Rattle can over ceramic coated pipes?
#1
Rattle can over ceramic coated pipes?
Anyone one use the rust oleum high heat ultra semi gloss spray paint over the black ceramic coated heat shields?
It says it can handle up to 1200 degrees.
I am thinking of painting my vance and hines big shots with this semi gloss, not sure if I like the flat black ceramic coat that they come with.
Any tips or advice on rattle can painting over ceramic coating, not sure if it's any different then Painting over any other surface?
It says it can handle up to 1200 degrees.
I am thinking of painting my vance and hines big shots with this semi gloss, not sure if I like the flat black ceramic coat that they come with.
Any tips or advice on rattle can painting over ceramic coating, not sure if it's any different then Painting over any other surface?
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#5
I don't know for sure how hot it gets, but i painted that spray paint on my 83 Honda sabre pipes a couple years back-
one thing, i would honestly recommend testing it out on some scrap metal before spraying your pipes- i didn't personally care for the finish...
its kind of velvety almost, and looked horrible if/when it got dirty...
if you do go that route, it will smoke when you first fire your bike up- that's normal. after a while, it will stop. you just might get some funny looks until then.
one thing, i would honestly recommend testing it out on some scrap metal before spraying your pipes- i didn't personally care for the finish...
its kind of velvety almost, and looked horrible if/when it got dirty...
if you do go that route, it will smoke when you first fire your bike up- that's normal. after a while, it will stop. you just might get some funny looks until then.
#6
I don't know for sure how hot it gets, but i painted that spray paint on my 83 Honda sabre pipes a couple years back-
one thing, i would honestly recommend testing it out on some scrap metal before spraying your pipes- i didn't personally care for the finish...
its kind of velvety almost, and looked horrible if/when it got dirty...
if you do go that route, it will smoke when you first fire your bike up- that's normal. after a while, it will stop. you just might get some funny looks until then.
one thing, i would honestly recommend testing it out on some scrap metal before spraying your pipes- i didn't personally care for the finish...
its kind of velvety almost, and looked horrible if/when it got dirty...
if you do go that route, it will smoke when you first fire your bike up- that's normal. after a while, it will stop. you just might get some funny looks until then.
#7
Pipes close to the head can get 800 degrees +/- 50 or so. They run cooler the farther from the motor. Your short shots get roughly 500 degrees at the tips.
The shield temps are far less because they only get radiated heat and metal-transfer heat (no hot gases.)
If the paint you are using is ceramic and rated at 1200 degrees, you won't have any problems. Prep is the key. Like jmb79 wrote, degrease them thoroughly, scuff them well with Scitch-Brite, wipe them again and go.
One trick with ceramic paint is to heat cure it slowly. Let it dry per instructions. After installation, run the motor for just a short while, let it cool, run it again for a bit longer, let it cool, run it to full temp for a good ride, and let it cool. Kind of like a 2-stroke break-in process.
The shield temps are far less because they only get radiated heat and metal-transfer heat (no hot gases.)
If the paint you are using is ceramic and rated at 1200 degrees, you won't have any problems. Prep is the key. Like jmb79 wrote, degrease them thoroughly, scuff them well with Scitch-Brite, wipe them again and go.
One trick with ceramic paint is to heat cure it slowly. Let it dry per instructions. After installation, run the motor for just a short while, let it cool, run it again for a bit longer, let it cool, run it to full temp for a good ride, and let it cool. Kind of like a 2-stroke break-in process.
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#8
#9
Pipes close to the head can get 800 degrees +/- 50 or so. They run cooler the farther from the motor. Your short shots get roughly 500 degrees at the tips.
The shield temps are far less because they only get radiated heat and metal-transfer heat (no hot gases.)
If the paint you are using is ceramic and rated at 1200 degrees, you won't have any problems. Prep is the key. Like jmb79 wrote, degrease them thoroughly, scuff them well with Scitch-Brite, wipe them again and go.
One trick with ceramic paint is to heat cure it slowly. Let it dry per instructions. After installation, run the motor for just a short while, let it cool, run it again for a bit longer, let it cool, run it to full temp for a good ride, and let it cool. Kind of like a 2-stroke break-in process.
The shield temps are far less because they only get radiated heat and metal-transfer heat (no hot gases.)
If the paint you are using is ceramic and rated at 1200 degrees, you won't have any problems. Prep is the key. Like jmb79 wrote, degrease them thoroughly, scuff them well with Scitch-Brite, wipe them again and go.
One trick with ceramic paint is to heat cure it slowly. Let it dry per instructions. After installation, run the motor for just a short while, let it cool, run it again for a bit longer, let it cool, run it to full temp for a good ride, and let it cool. Kind of like a 2-stroke break-in process.