The next Springer Bob
#1
04-09-2007, 03:12 AM
The next Springer Bob
I finally won an auction on eBay for a HD Springer! I've been wanting to do this since I got the bike. My work is not yet started. I'm going to powder coat it and I'll have to get numerous parts and stuff. But the main piece is now won. The rest is just details. And time. Lots and lots of time.
kpreese, holla at a bro. Let me know what I need to make this work and what mods I'll have to do.
And if anyone else has any suggestions or input, let me know. Of course I'll post pics and stuff after. But I'm sure it will take some time to get this done. Later....
kpreese, holla at a bro. Let me know what I need to make this work and what mods I'll have to do.
And if anyone else has any suggestions or input, let me know. Of course I'll post pics and stuff after. But I'm sure it will take some time to get this done. Later....
#2
04-09-2007, 10:48 AM
RE: I'm finally going to do it!
Might want to trail fit the forks before powdercoat, IMHO......How about black krinkle powdercoat?[&:]
Sounds great! American Classic Motors has done this conversion before as well......don't want to buy any stuff from them, but might be able to get some free info. from him!
Joe
[&:]
Sounds great! American Classic Motors has done this conversion before as well......don't want to buy any stuff from them, but might be able to get some free info. from him!
Joe
[&:]
#4
04-10-2007, 10:42 AM
Road Captain
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RE: I'm finally going to do it!
Congrats! You paid way less than half what I paid . . .. jerk! Just kidding. I guess in fairness, I got a fully assembled front end with fender, brake hardware, wheel, tire, and even stuff I didn't want like risers and handlebars. But you got a good deal, plus the seller and I split the near $400 freight costs. $65 would have been awful nice. That front end will pack in a fairly compact box but it's a different story with the wheel and fender on there.
Anyway, lots of issues here, most of them little. I think I sent you some info on this before in a long PM but I can't remember for sure. I get asked about it a lot. So here are thekey items to be thinking about. Once you get a chance to get started, if you run into something, feel free to PM me. I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
1. Fork Lock
The big tab in the photo below has GOT TO GO. That sucker would have to come straight out from where it is attached to not interfere with the Dyna frame and it would need to be shorter. I planned on bending it and reshaping it, but it is THICK stuff. I hope to weld a flat plate on there some day with a hole lined up for the factory fork lock pin. But for now, I just chopped it off. This is well up under the frame so you don't have to make it too pretty, no one will ever see it. I left a little something there to weld onto later.
2. Fork stops
I called them "nubbies" but at the very top of that picture, there are two curved protrusions pointing up. If you get the springer properly seated, these will hit the frame right at the top of the rubber wiring grommits on either side. I got extremely lucky that this worked out so well since most "universal" fork stop options were for frame necks that had separate bearing cups and ours are built into the neck tube. You just have to be careful when you reassemble everything that none of your wires will be pinched or will grab the nubbies and wreck you.
3. Bars, risers, etc
I bought the Arlen Ness top clamp adapter that uses standard risers. There is a competitor making something similar (I *think* it is Carlini). This allowed me to keep everything from the risers up. I literally laid the whole bar assembly back onto the tank and that saved me time and $$$$ not having to replace the bars and/or cables. The springer risers are TALL so you'd be looking at new cables and the riser spacing would force you to buy new bars. Tons of choices here, I liked my fat bars and the hand position so I chose the path of least resistance here and it turned outperfect.
4. Blinkers
I had relocated my blinkers to the lower triple clamp. So I wanted to keep them off the bars. I bought a Drag Specialties springer blinker relocation kit. It was designed for older bullets so I had to make little spacers to mount the newer bullets to the brackets. But that solution worked really well.
5. Misc spacers and other hardware.
This is where $200 of books was a lifesaver. I had both parts and service manuals for both an '06 Dyna and 1996 Softails. I was able to measure what I needed and then use the hardware listings in the back to get HD part numbers. That made the process of buying this stuff virtually painless. The Arlen Ness adapter didn't come with screws for the risers and you cannot use normal riser bolts. Fortunately, I found exactly what I needed in an HD available part. There were also a ton of oddball washers that I needed. When you run into some of this stuff, let me know. I may not have the receipts, but I could probably call the dealer(s) and find out exactly what I bought. I'm sure they have it on record.
