Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
this is acceptable IF you are using solid core wire not stranded...
below is from IPC-WHMA-A-620 Requirements and Acceptance for Cable and Wire Harness Assemblies.
single stranded wire
multiple stranded wire
just make sure to shrink wrap the joints in both situations and that there is no wire poking out of the shrink tube.
class 3 is what we use at work, and if it is acceptable for black boxes for drones, bradley tanks, and NASA then i think a harley will be just fine!!
Class 1 – General Electronic Products
Includes products suitable for applications where the major requirement is the function of the completed assembly.
Class 2 – Dedicated Service Electronic Products
Includes products where continued performance and extended life is required, and for which uninterrupted service is desired but not critical. Typically, the end-use environment would not cause failures.
Class 3 – High Performance Electronic Products
Includes products where continued performance or performance-on-demand is critical, equipment downtime can- not be tolerated, end-use environment may be uncommonly harsh, and the equipment must function when required, such as life support systems and other critical systems.
this is acceptable IF you are using solid core wire not stranded...
below is from IPC-WHMA-A-620 Requirements and Acceptance for Cable and Wire Harness Assemblies.
single stranded wire
multiple stranded wire
just make sure to shrink wrap the joints in both situations and that there is no wire poking out of the shrink tube.
class 3 is what we use at work, and if it is acceptable for black boxes for drones, bradley tanks, and NASA then i think a harley will be just fine!!
Class 1 – General Electronic Products
Includes products suitable for applications where the major requirement is the function of the completed assembly.
Class 2 – Dedicated Service Electronic Products
Includes products where continued performance and extended life is required, and for which uninterrupted service is desired but not critical. Typically, the end-use environment would not cause failures.
Class 3 – High Performance Electronic Products
Includes products where continued performance or performance-on-demand is critical, equipment downtime can- not be tolerated, end-use environment may be uncommonly harsh, and the equipment must function when required, such as life support systems and other critical systems.
Thanks Stres, may need a Skype session with you if I screw up lol! I may get a chance to do this today if work schedule allows. One day of the reasons I like this forum, really do learn new things all the time despite the much lighter wallet!
Last edited by robbyville; 03-31-2015 at 06:07 AM.
it helps the solder flow more evenly and it makes every solder job much easier. depending on what brand of solder you purchased it might have flux in the solder itself but these pens are the bees knees i won't solder anything without it anymore. NO-clean is great for wires as it is non-corrosive and you do not have to clean up the residue as the name suggests. the standard that i posted earlier states that only no clean is to be used on wire assemblies. the other option of flux is water soluble and it is corrosive in nature and can after time corrode your wires and shall never be used on wire assemblies due to even if you clean it off it weeps under the insulation and can cause issues.
as far as you using 20awg vs 18awg wire i would try to use the exact same size as the diameter is directly related to its ability to carry current (amps) and voltage which are both directly related to the wires ability to withstand heat. you could always use 2 wires in parallel since you only have the 20awg. more wire=more resistance but since you are only going a couple of inches you should be fine. it is better to use a larger diameter wire over short splices than a smaller wire. remember do it right the first time especially if it is your brake turn run lights it just might save your life
good luck bud. PM me or post in here if you have any other questions i am fully certified in soldering and rework/repair for Military standard applications. it just takes practice like anything.
Wow that's great thanks Stres. Maybe I need to return the stuff I bought then. So with this pen do you heat the wire with the iron and the felt style tip dispenses the flux or do you heat the tip of the pen?
Any chance you know what guage wire your turn signals are? I haven't opened the package yet of my 20 so I can simply return it. But every search I do comes up with a different answer and I can't tell by looking at the wire. Matt's is 18 though, I would think that this would be the standard for all the bikes.
It will cost a few $ but a street glide has the same bulb sockets ( stop,tail,turn) by has longer wires. This will save any solder connections and just take the Tyco connector apart and repin the length or keep the slack. I did it to both mine when I put on my docking hardware for any later relocation I am covered and its still is factory w/o any splices.
I use these connectors. Easy to use, strong, never failed yet, and reliably waterproof (so no corrosion etc). It has heat shrink, solder and hot-melt glue all ready-to-go in the one unit. The white ones should be the right size for your job.
Another tip: stabilise your wires in position on your work surface with blu-tack (or whatever USAmericans call that blobby stuff for sticking posters to walls). An easy way to keep everything steady while soldering.
So with these connectors do you just "wrap" or "lap" the wires together and then heat the connecor so that it seals the connection? Sounds really easy, any reason to use a solder iron if these things work?
Wow that's great thanks Stres. Maybe I need to return the stuff I bought then. So with this pen do you heat the wire with the iron and the felt style tip dispenses the flux or do you heat the tip of the pen?
Any chance you know what guage wire your turn signals are? I haven't opened the package yet of my 20 so I can simply return it. But every search I do comes up with a different answer and I can't tell by looking at the wire. Matt's is 18 though, I would think that this would be the standard for all the bikes.
to use the flux, you put the liquid on the wire before you "tin'' or solder the joint it helps the solder flow into the strands better.
so to simplify for ease of use
1. apply flux to un-soldered wires
2. coat the tip of the soldering iron with solder
3. apply solder to fluxed wires individually
4. solder wires together.
the idea is to "tin" the wires first with solder so when you do the lap joint all you need to do is add a small amount of solder to make it all flow and create the joint (more solder is NOT better) you should see a clean solder joint with discernible strands behind the solder, yet completely coated (this is target but a little extra is acceptable). remember to put the shrink tube on the wire first so you can slide it over and shrink it after the solder is cool. i for get this all the time...
i haven't checked my bike yet, but when i get home i can see what it could be the problem is some wires have thicker insulation and can look to be larger gauge than it really is but it shouldn't take me long ill try to do that tonight if i don't forget unless someone else chimes in.
Jdisme did the same thing and he's pretty sure that the wires are 18g. Most of the threads I've looked at seem to indicate that as a high probability as well. I'm going to grab the wire on my way out to do some work errands and bring it back. It was a radio shack about 20 miles from me but I don't think they had any 18 I'll check though and order if I have to.
I do really like those cool connectors davdoodles showed, but I'm also interested in learning to solder and I did pay a whole $10 for the iron
So with these connectors do you just "wrap" or "lap" the wires together and then heat the connecor so that it seals the connection? Sounds really easy, any reason to use a solder iron if these things work?
These things work great with no soldering iron (only heat gun) the only issue that i have with them is i cannot see the solder connection clearly so i am a little hesitant. but i see no reason why they wouldn't work for our application.
03-31-2015, 01:42 AM
