Will do for sure, thanks for the heads up!! I could see how that could ruin your day........

 

I kinda in the same boat as you are.
I'm thinking of getting anther evo and do a motor and try a trans rebuild.
Dunno what year or model (yet), (I just sold my '74 jeep Saturday and the $$ is a fire ball in my pocket!!), but am about to collect ideas, a GOOD part list, so I thank you for the info you put on and the replies from everyone else.
One thing I think I'd add to the list......
Cylinder studs, possible head bolts.
These are stretched when tighten to specs, get alot of abuse on heat/cool cycles.
I had a set on my old Royal Enfield that crapped the farm, (I know different part of the world that made them, but when you have it happen once...), I torque them down go @ to check the torque and they'd be REALLY off. Did it like 3 tiems and gave up and ordered a new set.
Many car makers tell you to replace the head bolts due to stretch.
Let us know how you made out and what you ended up using, stumbling blocks, so I can beware!
Joe
The best part of owning a charge card is the bike(s) that needs it!

 

Do some reading on an EV-13 cam. Gives you more grunt out of the hole because it comes on at lower rpms & you dont need to spend big cash on stiffer valve springs or grind your case to make it fit!
Hatch.

 

Jeff,

I have run V-Thunder cams in my last two bikes, and I think very highly of them.
There is nothing wrong with a Wood cam...they produce great numbers when properly matched...however, due to their agressive ramp design they tend to be a bit noisy, even when properly set up. I've found the V-Thunder cams to produce very good numbers in both of my bikes I've run them in, and they are whisper quiet. A buddy of mine (gsxrboy96) turned me on to them when I was building my old FXR, and I was sold from there. Lifters and pushrods are top notch as well.

As far as what cam will work for you...that can be debated by 10 people, and you'll probably have 10 suggestions...all I can say is it really depends on how you'll ride, and what other components you match the cam up to...some cams do great with stock compression, and some benefit from an increase.

An EV46 cam would do well in your application....I run the EVL3040 in my bike with 10:1...needless to say, it works very well, or I wouldn't be running it....a Wood 6 cam would work, it will be a bit noisy, though.
It all depends on your preference, really.

 

Reading Jeff's build, he's running 10:1 pistons.
The EV13 cam, with an intake closing of 31, will wind up detonating pretty badly. That cam would work better with a lesser compression ratio, IMHO.

 

Woods cams can sound normal but throw out the recommended pushrod turns that come with the thread pitch guidelines, also ran a Vthunder 5005 in a 10.5-1 engine and stock quiet but I learned about early intake closings producing the death rattle. Live and learn.

 

Yep....I'd bet the 5015 would have run like a raped ape in that set up.
I ran the 3030 in my FXR, 10.5:1, .040" head gasket SE heads...not a bit of ping, and pulled like a freight train all the way up to the limiter. I probably got away with it beacuse the weight of the bike... That was a fun scoot.

 

Some years ago I had a JIMS stroker kit installed in my original motor. The one thing the builder would not predict before he stripped the motor was any costs required on the crank. He was going to install new crank bearings, and would check the rod bearings, as they commonly go out of round.

Mine were out a few thou each and he honed them and fitted over-size rollers, but the next motor he did was far more out of round and he fitted a fresh big-end, as we call it over here. My 'new' motor ran as sweet as a nut and was wonderfully smooth, so checking those bearings is a good idea.

 

Well I've decided (a good friend talked me into it) to go ahead and pull whats left of the motor the rest of the way out of the frame so the rebuild ON A BENCH will be so much easier, or so I'm told.
NOW, will I have to pull the clutch and everything on the primary side or can I get away with leaving the inner primary in place after removing the stator/alternator & chain and just pulling the motor away from it?

 

The tuner I mentioned above removed the primary inner and left the trans in the frame when he did my motor. I trust you have a factory service manual?! Always worth having the 'bible' close at hand when boldly going inside these things!