Changing each of my fluids... 1998 FXDL.
#1
Changing each of my fluids... 1998 FXDL.
Evening guys. First off, I ordered a manual a week ago but still haven't received it so here I am.
I want to change the fluids on my 1998 FXDL, what kinds of seals gaskets will I need and where's a good place to get them?
Patiently awaiting my manual (well, not too patient),
Tom
I want to change the fluids on my 1998 FXDL, what kinds of seals gaskets will I need and where's a good place to get them?
Patiently awaiting my manual (well, not too patient),
Tom
#2
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet Texas
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#3
As long as you put some oil on the o-ring and drain plug threads each time, you should be fine... should last a few changes. Be sure not to over tighten the drain plugs. All I do is get them as tight as possible by hand, and then a bump or two with a ratchet is all you need. They're hard enough to get off when it comes time to change the oil.. I don't see why guys feel the need to crank down on them in that soft aluminum.
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I have the manual you need in my garage so if you need anything specific before yours arrives let me know. I did a lot of oil thread reading. Redline makes a well liked trans fluid and I use valvoline 4 stroke 10w40 in the primary non synthetic. I used Harley's 20w50 in the engine but will be using the valvoline 4 stroke 2w50 non synthetic going forward.
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#8
Don't forget front fork oil and brake fluid.
Pretty sure your 1998 is DOT 5 only for brake fluid (my 94 is). It will not mix with DOT 3 and/or DOT 4. If it is original brake fluid, then time for a change. Autozone, advance auto, Orielly's, etc. will have the DOT 5. You might have to ask for it, but they have it on the shelves. Get two bottles. It is usually dyed purple so you know when you get purple color coming out of the bleeder screw, then your fluid change is done. The purple fades after a little while, but the fluid is still good even if the purple color has faded.
As far as front fork oil, factory fill is 5 weight. You can get fork oil from Harley or any metric shop, but, most riders like a heavier weight like 10 weight. In that case, get a gallon of hydraulic fluid in iso-32 (10 weight) or iso-46 (20 weight). That gallon (found at the same places as the brake fluid or tractor supply) will cost you about 12 bucks and last forever. The stuff from moco is like 8 to 10 bucks for 16 to 32 ounces and your bike will take 9.2 ounces per leg.
Lastly, wheel bearings front and rear. You will need new seals, but probably will get away with a clean and re-grease/repack existing bearings. Any good marine grade grease will work fine (but you will get different opinions on what is best). You have tapered wheel bearings, so do a little reading on those (here). If you see any unusual wear or pitting, then time to swap them and the races out. My bike sat for awhile before I got it, so even though the mileage was low, the bearings needed replacement due to pitting from rust.
Good luck with your new bike and have fun getting to know it. YD
Pretty sure your 1998 is DOT 5 only for brake fluid (my 94 is). It will not mix with DOT 3 and/or DOT 4. If it is original brake fluid, then time for a change. Autozone, advance auto, Orielly's, etc. will have the DOT 5. You might have to ask for it, but they have it on the shelves. Get two bottles. It is usually dyed purple so you know when you get purple color coming out of the bleeder screw, then your fluid change is done. The purple fades after a little while, but the fluid is still good even if the purple color has faded.
As far as front fork oil, factory fill is 5 weight. You can get fork oil from Harley or any metric shop, but, most riders like a heavier weight like 10 weight. In that case, get a gallon of hydraulic fluid in iso-32 (10 weight) or iso-46 (20 weight). That gallon (found at the same places as the brake fluid or tractor supply) will cost you about 12 bucks and last forever. The stuff from moco is like 8 to 10 bucks for 16 to 32 ounces and your bike will take 9.2 ounces per leg.
Lastly, wheel bearings front and rear. You will need new seals, but probably will get away with a clean and re-grease/repack existing bearings. Any good marine grade grease will work fine (but you will get different opinions on what is best). You have tapered wheel bearings, so do a little reading on those (here). If you see any unusual wear or pitting, then time to swap them and the races out. My bike sat for awhile before I got it, so even though the mileage was low, the bearings needed replacement due to pitting from rust.
Good luck with your new bike and have fun getting to know it. YD
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