Dyna Glide Models Super Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

'97-'08 Touring fender on a '13 Dyna

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 10-01-2014, 09:13 AM
RUBI-VET's Avatar
RUBI-VET
RUBI-VET is offline
Cruiser
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 125
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Default '97-'08 Touring fender on a '13 Dyna

Sorry for the noob tech question but any info will help.




I cannot find a stamped extended fender for my FLD and decided to look into another route by installing a older model touring fender onto the Dyna due to the strut width being less than a 1/4" off and manipulation of the struts would be little to none.


I looked into the "builder series fenders" but hey do not offer the length I am after.


So my question is as follows


will the profile of the curve on a touring fender match up to the profile of the '13 Dyna fender?
ie. overall shape, contour of the fender to the tire etc.


I am curious to know if the fender will allow me to run my existing pillion seat after drilling the holes in the proper location and have the rubber isolators contact the fender properly.


This is the factory rear fender which I want to extend to be below the lowest point of my exhaust system.


original setup, fender in line with the swing arm.

thanks for all the help in advance.
 
  #2  
Old 10-01-2014, 10:06 AM
blueangel73's Avatar
blueangel73
blueangel73 is offline
Elite HDF Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: South of Mordor
Posts: 3,947
Received 147 Likes on 122 Posts
Default

I am running an extended fender made by Klockwerks, the fender is made for the years you mentioned and is used when those years run the 180 tire kits. The fender is the same width as the stock Streetbob fender, which I understand is a little wider then the Switchback fender, but the strut width are the same on both bikes. Call them and as about the 180 kit fender made for the earlier touring bikes, they have discontinued the production of the fender, but they might have one sitting on the shelf of know a distributor that might have one. They come come with a 2" and a 6" stretch (I have the 2"), I believe they also offer one for the softails that has a 4" stretch. The fender did require a bit of hole filling and new hole drilling, but everything fit radius wise and worked out great. Also, they have an option for a smooth fender or the french plate pocket (I recomment if you can get the french pocket, also get their plate frame, you will be trimming a good amount of the plate down to fit it.)

I used vise clamps to position the fender on the struts and line it up to the two-up seat and then the solo, located the holes for the seats and fender mounts and drilled away.

Just for some info, the fender metal is thicker then the stock fender, so it is a bit more ridged when flexing out to the struts and the HD seat/fender bolts required a little modifing to make them fit the thicker material. For the seat bolts, I would recommend welding a nut to the inside of the fender for a clearner and easier install.



 

Last edited by blueangel73; 10-01-2014 at 10:11 AM.
  #3  
Old 10-01-2014, 12:10 PM
RUBI-VET's Avatar
RUBI-VET
RUBI-VET is offline
Cruiser
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 125
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Did you have to cut the fender to mount it under the seat between the frame rails?


I've been going back and forth with klockwerks and Native custom baggers about the 180mm kit today. glad to know its the same radius.
thanks
 
  #4  
Old 10-01-2014, 12:28 PM
blueangel73's Avatar
blueangel73
blueangel73 is offline
Elite HDF Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: South of Mordor
Posts: 3,947
Received 147 Likes on 122 Posts
Default

I didn't have to cut anything to fit per say, but because the fender doesn't have the ridge running down both sides of the fender like the stock one does, I (prematurely) took a ball ping to a section and knock it in some so it wouldn't hit the down tube under the seat. However, after a little fine tuning of the alignment, I noticed that it wasn't necessary and had the painter fill it when he prepped for paint.
 
  #5  
Old 10-01-2014, 12:30 PM
RUBI-VET's Avatar
RUBI-VET
RUBI-VET is offline
Cruiser
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 125
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

I'm trying to get a price quote from them now, no response yet


do you remember what the part number was?
I'm going to see if I can find it somewhere else.
 
  #6  
Old 10-01-2014, 12:32 PM
blueangel73's Avatar
blueangel73
blueangel73 is offline
Elite HDF Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: South of Mordor
Posts: 3,947
Received 147 Likes on 122 Posts
Default

The reason I recommend doing the alignment with the two-up is because it gives you the radius of the seat pan to line up with. Once you have the rear bolt location marked, do the same with the front seat. Also, make sure the seats are broken in, the seat pans on new seats have a tendency to need a little persuasive shaping when riding, at least my Mustang solo did.
 
  #7  
Old 10-01-2014, 12:36 PM
RUBI-VET's Avatar
RUBI-VET
RUBI-VET is offline
Cruiser
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 125
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by blueangel73
The reason I recommend doing the alignment with the two-up is because it gives you the radius of the seat pan to line up with. Once you have the rear bolt location marked, do the same with the front seat. Also, make sure the seats are broken in, the seat pans on new seats have a tendency to need a little persuasive shaping when riding, at least my Mustang solo did.


my mustang solo rear pillion doesn't seem to line up perfectly I have to persuade it a bit by pushing down to get it to fit and screw in. I may end up welding the lower notch since I wont be needing it.
 
  #8  
Old 10-01-2014, 01:12 PM
blueangel73's Avatar
blueangel73
blueangel73 is offline
Elite HDF Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: South of Mordor
Posts: 3,947
Received 147 Likes on 122 Posts
Default

I got the same issue with my Mustang solo seat, when I first installed it, it really needed to be pushed down cause the curve in the rear of the pan was crazy round and the seat seemed like it was a mile away from the fender nut, even on the stock fender. Now that I have had it on and off a bunch of times, the hole is around .5"-.75" away from the nut everytime I put it on, which is enough for me to install my bolt and push down a little with the t-handle allen and tighten it down. Don't know about the fit of the seat Mustang passenger seat, don't have one.

I have 2 two-up seats, one of them fits like a glove and the one from a Switchback has a gap between it and frame where the seat is, until I get another two-up seat, I won't know if it's the Switchback seat that is shaped different or the one I was using before the fender swap, both are Dyna seats.
 
  #9  
Old 10-01-2014, 01:27 PM
RUBI-VET's Avatar
RUBI-VET
RUBI-VET is offline
Cruiser
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Vermont
Posts: 125
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

I never noticed a gap on mine with the stock seat but I sold it to a guy with a wide glide and he had an issue getting it to sit between his passenger backrest due to the rear portion being wide.


I finally got ahold of Paul from Native custom baggers he said he has the rear fender 6" w/plate pocket in stock for $439


I can't seem to find the fender anywhere else due to kock werks not making them anymore.


Now I need to find a painter to match it to my big blue pearl and a set of FL extended bags.


Thanks for the help confirming the fitment issues I was concerned with.
 
  #10  
Old 10-01-2014, 01:34 PM
blueangel73's Avatar
blueangel73
blueangel73 is offline
Elite HDF Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: South of Mordor
Posts: 3,947
Received 147 Likes on 122 Posts
Default

here is the email to the contact i was dealling with at Klockwerks, usually about a day before response. makel@kustomcycles.com I don't remember the part number, but he seemed to know what I was talking about.

I also managed to talk him down to half price because it was a discontinued item, I had a hard time paying $500 for the fender and could justify the $250.

That +6" is going to look great, I wasn't sure how low it would be with my bike being lowered, but I am happy with the +2" I have.

Your going to have about 6-8 dime size holes to fill in and the large one where the electrical passes through (it's high up on the fender), then your going to have to create your own hole for that. It would be nice if the fender came blank and not with all the touring holes stamped out.

I am looking forward to seeing how your bike turns out.
 

Last edited by blueangel73; 10-01-2014 at 01:42 PM.


Quick Reply: '97-'08 Touring fender on a '13 Dyna



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:28 AM.