Wheel bearing puller
#11
01-11-2019, 09:23 AM
Cruiser
Shem,
I have an '01 Road King, also with 3/4" bearings/axle, and I'm in the process of making a wheel change as well. I went on ebay and found a 'cheap' bearing puller, and while it worked for a while on some other wheels, it eventually developed a 'ridge' where the mandrill portion of the puller would no longer drive down in to the bit adapter. This is the puller type where you have a 'split-bit' that inserts into the bearing, then a long mandrill that has a 'knife-edge' end that you insert into the other side of the hub and into the 'split' area of the bit. You then drive the mandrill into the split, which expands it to the point where it's now wedged into the bearing....then you just pound on the mandrill until the bearing pops out. I bought this about a year ago and now after use on several wheels, the mandrill knife edge has developed this this ridge where it no longer drives down into the split. It just 'stops'....so now the thing doesn't expand properly. It came with about 6 different size bits, and seemed like a good deal for $35 or ...... and in reality it did save me the same $35 it probably would have cost me for just one bearing pull at my local HD dealer. But, in retrospect, the better puller is probably a better choice. And, I've not purchased that puller....which I found for all of $60 on ebay. My belief is that any time you 'pull' a bearing, or knock one out with some method or another.......replace it! As you said, new bearing are relatively inexpensive. I just purchased 4 of the 3/4" sealed bearing for all of $20 including shipping. With the older bearings that come apart by just removing a seal, you don't need to replace them each time as they receive no 'impact' from the puller device. But, again, for the cost of the new 'sealed' bearings, I'd go with them. The only 'rub' to this is making sure you retain proper spacing between the races such that the wheel goes back into the bike properly. So, you need to measure the width of the old bearing, as well as the inner bearing sleeve spacer. This is important! That 'inner' sleeve is where the bearing's inner race rides on the axle, and this controls the overall spacing of the bearings within the hub. If you end up with a bearing that is either wider or more narrow, you may have to adjust that inner sleeve spacer accordingly......or have a new one made (or purchased if available). These new sealed bearing come with pretty specific dimensional information; width, ID, and OD. So, if you have all that from your old bearing, then replacing them with sealed bearings is not so difficult. The worst part is getting the inner race out of the hub. As indicated, some guys simply take a welder and put a small weld-bead around the inside until they can bang on that from the other side with a long punch, drift pin, or even a big-*** screw driver. Once out, I'd definitely go with sealed bearings, and just make sure all my spacing was still proper. Hope this helps! Tom D.
I have an '01 Road King, also with 3/4" bearings/axle, and I'm in the process of making a wheel change as well. I went on ebay and found a 'cheap' bearing puller, and while it worked for a while on some other wheels, it eventually developed a 'ridge' where the mandrill portion of the puller would no longer drive down in to the bit adapter. This is the puller type where you have a 'split-bit' that inserts into the bearing, then a long mandrill that has a 'knife-edge' end that you insert into the other side of the hub and into the 'split' area of the bit. You then drive the mandrill into the split, which expands it to the point where it's now wedged into the bearing....then you just pound on the mandrill until the bearing pops out. I bought this about a year ago and now after use on several wheels, the mandrill knife edge has developed this this ridge where it no longer drives down into the split. It just 'stops'....so now the thing doesn't expand properly. It came with about 6 different size bits, and seemed like a good deal for $35 or ...... and in reality it did save me the same $35 it probably would have cost me for just one bearing pull at my local HD dealer. But, in retrospect, the better puller is probably a better choice. And, I've not purchased that puller....which I found for all of $60 on ebay. My belief is that any time you 'pull' a bearing, or knock one out with some method or another.......replace it! As you said, new bearing are relatively inexpensive. I just purchased 4 of the 3/4" sealed bearing for all of $20 including shipping. With the older bearings that come apart by just removing a seal, you don't need to replace them each time as they receive no 'impact' from the puller device. But, again, for the cost of the new 'sealed' bearings, I'd go with them. The only 'rub' to this is making sure you retain proper spacing between the races such that the wheel goes back into the bike properly. So, you need to measure the width of the old bearing, as well as the inner bearing sleeve spacer. This is important! That 'inner' sleeve is where the bearing's inner race rides on the axle, and this controls the overall spacing of the bearings within the hub. If you end up with a bearing that is either wider or more narrow, you may have to adjust that inner sleeve spacer accordingly......or have a new one made (or purchased if available). These new sealed bearing come with pretty specific dimensional information; width, ID, and OD. So, if you have all that from your old bearing, then replacing them with sealed bearings is not so difficult. The worst part is getting the inner race out of the hub. As indicated, some guys simply take a welder and put a small weld-bead around the inside until they can bang on that from the other side with a long punch, drift pin, or even a big-*** screw driver. Once out, I'd definitely go with sealed bearings, and just make sure all my spacing was still proper. Hope this helps! Tom D.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post