Low Rider S - Battery Trouble?
#1
Low Rider S - Battery Trouble?
Any FXDLS owners experienced battery trouble yet? I went out to the bike after about a month of no riding (work travel, holidays, **** happens, etc) and the battery was completely dead. No lights, no whirr as the electrical system primes, etc...just a rock (no I didn't leave the lights on).
So I've had it on the trickle charger since Friday night and the light has never gone from solid orange (charging) to flashing green (80%) or solid green, which tells me it isn't able to take a full charge anymore.
I'll take it off the charger tonight and let it sit all day tomorrow and see what it does tomorrow evening. If it hard starts or gives me any lip I'm probably just going to put a Deka ETX20L on order (if these use the same batteries as every other Dyna). I don't have a battery tester and I'm not gonna blow money on one when these batteries are already so fickle by nature.
Anyway just wanted to see if anyone else has had an issue like this.
So I've had it on the trickle charger since Friday night and the light has never gone from solid orange (charging) to flashing green (80%) or solid green, which tells me it isn't able to take a full charge anymore.
I'll take it off the charger tonight and let it sit all day tomorrow and see what it does tomorrow evening. If it hard starts or gives me any lip I'm probably just going to put a Deka ETX20L on order (if these use the same batteries as every other Dyna). I don't have a battery tester and I'm not gonna blow money on one when these batteries are already so fickle by nature.
Anyway just wanted to see if anyone else has had an issue like this.
#2
The following users liked this post:
rockon (01-19-2017)
#3
Agree with TriGeezer, sounds like the battery is gone. My experiences with the HD/Deka battery has been hit and miss; my last Deka lasted 15 months. With the S you've got added electronics draining the battery as it sits; there have been a few posts in both the Dyna and Softail forums about the S models having some battery problems if the bike was left to sit for a time.
With the added battery drain, if you have the ability, setting up your battery with a pigtail and keeping your battery on a Battery Tender when the bike isn't being ridden would be a good idea.
The best rated AGM battery is Yuasa; I gave up on the Deka and went to the Yuasa GYZ20HL. The GYZ20HL is USA made and a direct replacement for the #65989-97. It will fit in the battery box correctly and is rated at 310 CCA and 20 Ah. The Deka ETX20L is rated at 310 CCA but 17.5 Ah.
Phat Performance will typically have the best pricing on the GYZ batteries: http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/.../yuasa-gyz.htm
With these bigger inch engines demanding more from the battery on a cold start, I upgrading the OEM 6 gauge battery cables to Terry Components 4 gauge battery cables to lower voltage drop on start up http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/.../2113-0269.htm
With the added battery drain, if you have the ability, setting up your battery with a pigtail and keeping your battery on a Battery Tender when the bike isn't being ridden would be a good idea.
The best rated AGM battery is Yuasa; I gave up on the Deka and went to the Yuasa GYZ20HL. The GYZ20HL is USA made and a direct replacement for the #65989-97. It will fit in the battery box correctly and is rated at 310 CCA and 20 Ah. The Deka ETX20L is rated at 310 CCA but 17.5 Ah.
Phat Performance will typically have the best pricing on the GYZ batteries: http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/.../yuasa-gyz.htm
With these bigger inch engines demanding more from the battery on a cold start, I upgrading the OEM 6 gauge battery cables to Terry Components 4 gauge battery cables to lower voltage drop on start up http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/.../2113-0269.htm
The following 3 users liked this post by TinCupChalice:
#4
I've got a 16 LRS with a 117 and have had some hard starts. Checked and the ACRs are on. Had battery tested at 2 different dealers and they stated battery was good at 420 CCAs. Dealer told me that battery is under warranty and would be replaced for free if it was bad. I would recommend checking with the dealer just to save some money unless you want to just purchase your own. I try to keep it on a tender every few days so we will see how it goes. I usually use battery mart big crank batteries which I have had really good luck with.
The following 2 users liked this post by rlmharley:
aaron___92 (01-25-2017),
rockon (01-19-2017)
#5
Agree with TriGeezer, sounds like the battery is gone. My experiences with the HD/Deka battery has been hit and miss; my last Deka lasted 15 months. With the S you've got added electronics draining the battery as it sits; there have been a few posts in both the Dyna and Softail forums about the S models having some battery problems if the bike was left to sit for a time.
