So I just reinstalled the rear wheel after having it completely removed and followed the service manual to reinstall it, but I don't believe I have it properly aligned. I marked the axle adjusters before removal and made sure I turned them both evenly. But when it comes to reinstallation after setting the belt tension with the adjusters, you then torque the axle nut, and then after the axle is locked in place the manual says to torque the adjusters down to a certain torque. Well, when I did that, the right adjuster took several more turns than the left did to torque it down, so now the adjusters are no longer at an equal amount of turns to each other. I have no idea why the right one turned more than the left but I don't think it moved the axle since it was torqued down to 100 ft-lbs.

The main concern is I'm not sure if the rear wheel is aligned properly and to be honest the manual's method of checking alignment is ****ing retarded - you somehow are supposed to measure from the exact center of both sides of the axle to the exact center of the fork pivot points...yeah right. I'd love to see how someone can accomplish this when the left fork pivot point is behind the primary and you'd never be able to get a good measurement. Anyone know of an easy way to check the alignment without crazy special tools? And do I need to be concerned that the adjusters are no longer at equal turns?

 

No there are pin holes in your swing arm that you use a special tool (that you can easily make) to measure from those holes to the centre of your axle. Check your manual, they are shown in there. Use these to get the distance the same either side

 

Doh...I feel dumb. I read the manual wrong. I see those holes now. Well I guess I won't worry too much about the adjuster screws not being the same number of turns as long as the alignment is good and the axle is torqued down. Which reminds me of another odd thing I noticed. With the axle nut torqued down properly there is quite a lot of space between the nut and the safety clip. The nut would have to back off a LOT before it would even hit the clip. Would feel safer if they still used the old cotter pin style.

 

Not hard to do. Mark the axle, pull it out, have it drilled where you marked it and buy a castle nut to replace the existing axle nut Torque the axle and put in the cotter pin.