Well, i recon i didnt need it lol, i was wondering what all the hoopla was about and tried it to see if it did anything, guess i was mis understanding.

 

I installed the third washer on top and bottom. I notice less overall vibes during town driving around 40mph but not much difference in 55 to 70 mph highway riding. I think what most are experiencing is a CHANGE in where and when the vibrations start and stop. I also notice that when you put three washers in you move the center of the mount back towards the motor. So instead of the mount being pulled to the frame you push it backwards a distance. I think IMHO your not getting much difference with or without the shims but instead changing the sweet spots for the vibrations. It seems better to me and a bit more comfy in town riding but on faster speeds its about the same. Doesn't hurt to try it but I know results will vary per rider. I like mine the way it is now with the three washers and will try to get a better feel for what differences I experience. I'm going to take it to the dealer....after shim removal of course... and see if they'll replace the mounts.

 

the gap shoulden`t be there if motormounts are good and intacked

 

I'm not sure how you come to that conclusion. Mine had the gap when the bike was new.

To me it looks like the bow-shaped piece in front of the gap that you bolt through might act as a tension piece as you tighten the bolts. This then pulls the engine slightly forward against the other mounts so that all the mounts are sprung. Removing this tension might reduce the vibration passed from the engine to the frame because it won't be as tightly coupled. However I'm not 100% sure that's a good thing because the damping works both ways, you might not be passing so much on to the frame but is it at the expense of the engine rattling about more?

 

interesting theory there jarhead08; be great if someone would take a full set of measurements even static with bike running - be nice if HD would do this in their R/D and engr dept with vibration sensors!

this is what i did (06 DWG EXCESSIVE vibes 55+mph): bike on kickstand and running, looked at idle vibes of skinny 21" front laced wheel and handlebars (even video'd it) - wish i had a tach; then did the gap test, yep about 2 washer worth, installed 2 per bolt; bike idle on kickstand, front laced 21" wheel not nearly as shaky as well as the handlebars; took it for a ride and was AMAZED at this forum fix (i thought was BS) smoothed out this DWG, it rode nearly as smooth as my '95 DWG evo i had yrs ago.

again, wish i had a tach: recently i noticed that there is a vib RPM shake watching my back brake pedal, again on kickstand bike running and twisting the throttle from idle to 3K+ or so. that pedal will rock and roll at some RPM and smooth out on either side of it...and your theory may come in to play - wish i had time to test it and monitor the RPMs to vib point. (last yr when i did the mod i didn't look at the brake pedal, so i dont' know the diff)

my next thing to do is, hook my laptop and power commander V (5) software up and watch the RPMs to find that shake RPM, just for curiosity! (my bike still rides good.)

maybe one day i can load that before and aft video of my bike at idle in my garage, pre 'forum mod' and post 'forum magic shim mod' on here for y'all. i WAS a skeptic, but it worked for me! BUT this major vib improvement works for bikes with excessive vibes AND show a 'gap' when front MM bolts are loosened and the engine pulls away from the frame - you also have to make sure your bike is level and at rest and you haven't just jacked the engine and bike up to create a gap! if the engine pulls away from the frame, this is for you, if it does not pull away or gap, it is not and you probably didn't have excessive vibes either.

even my MM bolt alignment did not change, it just pulled straight back away from the frame. if your aligment bolt to frame changes, i would suggest you, start over and make sure you have only jacked your bike/engine up to 'level' before you loosen the front MM bolts.

i think the guy at the factory that set my bike up, just torqu'd the MM bolts down and did NOT do a full bike alignment adn just bottomed out my front MM and i had a rigid mount bike when he got through (like the evo softails)...the front MM was not 'isolating' as it should and was designed.

i also noticed the engine rocked more inside the frame of the bike at idle and indicated to me the iso MMs were working as designed aft the shim mod. that puppy should dance in that frame at idle and not shake the bike and mirrors like the old evo softails!

 

Anyone ever asked the MoCo what they thought of this shimming business?

 

I send my DVD of the before/aft shimming with a letter discribing it and what i thought they were doing in the Factory and a link to the original shimming thread; i even suggested to them to modify the final check off to look for extra vibs at idle...I got a nice thank you card back from his secretary and note saying "it (DVD) would go to the 'appropriate' area."

Every HD shop i visit when traveling i make a point to query the service dept on my orig complaint to see what there take on it is. They usually say they don't know of a problem...some will admit to some vibes in the foot peg on 'some' dynas. One in VA said, he would do a total bike alignment and I was actaully impressed with him/them! I've asked about 6 or 7 shops to date.

i got on here again talking about it because i thought there was finally an HD tech sheet on it!

 

Like to hear how that works

 

Ok, call me a moron, but I just went through my manual and I'm not seeing a part named a "snubber." What's the snubber and what's the T-bracket?

 

The first picture is the "t-bracket"...
The second picture is the "snubber"...
The third shows the gap that you should have between the "t-bracket" and the "snubber"...

Hope this helps. Sorry for the picture quality.