We're LIVE -- These are my favorite components!
#131
01-11-2017, 11:36 AM
Road Master
Cutting Grill Holes for Tweeters
I'll be cutting holes in my speaker grills for the DD -T2 tweeter.
I know that most of you use a hole saw, which is okay, as long as the bit doesn't hang-up and you bugger up the edges of the hole in your grill.
I bought this adjustable hole saw at Sears more than 30 years ago. It's been used it to cut plastic, carbon fiber, fiberglass, aluminum, steel & stainless steel, all with the same cutting blade that came with it.
It's meant to be used on a drill press, operating at various RPM's, depending on the materials being cut.
It won't replace a hole saw for work in the field or in hard to reach areas but it can't be beat for cutting neat, clean, precision holes in a shop setting. Plus, you don't need dozens of hole saw bits laying around.
Adjustment starts at 1 3/4" diameter and goes up from there, so it should work perfectly for cutting the tweeter holes.
Anyway, just wanted to share.
I know that most of you use a hole saw, which is okay, as long as the bit doesn't hang-up and you bugger up the edges of the hole in your grill.
I bought this adjustable hole saw at Sears more than 30 years ago. It's been used it to cut plastic, carbon fiber, fiberglass, aluminum, steel & stainless steel, all with the same cutting blade that came with it.
It's meant to be used on a drill press, operating at various RPM's, depending on the materials being cut.
It won't replace a hole saw for work in the field or in hard to reach areas but it can't be beat for cutting neat, clean, precision holes in a shop setting. Plus, you don't need dozens of hole saw bits laying around.
Adjustment starts at 1 3/4" diameter and goes up from there, so it should work perfectly for cutting the tweeter holes.
Anyway, just wanted to share.
#132
01-11-2017, 07:30 PM
I'll be cutting holes in my speaker grills for the DD -T2 tweeter.
I know that most of you use a hole saw, which is okay, as long as the bit doesn't hang-up and you bugger up the edges of the hole in your grill.
I bought this adjustable hole saw at Sears more than 30 years ago. It's been used it to cut plastic, carbon fiber, fiberglass, aluminum, steel & stainless steel, all with the same cutting blade that came with it.
It's meant to be used on a drill press, operating at various RPM's, depending on the materials being cut.
It won't replace a hole saw for work in the field or in hard to reach areas but it can't be beat for cutting neat, clean, precision holes in a shop setting. Plus, you don't need dozens of hole saw bits laying around.
Adjustment starts at 1 3/4" diameter and goes up from there, so it should work perfectly for cutting the tweeter holes.
Anyway, just wanted to share.
I know that most of you use a hole saw, which is okay, as long as the bit doesn't hang-up and you bugger up the edges of the hole in your grill.
I bought this adjustable hole saw at Sears more than 30 years ago. It's been used it to cut plastic, carbon fiber, fiberglass, aluminum, steel & stainless steel, all with the same cutting blade that came with it.
It's meant to be used on a drill press, operating at various RPM's, depending on the materials being cut.
It won't replace a hole saw for work in the field or in hard to reach areas but it can't be beat for cutting neat, clean, precision holes in a shop setting. Plus, you don't need dozens of hole saw bits laying around.
Adjustment starts at 1 3/4" diameter and goes up from there, so it should work perfectly for cutting the tweeter holes.
Anyway, just wanted to share.
#134
01-17-2017, 09:48 PM
Road Master
I haven't made as much progress on my system as I'd hoped. Work keeps getting in the way.
Check out my other thread for a look at the DD-T2 tweeters in the Hogtune grills....with & without speaker cloth:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/audio...er-grills.html
Check out my other thread for a look at the DD-T2 tweeters in the Hogtune grills....with & without speaker cloth:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/audio...er-grills.html
#135
01-18-2017, 04:10 PM
Road Master
Installation in Progress
I got some time to work on my installation today, so I mocked-up how I wanted everything to be placed.
...Biketronics mounting plate - drilled & tapped holes to mount amp
...JL Audio MHX 280/4 amp - bridged to 2 channels (Rated at 140 watts RMS but actual tests show it to be around 185 watts)
...Digital Designs cross-overs for the T2 tweeters
...Biketronics BT355 line leveler
...Male to Male to Male RCA "Y" cable - to split the signal to the amp inputs (I still have a few sets for sale)
...Hogtunes speaker grills covered with speaker cloth
...Digital Designs T2 tweeters
The controls for the amp are on the bottom, so the cross-overs & line leveler are "temporarily" attached, until I get everything adjusted with a voltmeter.
Speaker installation is next on the agenda.
...Biketronics mounting plate - drilled & tapped holes to mount amp
...JL Audio MHX 280/4 amp - bridged to 2 channels (Rated at 140 watts RMS but actual tests show it to be around 185 watts)
...Digital Designs cross-overs for the T2 tweeters
...Biketronics BT355 line leveler
...Male to Male to Male RCA "Y" cable - to split the signal to the amp inputs (I still have a few sets for sale)
...Hogtunes speaker grills covered with speaker cloth
...Digital Designs T2 tweeters
The controls for the amp are on the bottom, so the cross-overs & line leveler are "temporarily" attached, until I get everything adjusted with a voltmeter.
Speaker installation is next on the agenda.
Last edited by WestTexasRanger; 01-18-2017 at 04:13 PM.
#138
01-18-2017, 04:50 PM
#139
01-18-2017, 04:55 PM
I got some time to work on my installation today, so I mocked-up how I wanted everything to be placed.
...Biketronics mounting plate - drilled & tapped holes to mount amp
...JL Audio MHX 280/4 amp - bridged to 2 channels (Rated at 140 watts RMS but actual tests show it to be around 185 watts)
...Digital Designs cross-overs for the T2 tweeters
...Biketronics BT355 line leveler
...Male to Male to Male RCA "Y" cable - to split the signal to the amp inputs (I still have a few sets for sale)
...Hogtunes speaker grills covered with speaker cloth
...Digital Designs T2 tweeters
The controls for the amp are on the bottom, so the cross-overs & line leveler are "temporarily" attached, until I get everything adjusted with a voltmeter.
Speaker installation is next on the agenda.
...Biketronics mounting plate - drilled & tapped holes to mount amp
...JL Audio MHX 280/4 amp - bridged to 2 channels (Rated at 140 watts RMS but actual tests show it to be around 185 watts)
...Digital Designs cross-overs for the T2 tweeters
...Biketronics BT355 line leveler
...Male to Male to Male RCA "Y" cable - to split the signal to the amp inputs (I still have a few sets for sale)
...Hogtunes speaker grills covered with speaker cloth
...Digital Designs T2 tweeters
The controls for the amp are on the bottom, so the cross-overs & line leveler are "temporarily" attached, until I get everything adjusted with a voltmeter.
Speaker installation is next on the agenda.
#140
01-18-2017, 05:00 PM
Road Master
When I installed the amp, I could've moved it even further back on the Biketronics plate, but I wanted to screw it down at all four mounting points. If I had used Industrial Velcro, I could've moved it back another 1/2" or so.
Also, there's a 1/2" clearance between the top of the amp and bottom of the fairing vent, so I think that adding another amp in front will still allow the slope of the front fairing to clear.
Disclaimer: I'm not where I can actually take measurements of the clearances, so the 1/2" I'm quoting is subject to verification, but should be fairly close.
The following users liked this post:
FrenchieM (09-21-2017)