I just installed gear drive cams and adjustable pushrods and there's alot of chatter in the top end. All rods were set initially to 20 flats over 0 lash. I'm pretty sure adjusting the rods after the fact will quiet the valve train, just looking to find out how this is done. If it has no detrimental effect on the operation, the noise isn't a big deal to me, just don't want to ruin anything. Thanks in advance.

 

Just curious how long you have ran the engine after install, I have heard it can take a minute or two to get those lifters pumped up and all the oil going back up to the top. I have even read where the noise did not get all the way better until riding for a few minutes.

What cams, lifters, and prs did you install?

When you adjusted the prs, you made certain that you were at TDC Compression, as opposed to TDC Exhaust?

 

Ah I just ran it for about 5 minutes, wasn't sure if the noise I was hearing was normal or not, and didn't wanna risk ruining something.

I installed S&S 510s with thier adjustable pushrods, stock lifters

When I installed the rods, I did watched for overlap on the front cylinder (which I was under the impression put the rear lifters on the cam's base circle) and installed the rears (adjusted each rod one at a time with lifter bleedout in between) then watched for overlap on the rear and installed the front cylinder rods the same way. Hopefully that is correct.

 

Although I find TDC Compression differently, your method is like the S&S video method and is fine. Sounds like you did it by the book, I know that a lot of people like to adjust their prs deeper to help with valve train noise. They will shoot for about .120" to .140" down vs .100" which is the middle of the lifter range(.200").

If you decide to go this route, I would go 4 full turns from zero lash(24 flats). As always you want to be certain that you are finding zero lash using you fingers - lightly feel the pr go tight as you lengthen the pr then shorten the pr and lengthen again to double check that you are right at zero lash. Now after you do this you can get the wrenches out to adjust/leghten the pr 4 full turns.

But if you are feeling good with what you got it may take some higher rpms to get all the oil back where it belongs.

You should try to listen carefully to the rear and front top ends separately to see if there is one or the other that does not sound right.

 

when you adjust pushrods you have to bleed down the lifters. I'm guessing that is what you are hearing. It took my bike around 10 mins for the lifters to pump back up and quite down ALOT.

 

Alright thanks for the break down. I did follow that video, and that being said, I should be able to put a few miles on to see if it settles down before I re-adjust them correct? Yeah Jmummery I bled the lifters (you actually helped me when I was bleeding them on the thread I posted) I wasn't sure how long it took for them to fill back with oil or if the chattering was valves smashing into the heads.

 

When you went gear drive did you check runout? It's very important that your in spec or things may run a bit louder and could over time begin some damage.

 

Yup I checked run out and it was within spec

 

Might then just be a tweak in your rod adjustment or pulling the trigger on the S&S lifters. Like mentioned above try adjusting them and see how it goes....can't go wrong w/ S&S stuff.

 

When you installed your lifters, did you pay attention to the orientation of the oil feed holes in the lifter bodies? Not sure how much difference that it makes, but the FSM says that they are supposed to face inboard.