Fuel pouring out
#1
12-22-2014, 12:13 PM
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Marathon, Florida Keys
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Fuel pouring out
Decided to take a ride today before US1 gets over run with holiday tourist traffic. I had only gone maybe 5 miles, and I felt my jeans getting wet. I looked down and saw gas running out all over the case under the horn. There are two hoses that connect right there above the horn and connect to two nuts. I think the fuel is leaking out of where they come down from the tank. I was afraid to ride the bike home even a few miles. Locked it up and called my Indy. He will bring it to his shop in the trailer. This happened very quickly and the gas was pouring out. The bike is a 97 RK and it is FI. Any ideas where we should be looking? Of course I have a full tank. I am a total clutz and any ideas would be helpful. 
#2
12-22-2014, 12:19 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#3
12-22-2014, 12:30 PM
#4
12-22-2014, 12:54 PM
Cruiser
There shouldn't be any clamps involved. These are factory crimped, molded hoses. KeysKruiser, the first thing I'd do would be to turn on the ignition without starting the bike. The hoses will pressurize and you should be able to see from where the leak is coming.
If a hose is split, it obviously will need to be replaced but if it's leaking out around the threads, the fitting may have just vibrated loose over time. Snugging it back up with the appropriate wrench may very well cure your ills and save the trip to the Indy.
If it's leaking around the threads and the fittings still seem tight, on o-ring may have gone bad inside the fitting. These aren't real difficult to replace.
If you don't already have it, think about purchasing the Factory Service Manual for your bike. With the factory manual (not Clymer or Haynes, but factory) the average guy can fix most small problems. I know, fuel pouring out seems like a big problem but with the manual explaining how to fix it, it will seem much less like a big problem.
I'm also a big fan of having the Factory Parts Manual for a specific bike as it shows breakdowns and comprehensive exploded diagrams of all the small sub-assemblies. This makes reassembling a lot of things much easier, as well as allows you to call your dealer with part numbers when you need something, insuring that you won't ever get a wrong part handed to you by an inexperienced parts guy.
Best of luck going forward.
If a hose is split, it obviously will need to be replaced but if it's leaking out around the threads, the fitting may have just vibrated loose over time. Snugging it back up with the appropriate wrench may very well cure your ills and save the trip to the Indy.
If it's leaking around the threads and the fittings still seem tight, on o-ring may have gone bad inside the fitting. These aren't real difficult to replace.
If you don't already have it, think about purchasing the Factory Service Manual for your bike. With the factory manual (not Clymer or Haynes, but factory) the average guy can fix most small problems. I know, fuel pouring out seems like a big problem but with the manual explaining how to fix it, it will seem much less like a big problem.
I'm also a big fan of having the Factory Parts Manual for a specific bike as it shows breakdowns and comprehensive exploded diagrams of all the small sub-assemblies. This makes reassembling a lot of things much easier, as well as allows you to call your dealer with part numbers when you need something, insuring that you won't ever get a wrong part handed to you by an inexperienced parts guy.
Best of luck going forward.
#5
12-22-2014, 01:27 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#6
12-22-2014, 01:45 PM
You detail a 1997 road king classic with leather bags.
My understanding is the road king "classic" with leather bags was a 1998 model.
Now to the question:
The two hose system that exits the bottom of the tank is an M & M fuel injection system.
The original harley hoses are NOT serviceable at the swivel portion just under the tank. There is an internal o-ring that breaks down over many years 10+. There is no access to the o-ring because of the factory design...It is different entirely from the newer bikes and can not be reached without destruction of the hose end.
They almost always leak at the swivel. There is one small o-ring that is reachable at the tip (tank insertion) but it seems to never be the problem but double check.
You have a choice of either ordering the factory hoses at $$$$$ or using GOODRIDGE brand HDFL005. The GOODRIDGE HDFL005 are serviceable and can be ordered online to the door for about $150-$160 TOTAL for BOTH hoses (just google). It is a common wear item. It is an easy DIY but i do suggest you get the o-ring service kit or at least the o-rings that are at the throttle body .
Check the microfish at Ronnies harley davidson but i beleave you should order:
A. 2 of # 11150 "clips" they have a major chance of flying when removing and cost $1 each
B. 1 of kit # 17043-95 o-rings and it costs about $15
The above items would be acquired from a Harley dealer.
Then i would order the Gooddridge lines i mentioned above.
For giggles i looked up Harley fuel line part numbers 61470-95 and 61471-95 and they are $190 and $190 for a total of $380 versus the Goodridge lines at $150 Total. It should take you no more than a minute to google a supplier at the price of $150 total delivered. So the Harley lines are more than double the cost.
The hardest part to the change-out is the two clips at the injectors that require the $4 -5 dollar clip tool (auto part store) and patience in not cross threading into the tank fitting.
If this will not be a do it yourself then an indy should not charge more than 1 hours labor plus any transport tow cost. They could do this job in a driveway with an adjustable wrench and the cheap c-clip tool if you drain the tank.
Finally, i remind everyone with a 1997-1998 Fuel injected touring bike to check the crank position sensor connector on the throttle side of bike, side plastic panel by saddle bag, behind painted panel that is under the seat, triangle frame area...check that connector is tight and zip tie it several times in order to avoid a bad connection and odd problems..it could leave you on the side of the road if connection is loose.
Here is a link to Ronnies so you can confirm part numbers.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche..../showmodel.asp
My understanding is the road king "classic" with leather bags was a 1998 model.
Now to the question:
The two hose system that exits the bottom of the tank is an M & M fuel injection system.
