I saw that video plus the reviews and I was sold.

 

That is a cool video. Just picked a lightly used one on here and need to hurry and install it after seeing that.

 

Too bad they don't show the top part of the chain.. Probably floppin' all over the place..

 

That's what I was thinking too. Take the tension off ( when spring compresses ) and where does all the slack go? I think that's why the Baker unit is a better design, or the welded stock unit.

 

Guys, if there is not flopping, the chain tensioner is way too tight. Somehow it has to give, I can bet you anything the Baker one has slack too. Who knows? If ppl concern too much, should go back to manual adjust or simply weld it.

 

Been following this discussion for the past few days not only for interest but also because of the input from the well-respected contributors on this forum. As such, I was swayed to purchase the Hayden M6-BT07 over the Baker 177-67K because of the easier install.

Upon opening up the primary I discovered that the OEM auto-adjust unit was functioning as designed, that my chain's slack was within the specified range and not overly tight at all - mileage is currently just under 20K. I decided to leave well enough alone ('if it ain't broke…') and put the Hayden in storage for possible future use.

For reference, I tend to ride conservatively, and only yank on the throttle every once in a while for fun. If you ride the same way then chances are your chain will be in a similar condition as mine. Hope this helps.
~

 

Good for you.. I have an 07 EGC that has 62K on it and it still uses the original tensioner without issues. There have been a couple improvements to the OEM over the years.. The motor was built to a 103 with good heads / cams and has been ridden hard without tensioner issues..

The problem I have the the Hayden is that the newer bikes have larger motor sprockets so the chain needs to wrap more around the tensioner. Since the Hayden has a smaller shoe it seems to have more front / aft / downward forces on the shoe. They don't seem to be wearing as well as the early ones..

 

One thing to add. When the chain moves, the leading side on the top has much less play compare to the tensioner side, you always see more chain movement on the bottom. Same as automotive engine timing chain.

 

those of you that are welding this, where are you welding it? i can weld this sucker no problem just not seeing where would be the ideal location to weld up the stock one. just set the chain slack, mark it and put on tacks? is that what your doing? i would rather weld a bead on it but looking over the stock tensioner i am not seeing where this would be best

 

Question for all, how will I know when I need to start looking into changing or upgrading my tensioner or compensator? What would I be listening, looking or feeling for? I am not sure exactly what is effected by either of this items.