With the added battery drain, if you have the ability, setting up your battery with a pigtail and keeping your battery on a Battery Tender when the bike isn't being ridden would be a good idea.
The best rated AGM battery is Yuasa; I gave up on the Deka and went to the Yuasa GYZ20HL. The GYZ20HL is USA made and a direct replacement for the #65989-97. It will fit in the battery box correctly and is rated at 310 CCA and 20 Ah. The Deka ETX20L is rated at 310 CCA but 17.5 Ah.
Phat Performance will typically have the best pricing on the GYZ batteries: http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/.../yuasa-gyz.htm
With these bigger inch engines demanding more from the battery on a cold start, I upgrading the OEM 6 gauge battery cables to Terry Components 4 gauge battery cables to lower voltage drop on start up http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/.../2113-0269.htm
With the added battery drain, if you have the ability, setting up your battery with a pigtail and keeping your battery on a Battery Tender when the bike isn't being ridden would be a good idea.
The best rated AGM battery is Yuasa; I gave up on the Deka and went to the Yuasa GYZ20HL. The GYZ20HL is USA made and a direct replacement for the #65989-97. It will fit in the battery box correctly and is rated at 310 CCA and 20 Ah. The Deka ETX20L is rated at 310 CCA but 17.5 Ah.
Phat Performance will typically have the best pricing on the GYZ batteries: http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/.../yuasa-gyz.htm
With these bigger inch engines demanding more from the battery on a cold start, I upgrading the OEM 6 gauge battery cables to Terry Components 4 gauge battery cables to lower voltage drop on start up http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/.../2113-0269.htm
I've got a 16 LRS with a 117 and have had some hard starts. Checked and the ACRs are on. Had battery tested at 2 different dealers and they stated battery was good at 420 CCAs. Dealer told me that battery is under warranty and would be replaced for free if it was bad. I would recommend checking with the dealer just to save some money unless you want to just purchase your own. I try to keep it on a tender every few days so we will see how it goes. I usually use battery mart big crank batteries which I have had really good luck with.
Thanks again for the tips all.
#6
The following users liked this post:
rockon (01-20-2017)
#7
Interestingly enough; my GYZ20HL was new manufacture and fresh in the pipeline when I got it; they'd changed the labeling on the battery to 320 CCA. Upgrades? I dunno, but between the heavier gauge battery cables and the Yuasa battery it spins up this 103" faster than I've ever heard...
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#8
Yep, 320 CCA; I'm pulling out the battery for some work I'm doing on the bike tomorrow; I'll take an image of the new labeling and post it in this thread
#9
Really? Another thread sniveling about the battery?
Get a load of the short version;
"I don't ride my motorcycle!! My battery doesn't last forever un-attended,, I'm sad!! The battery they gave me must be bad!!"
"Instead of charging my battery and riding my bike,, I tried the way that's the least amount of work and care and that still didn't work!!"
"I don't want to be responsible!"
"Please tell me how to place blame on others and buy thing's that makes it easy"
Get a load of the short version;
"I don't ride my motorcycle!! My battery doesn't last forever un-attended,, I'm sad!! The battery they gave me must be bad!!"
"Instead of charging my battery and riding my bike,, I tried the way that's the least amount of work and care and that still didn't work!!"
"I don't want to be responsible!"
"Please tell me how to place blame on others and buy thing's that makes it easy"
#10
H-D batteries are warranted for 12 months from in service date. 100% no prorating. However in the past they were a full 24 months and the replacement 12 months.
Now 12 months and the replacement 6 months. I had a 10 Superglide go just at 18 months and got the new under warranty. I think 12 and up went to 12 months.
That is the only battery problem in 27 bikes and 15 years. All mine are on tenders until the ride and plugged in on return.
I get an average of 9 years out of a AGM battery.
And yes the ABS, Security and ACM eat current 24/7. Smart folks use a $20 tender. It is just good maintenance.
Now 12 months and the replacement 6 months. I had a 10 Superglide go just at 18 months and got the new under warranty. I think 12 and up went to 12 months.
That is the only battery problem in 27 bikes and 15 years. All mine are on tenders until the ride and plugged in on return.
I get an average of 9 years out of a AGM battery.
And yes the ABS, Security and ACM eat current 24/7. Smart folks use a $20 tender. It is just good maintenance.