Well as per WhiskeyGirls recommendations I started the reconditioning of my sagging leather saddle bags. I first cleaned them with a mild soap and a little water. Next I heated up enough water to boiling point and filed the stainless kitchen sink. In went the first bag and counted to 45 seconds, being careful not to burn my hands. Took it out and drained it and noticed the zipper up flap had curled up like a pig trail. After I properly stuffed the bag with towels (didn't have news papers) I tired to uncoil the flap, I was successful but will see when it dries in 48hours. I have found that boiling water was way to hot as it deformed the plastic frame on the inside. With the way I stuffed the bag hopefully it will restore the plastic frame to close to its original position. I imagine that 160 - 180* water would have been sufficient. I did the same to the other bag (after the water temp had dropped) and did not have those problems but still hot enough to manipulate the leather. Now it just needs to sit and tomorrow I will be off to the tack shop to get an analine leather dye to restore the color and a conditioner to protect it. I will say that just buy soaking in the hot water it actually partially restored its black color. Attached are the before and after pics for the first stage, after I apply the analine dye I'll update with more photos..

 

Bag Balm is the best stuff to use amazon has it 10 bucks a can

 

Does the bag balm soften the leather enough so you can get the bag back into its original shape?
The lid off my RH bag could use a little reshaping. I have been using the Montana pitch blend oil and I have a thin piece of press board under the lid now to try and get the dip out of the center.

 

a guy i have bought from a few times and his name slips me right now has stiff flexable plastic kits that glue into the bags on the inside and they support the fullness to the complete bag, after they have been softened so the original shape is brought back - my FLST leather bags looked like a cement mixer was parked on them for a couple of years - they look like they have now seems to be they never seen sunlight - the wear is still on them and thats fine but they dont look homeless like the guy with the red bikeie muddy trail something dusty bags

 

Be careful with the hot water! The hot water can ruin the structure of the leather fibers and lead to bigger problems down the road. Not saying it will, but based on my reading it is a no no to heat the leather that hot. I have been doing some reading on leather saddlebag restoration and here is some info I acquired:

This link while it is long, gives some great info and the ingredients are easy to obtain of fleabay:

http://nautarch.tamu.edu/CRL/conserv...nual/File7.htm

Yes it is a long read but lots of good info.

Here is couple more:

http://www.wehrmacht-awards.com/foru...d.php?t=222154

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/ind...74.0/wap2.html

I scored two sets of stock saddlebags for my Dyna Convertible on Craigslist a little while ago, and recently restored them. The leather was dry, shrunk and deformed and the cordura was faded. The best results I got was using glycerin (99.5% vegetable base) from the drug store and Lexol leather conditioner from tractor supply on the leather, and I used rustoleum fabric dye/paint from autozone on the cordura (black satin).

Returning and keeping a certain amount of moisture content in the leather is just as important as keeping some of the oils in the leather. The glycerin attracts moisture and helps retain it in the leather, and the Lexol leather conditioner replaces the proper types oils that was originally used in the tanning process.

Of course to much of both is a bad thing. To much glycerin and the leather is prone to mold, to much oil (like neatsfoot oil) and the leather is always oily, and it never goes away. Waxes clog up the pores of the leather and prevent conditioners from being absorbed. I made the mistake of to much oil on a pair of saddlebags, and two years later they still weep oil on hot day. My bike don't leak oil the but the saddlebags do!

Here is another recipe for making your own conditioner, but the Lexol stuff is the cats azz. It is a conditioner and not an oil:

http://www.horseandhound.co.uk/forum...ner-and-use-it

As far as the leather shrinking, this is partly due to the loss in moisture content and the loss in the original tanning ingredients. Not saying all oils are bad, just saying there is more to it than just putting some oil on the leather.

I actually built a stretching rack using steel wire, threaded rod, homemade brackets, etc. I used the wire to slip between the two layers of leather and wrap around the brass rivets at various points that needed to be stretched, then looped it around the threaded rod. I rubbed glycerin into the dry leather a couple of times (like rubbing in oil), then a few days later, mixed up a glycerin and cool water soup, then got the leather pretty wet, put it on my stretching rack (like a hide stretching rack/frame/expandable cage that is able to expand by tightening the nuts on the threaded rod), and proceeded to moisten and stretch the leather (by tightening the nuts on the threaded rod a little each day) back into shape over 4 or 5 days. Then I just left things alone and let the leather dry slowly for a few days in my cool 60 degree basement (still in the rack).

After it dried I used the Lexol conditioner for a few days being careful not to use too much. After 4 or 5 days I took it off the rack and it has retained 95% of it's shape. The leather is still rigid, but a nice flex-able well nourished leather.

The stretching rack I made looked like something out of a torture movie, and I should have taken pics as it is all apart now, but did not. I actually want to make some type of a form or similar rack to use when the bags are just sitting around not being used or in storage. Something to prevent the leather from shrinking, thus loosing it's form. However, keeping the leather properly nourished (not letting the moisture content or the oils dry up) and it should not do much shrinkage.

It sounds like a lot of work making the stretching rack, but hell, it's winter here in Michigan, so plenty of time. Good luck. YD

 

I am looking to preserve the stiffness of the leather, not soften it. If I soften it. I believe it will sag again which is what I am trying to deter. I do however like the homemade conditioner and will try that. My parents are from the old country and Pig Lard was used for many things so I'm going to give it a try after I use the analine dye to restore the color. Thanx..

 

Was it Keith at Kamko? He sells the kits for FLSTS, maybe others.

Jes4Kix@nc.rr.com

Hotrodfatboy those bags look a lot better. Thanks for posting the thread, I need to try it on my springer bags which are stiff and wrinkled despite many applications of Pecard, Oberhauf and Hyde Food and the plastic inserts.

Maybe warm water will do the trick.

I will say the Oberhauf made my leather look nearly new, but still wrinkled, you might try it or rejuvenate your leather.

 

Yea warm water not boiling.... I also read that you can take 400 grit paper and lightly refinish the grain to a smoother texture. I will try after they dry completely.

 

Warm water is the way to go. Google "wet leather forming". It is what is used when making fitted knife sheaths and gun holsters.

Basically the leather is soaked in water for xx amount of time. Then it is formed over the item (knife or pistol or whatever) and allowed to dry slowly but completely.

The leather will dry firmer than before and will hold that shape until soaked again.

The guys who do this will saran wrap the knife blade or pistol to protect it from the moisture, and the wrapping give a little clearance so the knife or pistol can be pulled out easily, but just enough to retain a snug fit because the leather will shrink some.

If you soak the leather, be careful as it is easily scratched and gouged while in a soft wet state, and certain waxes will reduce the amount of water or conditioner absorption, so it is better to do the wet forming before you do any type of oiling/conditioning.

Yes those bags looks much better, nice work. YD .

 

Going out in a bit to get some dye. can't wait for the finished product, will post final pics....