Dyna rubber mount replacement.
#1
Dyna rubber mount replacement.
I have my rear fender off for re-paint and re-wire. I figure while I had it off, and the fact that I have to yank the rear tire anyways, I was going to replace the rubber mounts... 30k miles and they're toast. Front is mushy and has rubber peeling off, and the rear wanders around a little bit here and there. From looking at it, it appears that I won't have to pull the swing arm to get the rear rubber mount off, but what exactly is involved in replacing it? From what I gather all I need to do is support the transmission with a floor jack and then pull the bolts for it correct? Two cross bolts top and bottom, and then 2 in the center facing towards the motor?
Sorry for these redundant questions... a search didn't yield much. Thanks guys.
Sorry for these redundant questions... a search didn't yield much. Thanks guys.
#2
Your rear mount will anger you upon reinstall but it's easy
Get the bike upright and support the engine with a scissor jack not hydraulic. Remove the back two Allen bolts then from the right side with a long wobble extension remove the two nuts on the bolts. You might have to use a drift to tap the bolts out of the mounts it might be right you can try adjusting the jack to make them have no load I couldn't get mine to slide out easily.
Reinstall is the same but you'll probably need a helper to hold one side while you torque the nuts down. I did it without but needed help to line up and get them back in.
Get the bike upright and support the engine with a scissor jack not hydraulic. Remove the back two Allen bolts then from the right side with a long wobble extension remove the two nuts on the bolts. You might have to use a drift to tap the bolts out of the mounts it might be right you can try adjusting the jack to make them have no load I couldn't get mine to slide out easily.
Reinstall is the same but you'll probably need a helper to hold one side while you torque the nuts down. I did it without but needed help to line up and get them back in.
#3
Your rear mount will anger you upon reinstall but it's easy
Get the bike upright and support the engine with a scissor jack not hydraulic. Remove the back two Allen bolts then from the right side with a long wobble extension remove the two nuts on the bolts. You might have to use a drift to tap the bolts out of the mounts it might be right you can try adjusting the jack to make them have no load I couldn't get mine to slide out easily.
Reinstall is the same but you'll probably need a helper to hold one side while you torque the nuts down. I did it without but needed help to line up and get them back in.
Get the bike upright and support the engine with a scissor jack not hydraulic. Remove the back two Allen bolts then from the right side with a long wobble extension remove the two nuts on the bolts. You might have to use a drift to tap the bolts out of the mounts it might be right you can try adjusting the jack to make them have no load I couldn't get mine to slide out easily.
Reinstall is the same but you'll probably need a helper to hold one side while you torque the nuts down. I did it without but needed help to line up and get them back in.
#4
Easy but the potential frustration is high. I think I had to use something to lever the engine into place to line up. You should probably loosen the front and do a run on the ground with everything loose to settle the mounts after. The front is very easy but I'd recommend at least checking out the vibratechnics mount. It really makes the bike more stable. The way you ride it's not a bad idea.
You sure that rear needs replacing? You can see it if you use a mirror. Mine wasn't bad I just thought it was. It doesn't get oil on it like the front
You sure that rear needs replacing? You can see it if you use a mirror. Mine wasn't bad I just thought it was. It doesn't get oil on it like the front
Last edited by br549A1; 01-20-2015 at 05:26 PM.
#5
Easy but the potential frustration is high. I think I had to use something to lever the engine into place to line up. You should probably loosen the front and do a run on the ground with everything loose to settle the mounts after. The front is very easy but I'd recommend at least checking out the vibratechnics mount. It really makes the bike more stable. The way you ride it's not a bad idea.
You sure that rear needs replacing? You can see it if you use a mirror. Mine wasn't bad I just thought it was. It doesn't get oil on it like the front
You sure that rear needs replacing? You can see it if you use a mirror. Mine wasn't bad I just thought it was. It doesn't get oil on it like the front
I'm not entirely POSITIVE it needs replacement, but the rear end does wander a tiny bit, and at 30,000 miles, while I have the fender and everything else off, I can't really see not doing it.
#6
What I found was replacing the front cured the back wobble. Yours may be different but I remember my first ride it felt like it was going over train tracks when turning I wasn't sure it was going to make it back home. It was swaying and shaking like hell. The back mount is built different. Not saying yours isn't shot just that my front being replaced made a huge difference but I went vibratechnics. Replacing the rear made absolutely no difference at all.
All I'm saying is do the front first then decide. I'm trying to save you $100. If your rear is shot you should see marks on your starter body from allowing it to twist too far.
All I'm saying is do the front first then decide. I'm trying to save you $100. If your rear is shot you should see marks on your starter body from allowing it to twist too far.
#7
What I found was replacing the front cured the back wobble. Yours may be different but I remember my first ride it felt like it was going over train tracks when turning I wasn't sure it was going to make it back home. It was swaying and shaking like hell. The back mount is built different. Not saying yours isn't shot just that my front being replaced made a huge difference but I went vibratechnics. Replacing the rear made absolutely no difference at all.
All I'm saying is do the front first then decide. I'm trying to save you $100. If your rear is shot you should see marks on your starter body from allowing it to twist too far.
All I'm saying is do the front first then decide. I'm trying to save you $100. If your rear is shot you should see marks on your starter body from allowing it to twist too far.
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#8
#9
I'll check the rear out a little closer in the morning, although I could have sworn I saw marks on the starter motor.