So I have gotten further along with the new audio system install.. But now i am totally stumped. I have got 2 - Cerwin Vega B54s with 2 Biketronic LL. I have 8 Polk Audio speakers installed in all the normal places.

Since I am having issues I rewired all the power and ground directly, bypassing the fuses for testing. I have the Amp set to 4channel, and I have the remote wire connected and installed...... the Amp won't turn on. So I switch the Amp to "DC" and still the Amp won't turn on..... I turn it to "VOX" and it turns on! Only it sounds like crap and shuts off after 3-4 minutes..... I am just testing 1 amp at a time, I do have 2 amps. BTW .. both Amps react the same way when testing individually.

I am running out of ideas... any help is appreciated.

 

hard to tell from the pic, but do you have 2 wires going into the remote location on the amp or one in and one out? Similar amp install and I had the same issue; got the volt meter out and found out my remote wire was cold (my fault). Few minutes later I was back in business.

I'd put the inline fuse back and test your power, ground (to the battery is what most here recommend) with a volt meter then go from there.

I use the same color wire for power and ground like you are too with tape to note the ground. Make sure you don't have those switched maybe?

Just throwing out things, someone else will chime in and help you. It's really amazing the level of help provided here by these guys.

 

See the same thing EW is seeing with the remote. What's with the 2 wires?

T

 

My gut is telling me it has something to do with the remote. In the picture I do have both of the remote wires connected to the one Amp, just another troubleshooting thing. I don't have a voltage meter to test it, so I am going to buy one tomorrow.

But I am also thinking if have the Amp in the "DC" position shouldn't it simply turn on if it has power running to it?

 

Electricity generally scares the shix out of me so I stay away from it at all cost, so take this with a grain of salt. You only want one remote wire going into that amp.
I initially thought u were "jumping" the remote from one amp to the next, which is probably not a good idea either, but after ur comments and looking at your pic closer it almost certain that the 2 remote sources is causing some confusion for your amp.

T.

 

I concur!! Whatever you do, DO NOT keep turning the system on until you disconnect the two remote wires and find a SWITCHED 12v supply to turn the amps on/off. You can tie two wires to the switched 12v and run ONE wire to each remote input.

 

Amen Tes!!!
The source u r using is good! It's the same source used for the invisible antenna and is hot in acc or on. So about 6-8 inches down river from that light blue remote wire harness connection just cut the light blue wire and create a "Y" by butt connecting two remote supply wires used for your 2 different amps.

T.

 

^^^^do this!!

 

It doesn't matter how many wires are hooked to that remote. It's 1 - 12 volt system. All the remote is looking for is 12 volts. It doesn't make a difference if that 12 volts gets there on 1, 3, or 30 wires.

OP, make sure your battery is fully charged. Put the fusing back in line, it's there for protection. Check the voltage on the remote wire. Try swapping out the rca cables with new (at least different) set. Verify your voltage out of the LLs.

When running 2 amps or more sometimes an aftermarket head unit can't put out enough voltage on the remote wire for all the amps to turn on. You're tapped into a circuit that is fused at 15- 20 amps. Should be able to run a bunch of amps off that remote connection.

 

As I have stated, I am far from being a licensed electrician but there ain't a chance in hell that anyone is going to convince me that the wiring u currently have going the remote is correct.

One remote wire OP. This may not solve any of ur current problems but it will fix wiring that's just not correct.

Just saying!!!!

T.