Advice on clutch adjustment
#1
Advice on clutch adjustment
Hi all, needing some advice on doing a clutch adjustment on my 2012 FatBob and my gf's 2013 Street Bob. I have the manual, I have all the tools. Primary fluid in both bike changed around the 1K mark with genuine H-D Formula + filled to spec.
Per the manual, it states to loosen the clutch cable until there is plenty of slack in the lever. I then remover the derby cover, and back off the clutch adjuster lock nut.
Then Im supposed to back out the adjuster screw then run in the screw by hand until it stops in the clutch pack. I then need to back the adjuster screw out by 1/2-3/4 turn.
Once that is set, i take a stepped wrench and while holding the adjuster screw in place tighten the adjuster lock nut. Once its snug, i take a torque wrench and torque the lock nut to 75-120 in-lbs. Reinstall cover and adjust clutch cable.
******** ADVICE NEEDED**********
Do you guys set the back off turns of the adjuster screw to 1/2 turn or 3/4 turn? The clutch feels solid with full holding power against the engine at the 1/2 back off.
My gf feels like the clutch engagement should be in the middle of the clutch lever throw and was wondering if the extra 1/4 back off (to the 3/4 back out spec) would put the engagement point where she wants it.
My issue is the shifter feels sloppy, and the primary feels ... like there is freeplay. I dont know if its clutch related, but sometimes I get a weak engagement into first, or while downshifting to a stop, the shifter wont grab the gear and I have to let the clutch out halfway to get it to catch into a gear. that issue is intermittent but happens often enough that it gets annoying.
Any help is appreciated!
Per the manual, it states to loosen the clutch cable until there is plenty of slack in the lever. I then remover the derby cover, and back off the clutch adjuster lock nut.
Then Im supposed to back out the adjuster screw then run in the screw by hand until it stops in the clutch pack. I then need to back the adjuster screw out by 1/2-3/4 turn.
Once that is set, i take a stepped wrench and while holding the adjuster screw in place tighten the adjuster lock nut. Once its snug, i take a torque wrench and torque the lock nut to 75-120 in-lbs. Reinstall cover and adjust clutch cable.
******** ADVICE NEEDED**********
Do you guys set the back off turns of the adjuster screw to 1/2 turn or 3/4 turn? The clutch feels solid with full holding power against the engine at the 1/2 back off.
My gf feels like the clutch engagement should be in the middle of the clutch lever throw and was wondering if the extra 1/4 back off (to the 3/4 back out spec) would put the engagement point where she wants it.
My issue is the shifter feels sloppy, and the primary feels ... like there is freeplay. I dont know if its clutch related, but sometimes I get a weak engagement into first, or while downshifting to a stop, the shifter wont grab the gear and I have to let the clutch out halfway to get it to catch into a gear. that issue is intermittent but happens often enough that it gets annoying.
Any help is appreciated!
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#7
I agree, it sounds like you want to adjust the clutch lever. Use the nickle size. Pull the cable at the housing until there is a nickle of freeplay
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#9
Good info, I am going to do the Andrews 30T install next week so I will be doing the clutch adjustment as part of the mod.
Question: After turning the adjuster screw inward till it is just touching and before backing it out 1/2 to 1 full turn(my HD SM has 1 turn as max instead of 3/4) the SM says to "Activate the clutch lever to verify the ***** are seated in the ramps". What are you feeling or not feeling to verify the ***** are seated?
Question: After turning the adjuster screw inward till it is just touching and before backing it out 1/2 to 1 full turn(my HD SM has 1 turn as max instead of 3/4) the SM says to "Activate the clutch lever to verify the ***** are seated in the ramps". What are you feeling or not feeling to verify the ***** are seated?