Hello, I asked this a few days ago in the Paint/Powdercoat thread but did not get any reply's.

I am making some parts out of an old car tag (1966) that has some rust and faded paint. I really like the look of it and would like to preserve/protect it as is. I purchased some matte clear coat from a local car parts store and tried it on a scrap piece of tag. The matte clear took all the shine out of the paint and I really did not like the look. I did not think I wanted gloss clear but I guess that is what I will go with.

I'm just looking for other suggestions on preserving the look of the old tag.

Thanks very much.

 

All I can say is to try it. The problem with clear coating over rust is that rust is an ongoing chemical process, so the clear coat may bubble over the rust during a prolonged time period. On the other hand, the clear coat should slow the rust process down a bit.

Good luck.

 

mattle is a form of dull. It isn't suppose to have any shine to it.
I would use a good auto clear paint clear. Get in a spray can.
I polish a lot of things for folks and that is what I use most of the time.
You can also get a sealer designed for wheels or anything polished. Small packs. It lasts up to a year out in the weather. Just wipe it on and let it dry.
You need to clean the real bad off with a stiff brush. Not a metal brush.

 

Thank you! The rust is not really bad just surface rust I guess you would call it. I washed the plate really well in my sink with Dawn dishwashing detergent before trying the matte clear. The clear I used is primarily for wheels but it was the only non gloss finish I could find. I'm thinking I want a gloss clear since I did not like the matte. I just don't want the gloss to take the old/weathered look away from it.

 

POR-15 will stop rust but might be a little pricey for a project with a license tag. If you just have "patina", clear coat should be good.

 

Patina, that is the word I was looking for.

 

Try satin finish. It's not as dull as matte and might provide a good compromise.

 

you need to rust-mort the part to stop the chemical process then use a high solids urethane clear. that will seal the part no air no rust. you san adjust opacity of the clear two ways after catalized and in the gun, or use a tinted clear. matt clear will go yellow if you load it up, not good.
high solid clear will allow yout to polish the part to about any finish you want.
there are some really good ways to achieve "patina" as well

 

Thank you for the info. I'm going back to the parts store today an see what i can find. I also think the satin finish would be best but all i can find is matte and gloss.

 

Yep, I would use POR-15!