Coming back from DELMARVA on the "Easton to Denton turn off Power-Walkathon", I had trouble getting into neutral at times. wait -

The Clutch release lever was engaging the friction zone at different points. It has gotten worse, but only intermittently. At times a normal rev and it pops right in. But at other times, it's just hold in the damn clutch cause it's not realeasing. I have notice a significant drag at a stop at times. Move on and all can become ok.

Question is -- can the clutch friction material break up and cause the drag, or is it more likely the chain tensioner shoe breaking up?

53,500 miles, do my own maintenace since 40,000 miles.

Any ideas - other than get a new bike, better mechanic, or buy a Honda.



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From the sounds of it you have a broken spring plate. Usually you have to replace the friction plates, the steel plates, and the spring plate when this happens. If you have rode it like that a while it may have damaged the basket. I would recommend updating the clutch if the basket is bad. The newer clutch is way better. Good Luck.

Jason

 

Thanks,
I stopped by a Local HD in NORVA and got the 'We need to see your bike before we will look at it. 2 hours minimum to replace a clutch plus parts, and 4 hours to rebuild plus parts." I'll pull the Derby and let you know what I find. I may just learn to replace an upgrade clutch afterall.

Dave

 

Assuming you've gone thru the standard clutch adjustment procedure, I would bet you just have a warped steel plate or 2. Probably no damage to clutch basket but at those miles a plate replacement kit should be all that is necessary. Not rocket science, Good Luck!

 

I got a chance to check all the adjustments again and all are within the spec. The diaphram spring is intact, functioning and by all visable means not the source. I am going to open the release cover to check the release bearing and ramp operation. My guess is warped plates or the mid-steel spring plate on the EVO clutches.

I get a few pics when I get that far.

 

I'll ditto that suggestion, and the spring plate being the leading suspect. Been there, done that. The rivets that hold it together break and get caught up in the clutch plates, likely damaging one or more of them. At 65k I just replaced all the plates.

To the OP: When R&R'ing the clutch, don't replace the spring plate, but add three extra plates to the mix. Works fine and when I did it on my '96 RK I didn't miss the spring plate. Couldn't tell the difference, and eliminating it also eliminates it breaking apart again.

 

I have seen the 'Extra" Plate Kits.The stock kits have 8 and 6, plus the spring, and the others are 10 and 8? Now I know why.

Thanks to all.

I'll take pics

 

I just ordered a Milw BTwins Kevlar Kit with the Extra plates. I will put in it in November, along with pics. Anyone need to borrow a clutch spring release tool after i'm done, PM.

Price, one each

 

Got the BT Kevlar clutch kitand the pressure plate diaphragm spring tool in from an Iowa venor.

Now, I do really have a problem...
The spring, two steel plate must have come apart. I can see bright metal creeping out of the clutch package through the clutch shell.

I applied a little too much twist to the diaphragm spring release tool and snapped off the ring groove on the pressure plate that retains the adjustable release plate. .......The load of rivet material that would not allow the clutch to release also did not allow the aluminun pressure plate to move rearward enough to separate the shell retaining ring and seat enough to remove the retaining ring.

Diaphragm spring is back to full pressure and no way to take the clutch apart... except to completely remove the compensator sprocket and clutch package. Liva and learn... Also take out the loan...

 

Sounds like you need a new clutch basket. PM me.