Installing Intiminators
#21
I don't understand why you would do that if you don't want to remove the fork tubes. You pump out the oil from the top. When I had the stock handlebars I had to take them off, but I switched to drag bars and now it's a 20 minute job. As long as you have the clearance to get the fork caps off, you don't need to take any thing else apart. With the motion pro, it will take the measurement from the middle the way it designed.
Use 10w amsoil fork oil for the 49mm forks and 5w if you have an older dyna. (pre 2006 I believe)
To each their own but I don't see any point in taking the forks off on a bike that only has around 5-10,000 miles or you need fork seals. Even Brian at ricor installs them with the forks on and it works and it's simple. You are also going to use a little less fork oil since the intimidators will take up some space or you can measure the oil with the intimidators in and use the amount specified in the manual. Just make sure the intimidators are sunk all the way to the bottom of the tubes and the forks are extended all the way. And yes, that is measurement is per tube. I had to buy a 35mm socket and got a long impact socket. I would reccomend the long one to get the fork caps started without the wrench..much easier to grab so you can push and turn at the same time.
Make sure you are using a good quality or modded jack for stability since you will be pushing on the front end to get the fork caps back on. Always better to have an extra person for that step.
A big plus to using the traxxion straight rate springs is they don't require near the preload of the stock springs and the fork caps go on real easy. Just be prepared to do some trial and error to get the sag right...if you don't, you won't get the awesome results.
Use 10w amsoil fork oil for the 49mm forks and 5w if you have an older dyna. (pre 2006 I believe)
To each their own but I don't see any point in taking the forks off on a bike that only has around 5-10,000 miles or you need fork seals. Even Brian at ricor installs them with the forks on and it works and it's simple. You are also going to use a little less fork oil since the intimidators will take up some space or you can measure the oil with the intimidators in and use the amount specified in the manual. Just make sure the intimidators are sunk all the way to the bottom of the tubes and the forks are extended all the way. And yes, that is measurement is per tube. I had to buy a 35mm socket and got a long impact socket. I would reccomend the long one to get the fork caps started without the wrench..much easier to grab so you can push and turn at the same time.
Make sure you are using a good quality or modded jack for stability since you will be pushing on the front end to get the fork caps back on. Always better to have an extra person for that step.
A big plus to using the traxxion straight rate springs is they don't require near the preload of the stock springs and the fork caps go on real easy. Just be prepared to do some trial and error to get the sag right...if you don't, you won't get the awesome results.
I'm going to look into the traxion springs but assuming they are the same length as stock and assuming I was happy with current sag then I should be able to get away with simply cutting the spacer to subtract the height of the intiminator's correct? Also should I plan to replace the o-rings under the caps?
Last edited by robbyville; 12-18-2014 at 03:34 PM.
#22
Will do thanks. I think monster was talking about taking off the front wheel which I assume is needed in order to compress the forks a few times once new oil is in to get air bubbles out? I was wondering if I could do the whole job without taking the wheel or the forks off.
I'm going to look into the traxion springs but assuming they are the same length as stock and assuming I was happy with current sag then I should be able to get away with simply cutting the spacer to subtract the height of the intiminator's correct? Also should I plan to replace the o-rings under the caps?
I'm going to look into the traxion springs but assuming they are the same length as stock and assuming I was happy with current sag then I should be able to get away with simply cutting the spacer to subtract the height of the intiminator's correct? Also should I plan to replace the o-rings under the caps?
#23
I'm really excited to do this mod this winter. I feel even if it rides just a little bit better than stock it's worth the effort to do this. I already ordered/received my Intiminators and Traxxion springs just waiting til after the holidays to order some Speed Merchant adjusters and a fxdl right fork slider then i'm Going In!
Last edited by tonebone_79; 12-18-2014 at 05:40 PM.
#24
I'm really excited to do this mod this winter. I feel even if it rides just a little bit better than stock it's worth the effort to do this. I already ordered/received my Intiminators and Traxxion springs just waiting til after the holidays to order some Speed Merchant adjusters and a fxdl right fork slider then i'm Going In!
Thanks Monster, rooti, and everyone for the most excellent feedback. I intend to document as best as possible from the viewpoint of someone who has never done this type of work before (other than bicycles)
#25
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#28
#30
Yea I wasn't saying to remove the tubes from the trees, just saying it is probably easier to remove the wheel and fender to pump the sliders. You might be able to pump them both at the same time with the wheel on but you may end up knocking the bike off the jack in the process. It's going to take a lot more effort to try and pick up the wheel and collapse both tubes... The orings are probably fine to reuse just inspect them. Also remember to loosen the top pinch bolt before trying to remove that top cap. If your going to measure your fluid from the top of the tube it needs to be taken with the ricors in, springs out and the sliders collapsed