Hey all,

Ive been looking around the forum for solutions to my problems without any luck so far, hopefully someone out there can help. This weekend i set out to swap my stock bars out to a nightrain dragbar with 6" risers. Before satrting the project i ordered stock nightrain cables and brakelines, figuring that my setup would be very close to the nightrain height/position, when i was finished. One thing i found is that the nightrain clutch cable is very short......it reaches, but just makes it. i had to adjust the clutch through the derby cover as described in the service manual to get the necessary slack in the cable required. Everthing is set to spec on the clutch cable but when i put it into gear and pull in the clutch it wont engauge, the bike stays in gear. So I just ordered a new clutch cable thats 3" over a stock nightrains length and im hoping that it cures this prob? Any ideas?
Secondly, i lifted the tank up to route the throttle and idle cables underneath it. When doing so the fuel line going from the tank to the T.B. popped off and had to be reconnected. When i tried to start i get nothing...no fuel pump priming...nothing. I also have no blinkers, so i thought it might be the TSM/bank angle sensor needing a reset. The manual said to cycle the key off/on/off to reset the bank angle sensor....NO LUCK AAARG. please let me know whats up if anyones run into this before.

PS. normally id be alot more irrated about something like this but the bike looks awesome as **** and i wont be taking her out for atlease 3 more months, so im not losing riding time at least....I hope to post some pics soon of my new look!

 

You've not been in the tank? Removing the instrument console?
The fuel pump and fuel pump sender connector is inside the tank.
The connector to the intank pump is small and easy to overlook when reconnecting the instrument.

Is the fuel pump fuse alright? Do you have 12 V on one side of the fuse holder when "run" is on?
The pump is feed directly from the fuse (through the system relay) when you push the "run" switch.

/Dan B

 

This is why I don't work on my bike...I always end up with extra parts when I take something apart and put it back together again. I wish I could, but I'm certain that if I tried to do what you're doing, I'd be in much worse shape than you. Good luck...Sorry I can't help.

Todd

 

When you put the switch housings on the new handlebars, were you very careful not to get any wires pinched between the housings and the handlebars? If you got the one to the starter button pinched, it might be shorting out and causing the problem. Check the fuses and if the one for the start circuit is blown, check those wires. (Don't ask how I know this can happen.)

 

ill look into it asap. Also the instrument cluster is showing the little red security key icon when i turn the key onto the "on" position.

Thanks

 

well, as an update, i found that i had a blown ignition fuse, now i have to figure out what caused it to blow...probably as rh8234 suggested a pinched wire or something, because there was never anything to arc when doing the handlebar swap. also i took off the clutch cable i had from an 06 nightrain and added one from a 9? fxlr (aprox 4" longer than the night train one). This length is PERFECT if anyone is adding a drag bar to their dynas w/ a 6" riser. BUT after installing it, double and triple checking the ***** and mechanism in the tranny cover, adjusting the clutch and then adjusting the slack in the cable the clutch still wont engage. Ive been trying to adjust everything to get the max ammount of travel in the cable to maximize the throw of the pushrod on the clutch, but something still isnt right here. any ideas will be tested and greatly appreciated. Taking it to the dealer isnt one ill consider thou...just too damn proud to let them know i messed around with my 2 week old bike and now it wont even move lol.

 

here's the line from your original post that concerns me:
"i had to adjust the clutch through the derby cover as described in the service manual to get the necessary slack in the cable required"
If the bike is only 2 weeks old, I'd have to think the clutch was adjusted pretty close to right to start with. I'd look really close at the adjustment procedure in the manual and try to undo what you did the first time.

 

Yep What he said

 

i changed the cable to a much different length and had to adjust the clutch to get the necessary slack in the cable. The clutch wouldnt engauge before i adjusted the clutch either

 

I would think that if the clutch was properly adjusted to begin with, and you simply were changing the cable length, you shouldn't need to adjust anything except the cable adjuster???? Could be wrong I suppose???

As far as that blown fuse is, look under the right side switch housing. It is easy to smash a wire between the housing and the handlebar. I did it and had to solder and heat-shrink it back together.