6. Brake
I used all 1996 stock brake hardware except the guy I bought it from installed a floating rotor. Fortunately, the master cylinder on a 1996 springer was the same as the '06 Dyna so I used my hand controls and hose. I can't remember which brake fluid I ran (whichever the Dyna uses), but t
Anyway, lots of issues here, most of them little. I think I sent you some info on this before in a long PM but I can't remember for sure. I get asked about it a lot. So here are thekey items to be thinking about. Once you get a chance to get started, if you run into something, feel free to PM me. I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
1. Fork Lock
The big tab in the photo below has GOT TO GO. That sucker would have to come straight out from where it is attached to not interfere with the Dyna frame and it would need to be shorter. I planned on bending it and reshaping it, but it is THICK stuff. I hope to weld a flat plate on there some day with a hole lined up for the factory fork lock pin. But for now, I just chopped it off. This is well up under the frame so you don't have to make it too pretty, no one will ever see it. I left a little something there to weld onto later.
2. Fork stops
I called them "nubbies" but at the very top of that picture, there are two curved protrusions pointing up. If you get the springer properly seated, these will hit the frame right at the top of the rubber wiring grommits on either side. I got extremely lucky that this worked out so well since most "universal" fork stop options were for frame necks that had separate bearing cups and ours are built into the neck tube. You just have to be careful when you reassemble everything that none of your wires will be pinched or will grab the nubbies and wreck you.
3. Bars, risers, etc
I bought the Arlen Ness top clamp adapter that uses standard risers. There is a competitor making something similar (I *think* it is Carlini). This allowed me to keep everything from the risers up. I literally laid the whole bar assembly back onto the tank and that saved me time and $$$$ not having to replace the bars and/or cables. The springer risers are TALL so you'd be looking at new cables and the riser spacing would force you to buy new bars. Tons of choices here, I liked my fat bars and the hand position so I chose the path of least resistance here and it turned outperfect.
4. Blinkers
I had relocated my blinkers to the lower triple clamp. So I wanted to keep them off the bars. I bought a Drag Specialties springer blinker relocation kit. It was designed for older bullets so I had to make little spacers to mount the newer bullets to the brackets. But that solution worked really well.
5. Misc spacers and other hardware.
This is where $200 of books was a lifesaver. I had both parts and service manuals for both an '06 Dyna and 1996 Softails. I was able to measure what I needed and then use the hardware listings in the back to get HD part numbers. That made the process of buying this stuff virtually painless. The Arlen Ness adapter didn't come with screws for the risers and you cannot use normal riser bolts. Fortunately, I found exactly what I needed in an HD available part. There were also a ton of oddball washers that I needed. When you run into some of this stuff, let me know. I may not have the receipts, but I could probably call the dealer(s) and find out exactly what I bought. I'm sure they have it on record.
6. Brake
I used all 1996 stock brake hardware except the guy I bought it from installed a floating rotor. Fortunately, the master cylinder on a 1996 springer was the same as the '06 Dyna so I used my hand controls and hose. I can't remember which brake fluid I ran (whichever the Dyna uses), but t
#5
04-10-2007, 03:15 PM
Elite HDF Member
#6
04-11-2007, 01:32 AM
RE: I'm finally going to do it!
Thanks bro! I'm still anxiously awaiting the arrival. I'm studying yourdescriptions and my Dyna manual for the time being. I have a couple buddies that are way more mechanically inclined than I am that have agreed to help out. I gotta say, I'm really fortunate to have good friends bothlocally and on the forum to guide me. I'll keep ya'll posted! Later...
And thanks, Priest.
And thanks, Priest.
#7
04-11-2007, 01:35 AM
Trending Topics
#9
04-12-2007, 07:58 AM
#10
06-03-2020, 03:40 PM
Oem springer front end on 2000 superglide
Congrats! You paid way less than half what I paid . . .. jerk! Just kidding. I guess in fairness, I got a fully assembled front end with fender, brake hardware, wheel, tire, and even stuff I didn't want like risers and handlebars. But you got a good deal, plus the seller and I split the near $400 freight costs. $65 would have been awful nice. That front end will pack in a fairly compact box but it's a different story with the wheel and fender on there.
Anyway, lots of issues here, most of them little. I think I sent you some info on this before in a long PM but I can't remember for sure. I get asked about it a lot. So here are thekey items to be thinking about. Once you get a chance to get started, if you run into something, feel free to PM me. I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
1. Fork Lock
The big tab in the photo below has GOT TO GO. That sucker would have to come straight out from where it is attached to not interfere with the Dyna frame and it would need to be shorter. I planned on bending it and reshaping it, but it is THICK stuff. I hope to weld a flat plate on there some day with a hole lined up for the factory fork lock pin. But for now, I just chopped it off. This is well up under the frame so you don't have to make it too pretty, no one will ever see it. I left a little something there to weld onto later.