The original harley hoses are NOT serviceable at the swivel portion just under the tank. There is an internal o-ring that breaks down over many years 10+. There is no access to the o-ring because of the factory design...It is different entirely from the newer bikes and can not be reached without destruction of the hose end.
They almost always leak at the swivel. There is one small o-ring that is reachable at the tip (tank insertion) but it seems to never be the problem but double check.
You have a choice of either ordering the factory hoses at $$$$$ or using GOODRIDGE brand HDFL005. The GOODRIDGE HDFL005 are serviceable and can be ordered online to the door for about $150-$160 TOTAL for BOTH hoses (just google). It is a common wear item. It is an easy DIY but i do suggest you get the o-ring service kit or at least the o-rings that are at the throttle body .
Check the microfish at Ronnies harley davidson but i beleave you should order:
A. 2 of # 11150 "clips" they have a major chance of flying when removing and cost $1 each
B. 1 of kit # 17043-95 o-rings and it costs about $15
The above items would be acquired from a Harley dealer.
Then i would order the Gooddridge lines i mentioned above.
For giggles i looked up Harley fuel line part numbers 61470-95 and 61471-95 and they are $190 and $190 for a total of $380 versus the Goodridge lines at $150 Total. It should take you no more than a minute to google a supplier at the price of $150 total delivered. So the Harley lines are more than double the cost.
The hardest part to the change-out is the two clips at the injectors that require the $4 -5 dollar clip tool (auto part store) and patience in not cross threading into the tank fitting.
If this will not be a do it yourself then an indy should not charge more than 1 hours labor plus any transport tow cost. They could do this job in a driveway with an adjustable wrench and the cheap c-clip tool if you drain the tank.
Finally, i remind everyone with a 1997-1998 Fuel injected touring bike to check the crank position sensor connector on the throttle side of bike, side plastic panel by saddle bag, behind painted panel that is under the seat, triangle frame area...check that connector is tight and zip tie it several times in order to avoid a bad connection and odd problems..it could leave you on the side of the road if connection is loose.
Here is a link to Ronnies so you can confirm part numbers.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche..../showmodel.asp
Last edited by im; 12-22-2014 at 01:58 PM.
#7
12-22-2014, 01:57 PM
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#8
12-22-2014, 04:37 PM
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Marathon, Florida Keys
Posts: 127
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Wow, thank you IM. I am just getting back from unloading the bike at the Indy's garage. We located the leak to be coming from the threads. No problem with the hoses. I have printed your instructions, and the parts list and will follow your advice. I have been trying to get the bugs out of this bike since I got it. I am no mechanic but will order a service book (e-bay?) and try to learn how to do some of this stuff for myself. Right now, I am a little disappointed. The bike looks brand new, but has left me on the side of the road twice now. I am really glad I found you guys. Probably won't get into this till after Christmas, but I will post a follow up. Thanks again IM, for taking the time to walk me through this. If you ever get to the Keys, I owe you a fish sandwich and a beer.
#9
12-22-2014, 06:22 PM
1-The crank sensor connector being loose is the classic side of the road shut down for no reason...especially over a bump.. People scratch their heads forever,call out all kinds of words and the techs do not know check for it (it is a free fix).
2-The fuel line issue is another but rather easy to see as discovered.
3-Then the final one is the tank liner coating will release a piece a little larger than a quarter from the exact center inside of tank. Very easy to see if you remove the access panel at top of tank and then drain and fill while filtering the same gas with a paper coffee filter until you catch the piece that blocks the inflow of fuel (again a free fix)...bike starves for fuel..slows down...then gets fuel..then starves for fuel and just makes you angry...rather joy moment went you identify the problem and it requires no parts (FREE fix).
Just remembered:
***Hard starting...lots of crank but will not start is the CAM positions sensor melting. Look at your right foot board, look under cone(V2 circle) on motor , look at wire exit under cone, do you see some biege goo at wire exit? $195 dollar part but easy DIY with simple tools. It gives up the ghost after about 8-10 years but gives a lot of warning with difficult starts...lots of crank but no start...then wait a minute...a super quick tap on starter button and it starts.
This is a simple bike to work-on but the younger techs due not know the EVO motor or the italian M & M fuel injection.
Just get the real service book for about $50 and read chapter 9 and you too can be informed. Computer codes can be read with ZERO tools..
Just let us know what info you want/need.
2-The fuel line issue is another but rather easy to see as discovered.
3-Then the final one is the tank liner coating will release a piece a little larger than a quarter from the exact center inside of tank. Very easy to see if you remove the access panel at top of tank and then drain and fill while filtering the same gas with a paper coffee filter until you catch the piece that blocks the inflow of fuel (again a free fix)...bike starves for fuel..slows down...then gets fuel..then starves for fuel and just makes you angry...rather joy moment went you identify the problem and it requires no parts (FREE fix).
Just remembered:
***Hard starting...lots of crank but will not start is the CAM positions sensor melting. Look at your right foot board, look under cone(V2 circle) on motor , look at wire exit under cone, do you see some biege goo at wire exit? $195 dollar part but easy DIY with simple tools. It gives up the ghost after about 8-10 years but gives a lot of warning with difficult starts...lots of crank but no start...then wait a minute...a super quick tap on starter button and it starts.
This is a simple bike to work-on but the younger techs due not know the EVO motor or the italian M & M fuel injection.
Just get the real service book for about $50 and read chapter 9 and you too can be informed. Computer codes can be read with ZERO tools..
Just let us know what info you want/need.
