Attached are some pics of my 01 FXDL with Deuce risers. There is a little info floating around on how to install these on a 39mm triple tree. The original Deuce riser has a nub on the very bottom. The bottom diameter of the Deuce riser (1.620") and is larger than the hole in the 39mm triple tree (1.5") . This issue has to be dealt with in one of two ways. My advice is if you want to take a straightforward approach without cutting/grinding off the bottom nub of the Deuce riser, is to leave the original metal riser bushing cup washer in the triple tree and bolt these risers down. After bolted down and torqued, there will be a very small gap between the bottom of the riser and the riser cup washer. I've read where a rubber washer can be installed to fill the gap. According to my measurements, a rubber washer with an O.D of a little less than 1.5" (1.485") x 1.0 I.D would be a good starting point. On the other hand, it looks fine without any rubber washers to fill the gap. Don't over think the install process. The bottom nub on the Deuce rises are exactly the same diameter of your original risers and when torqued down, they will clear the top of your triple tree by less than 1/4", so why not just bolt them down and put in a few cosmetic rubber washers. There are not any clearance issues with the instrument panel , the length of the cables or handlebar wiring. *** Please note: My riser bushings are rubber and not polyurethane ***

If you decide to remove the riser nub, it can be done with a fine toothed hacksaw and then finishing up with a sharp fine flat file. Absolutely make sure that you only use one washer of the appropriate thickness to get the riser above the triple tree. You can remove the OE top riser bushing washer before installing the thicker washer but I like to leave it in because it cups the riser bushing. You can experiment with the thicker washer and riser cup washer at this point to see what works for you. *** Please chime in with your current washer setup ***

Very Important: Your washer has to have the same inside diameter hole as your bolt, which is .5 inches because if you don't, the sleeve inside of the riser bushing will get pushed up about 1/4 inch or more when you torque it down and you will end up compressing and caving in the riser bushing washers and sqooshing the bushings. The outside diameter of a 1.5" O.D. washer is approx. 1.470" and a M12 washer has just a little smaller O.D @ 1.440". This is all done with the stock OE rubber bushings with the metal sleeve. I'm thinking that a washer/bushing thickness of .300" would be the minimal and that measurement would be with or without the riser bushing cup washer. Experiment with the washer thickness is all I can say and find out what works for you.

If you have the chrome cap, two piece polyurethane bushings, I'm not sure if the exact same approach can be used when adding washers.

When you torque down the riser, it will compress the rubber bushing a little. What you want to avoid is the bottom of the riser making contact with the top of the triple tree because all of the vibrations will be transmitted up thru the bars.

Tighten the top handlebar clamp bolts down firm. There should not be a gap on the front of the riser cap. Then tighten down the bottom handlebar clamp bolts. Then torque the top HB clamp bolts and then then lower HB clamp bolts to 140-160 inch lbs. Torque the risers bolts down to specs @ 40ft lbs only after you have your handlebars tightened. I'll do it in 2 steps by torquing each one to 30 and then to 40.

If your bars are crooked, loosen the bottom riser bolts a little, turn the wheel completely to one side (accordingly) and bump the end of the bar or grab the bar by both grips and twist it a little until it's straight. Tighten the riser bolts to spec. Repeat the process as necessary.

A few measurements:

1. original steel riser cup washers: 1.410 O.D. x .510 I.D.
2. Deuce riser bottom: 1.620" O.D.
3. The nub on the bottom of Deuce riser has a 15/16" (.932) O.D. and is 3/16" (.180) High.

4. The recess in the triple tree is 1.485" W.
5. Clearance between riser (with nubs) and instrument housing in at least 3/8".
6. After torquing down the risers (with nubs), there will be at least a 1/4 gap at the bottom of the riser.

*** All comments and additions Welcome ***

 

1.Three Pics of OE Deuce riser with nub.

2. Pic of gap after installing riser with nub.

3. Pic after installed

 

Been running them for about 7 years on my 2006. I just cut the nub off and used poly bushings...never a problem with them.

 

MASCMAN,

I did read your posts before I took on the project and I appreciate the info. Since you have a 2006, you can get by with just cutting off the nub and bolting them down.

 

Take a look at http://www.wild1inc.com
Under accessories they have spacers that may solve your problem. I am sure you could give them a call for measurements.