Shift linkage weight affect shift feel?
#1
Shift linkage weight affect shift feel?
I'm looking to make or buy a new shift linkage as I don't particularly like the style of my current one. It's a nice piece; chromed billet with heim joints. I just want something simple to kinda disappear but still function beautifully.
ANYway... Has anybody experienced a difference in shift feel between a heavy steel linkage and a light aluminum one?
I'm guessing it isn't noticeable, but I figured I'd ask.
I'd rather shed weight but if a heavy shifter feels better (like in some cars)...what's a few ounces for a good feeling?
ANYway... Has anybody experienced a difference in shift feel between a heavy steel linkage and a light aluminum one?
I'm guessing it isn't noticeable, but I figured I'd ask.
I'd rather shed weight but if a heavy shifter feels better (like in some cars)...what's a few ounces for a good feeling?
#2
I much prefer the heavier shift linkage with heim joints; I've got an extended heavy flame billet shift rod with heim joints on the Wide Glide. I preload the shift peg for both upshifts and rev-matched downshifts; with the heavier linkage I can feel exactly what I'm doing and how much pressure I've got on the peg; with light hardware I don't have the same feel...
#3
While i've not lightened the shift rod, I've lightened the shift lever and noticed a difference. I changed a stock bagger chrome plated steel shift lever to a home made aluminum / Delrin / rubber band one and notice the shifting was lighter / maybe a little quicker.. You could probably also go to a lighter ball end system.. Possibly use a 5/16 2024 aluminum rod with SS ballends..
#4
#5
That's a really nice piece, Bwoltz. I don't have the equipment to machine something like that, but it's near perfect. All function. I might add some nice big fillets for a bit of form and hard anodoze black but it's sure nice! I currently have the HD slotted billet lever up front. I haven't weighed it, but it's pretty light. Maybe a bit flashy, but speed holes are classic.
#6
While i've not lightened the shift rod, I've lightened the shift lever and noticed a difference. I changed a stock bagger chrome plated steel shift lever to a home made aluminum / Delrin / rubber band one and notice the shifting was lighter / maybe a little quicker.. You could probably also go to a lighter ball end system.. Possibly use a 5/16 2024 aluminum rod with SS ballends..
Super nice work, I really like it a lot!
#7
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#8
That's a really nice piece, Bwoltz. I don't have the equipment to machine something like that, but it's near perfect. All function. I might add some nice big fillets for a bit of form and hard anodoze black but it's sure nice! I currently have the HD slotted billet lever up front. I haven't weighed it, but it's pretty light. Maybe a bit flashy, but speed holes are classic.
I like lightening holes also but not really any place to add them on this lever.. When I made caliper brackets for the front forks on my bobber, I added a number of holes to the brackets.
#9
I replaced my stock shifter rod to a chromed one with Heim joints. I kind of doubt it's the weight that makes it work better, probably just because it's a lot smoother.
#10
Good question, OP.
I started making shift linkages a couple of years ago, first on my '14 Limited. That first one simply used the stock (steel) rod, with a little bit of extra thread cut to fit the heim joints without any changes to working length from stock.
That first attempt worked very well, and tightened up the shifting significantly.
Then this last fall, I picked up a friend's Street Bob and went to work on that one in similar fashion. That bike had different ends on the stock shift linkage rod that made re-using it a non-option. It was cheap enough to just buy some 5/16" aluminum rod and heim joints and go from there. The picture below is of that particular one.
Well, since I had enough stock to make another one, I decided to replace the one on my Limited with an aluminum one, because the diameter of the aluminum rod made for better threads than the steel one had.
I didn't think that there would be any difference in shifting feel, since the first (steel) modified one was already so good. I was surprised though. There really is a difference in feel...tighter yet, crisper, and more positive.
I don't know if it's the weight loss or the differences in stiffness/metallurgy, or whatever, but it did surprise me. And since the only material difference between the two is the change from steel to aluminum, there are no other variables in play with this change.
All the best,
Shane
I started making shift linkages a couple of years ago, first on my '14 Limited. That first one simply used the stock (steel) rod, with a little bit of extra thread cut to fit the heim joints without any changes to working length from stock.
That first attempt worked very well, and tightened up the shifting significantly.
Then this last fall, I picked up a friend's Street Bob and went to work on that one in similar fashion. That bike had different ends on the stock shift linkage rod that made re-using it a non-option. It was cheap enough to just buy some 5/16" aluminum rod and heim joints and go from there. The picture below is of that particular one.
Well, since I had enough stock to make another one, I decided to replace the one on my Limited with an aluminum one, because the diameter of the aluminum rod made for better threads than the steel one had.
I didn't think that there would be any difference in shifting feel, since the first (steel) modified one was already so good. I was surprised though. There really is a difference in feel...tighter yet, crisper, and more positive.
I don't know if it's the weight loss or the differences in stiffness/metallurgy, or whatever, but it did surprise me. And since the only material difference between the two is the change from steel to aluminum, there are no other variables in play with this change.
All the best,
Shane