I'll take a full side pic today before I block up the bike to do the rear wheel. In addition to the wheel, I'll do the inside area of the rear rotor with high temp black to loose that shiny part and make it look more like the floaters in the front.

 

Outstanding.

Now you get to work on slowing your missile down.

 

Can you point me to that deal? I actually like the stock LR wheels black/silver scheme.

 

That really does look great. How did you paint? Did you pull the tire or mask around it? And... How the hell did you get the sticker so perfectly aligned? Amazing job. Now sometimes I hate that I'm so observant, but in a prior pic you have wrap on your pipes with gold wheels, yet on the shot showing the newly painted wheel on the bike, no wrap. Did you decide against the wrap and pull it?

 

I'm wondering if you pulled the top (or bottom) bolts of the shocks if the rear wheel would drop (or lift) enough that you could clear the muffler w/o removing it?

And sorry for the ridiculous three round burst of posts...

 

Mchad, I got the part numbers for the OEM LR wheels from my local dealer then priced them at Boardtracker HD, a discount dealer. The pair were $825. Yes I masked off the tire using flexible pin stripe tape around the edge of the rim, then 1 inch mask, then 2 inch. Taped off the rotor mount areas too. As for applying the tape, I put the wheel on my work bench using a gas funnel in the center so I could rotate the wheel and apply the tape evenly using the reflection of the shop light in the same spot as a guide as I rotated it. Good idea about dropping the shock, gotta do that anyway so just maybe the axel may clear the muffler.

 

It looks great, Gunny! HD should have consulted with you on the styling of the S Now it looks right...

 

Good job. I particularly like the visual reference trick for the stripe application. The paint is rattle-can? Regarding the bead/lip of the wheel - did you do anything special to help prevent chipping or peeling at the hard edge of the paint line? Did you sand and prime? (In case my questions aren't obvious enough, my wheels need a change as well - thinking of all alternatives)

Also note re: getting the wheel off. If dropping doesn't work, though I bet it would, you may be able to raise it up over the pipe - depending on whichever is a shorter distance. Also, if going up is close, but you need a little more, the fender comes off with 4 bolts and may give you that extra inch...

 

The torque spec I gave you was for the front rotor: 16 - 24 ft-lbs.

The rear according to the SM is 30 - 45 ft-lbs.

That earlier torque I posted for the pulley was from memory for my '03 Wide Glide. For this '13's pulley the SM calls for an initial torque of 60 ft-lbs; the pulley bolts are backed off 180° then a final torque of 77 - 83 ft-lbs.

When I replace my pulley bolts I'm using chrome bolts and the updated instructions included for them calls for an initial torque of 25 ft-lbs then a 60° rotation of the bolt; I do know getting that 60° rotation ends up at more than 83 ft-lbs

 

Front wheel done, rear being done now. Rear done and rear rotor center painted black with Eastwood High Temp