2. Fork stops
I called them "nubbies" but at the very top of that picture, there are two curved protrusions pointing up. If you get the springer properly seated, these will hit the frame right at the top of the rubber wiring grommits on either side. I got extremely lucky that this worked out so well since most "universal" fork stop options were for frame necks that had separate bearing cups and ours are built into the neck tube. You just have to be careful when you reassemble everything that none of your wires will be pinched or will grab the nubbies and wreck you.
3. Bars, risers, etc
I bought the Arlen Ness top clamp adapter that uses standard risers. There is a competitor making something similar (I *think* it is Carlini). This allowed me to keep everything from the risers up. I literally laid the whole bar assembly back onto the tank and that saved me time and $$$$ not having to replace the bars and/or cables. The springer risers are TALL so you'd be looking at new cables and the riser spacing would force you to buy new bars. Tons of choices here, I liked my fat bars and the hand position so I chose the path of least resistance here and it turned outperfect.
4. Blinkers
I had relocated my blinkers to the lower triple clamp. So I wanted to keep them off the bars. I bought a Drag Specialties springer blinker relocation kit. It was designed for older bullets so I had to make little spacers to mount the newer bullets to the brackets. But that solution worked really well.
5. Misc spacers and other hardware.
This is where $200 of books was a lifesaver. I had both parts and service manuals for both an '06 Dyna and 1996 Softails. I was able to measure what I needed and then use the hardware listings in the back to get HD part numbers. That made the process of buying this stuff virtually painless. The Arlen Ness adapter didn't come with screws for the risers and you cannot use normal riser bolts. Fortunately, I found exactly what I needed in an HD available part. There were also a ton of oddball washers that I needed. When you run into some of this stuff, let me know. I may not have the receipts, but I could probably call the dealer(s) and find out exactly what I bought. I'm sure they have it on record.
6. Brake
I used all 1996 stock brake hardware except the guy I bought it from installed a floating rotor. Fortunately, the master cylinder on a 1996 springer was the same as the '06 Dyna so I used my hand controls and hose. I can't remember which brake fluid I ran (whichever the Dyna uses), but t
Anyway, lots of issues here, most of them little. I think I sent you some info on this before in a long PM but I can't remember for sure. I get asked about it a lot. So here are thekey items to be thinking about. Once you get a chance to get started, if you run into something, feel free to PM me. I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
1. Fork Lock
The big tab in the photo below has GOT TO GO. That sucker would have to come straight out from where it is attached to not interfere with the Dyna frame and it would need to be shorter. I planned on bending it and reshaping it, but it is THICK stuff. I hope to weld a flat plate on there some day with a hole lined up for the factory fork lock pin. But for now, I just chopped it off. This is well up under the frame so you don't have to make it too pretty, no one will ever see it. I left a little something there to weld onto later.
2. Fork stops
I called them "nubbies" but at the very top of that picture, there are two curved protrusions pointing up. If you get the springer properly seated, these will hit the frame right at the top of the rubber wiring grommits on either side. I got extremely lucky that this worked out so well since most "universal" fork stop options were for frame necks that had separate bearing cups and ours are built into the neck tube. You just have to be careful when you reassemble everything that none of your wires will be pinched or will grab the nubbies and wreck you.
3. Bars, risers, etc
I bought the Arlen Ness top clamp adapter that uses standard risers. There is a competitor making something similar (I *think* it is Carlini). This allowed me to keep everything from the risers up. I literally laid the whole bar assembly back onto the tank and that saved me time and $$$$ not having to replace the bars and/or cables. The springer risers are TALL so you'd be looking at new cables and the riser spacing would force you to buy new bars. Tons of choices here, I liked my fat bars and the hand position so I chose the path of least resistance here and it turned outperfect.
4. Blinkers
I had relocated my blinkers to the lower triple clamp. So I wanted to keep them off the bars. I bought a Drag Specialties springer blinker relocation kit. It was designed for older bullets so I had to make little spacers to mount the newer bullets to the brackets. But that solution worked really well.
5. Misc spacers and other hardware.
This is where $200 of books was a lifesaver. I had both parts and service manuals for both an '06 Dyna and 1996 Softails. I was able to measure what I needed and then use the hardware listings in the back to get HD part numbers. That made the process of buying this stuff virtually painless. The Arlen Ness adapter didn't come with screws for the risers and you cannot use normal riser bolts. Fortunately, I found exactly what I needed in an HD available part. There were also a ton of oddball washers that I needed. When you run into some of this stuff, let me know. I may not have the receipts, but I could probably call the dealer(s) and find out exactly what I bought. I'm sure they have it on record.
6. Brake
I used all 1996 stock brake hardware except the guy I bought it from installed a floating rotor. Fortunately, the master cylinder on a 1996 springer was the same as the '06 Dyna so I used my hand controls and hose. I can't remember which brake fluid I ran (whichever the Dyna uses), but t