Teardown progress
Ya AJ, I'm with 98 FLHX on lifters, Harley "B's", V-thunders, S&S if you hit the lottery. I run the Woods W6H and it has it's advantages but needs detail on installation, go with the Vthunder cam for an average street build.
I hurt a set of Harley "B's" with the aggressive lobed Woods and just put a set of Ultima lifters in, they are now made by Johnson (USA) ran in the Ultima big cammed engines and priced reasonable. I"ll run them up a couple of times and be able to give a yea or nea but the lifters listed above are rock solid with a Vthunder cam. Good Luck and watch for Moose!
PS: check the rods for up and down play while your there, very very very ugly when that lower bearing fails, trust me.
I hurt a set of Harley "B's" with the aggressive lobed Woods and just put a set of Ultima lifters in, they are now made by Johnson (USA) ran in the Ultima big cammed engines and priced reasonable. I"ll run them up a couple of times and be able to give a yea or nea but the lifters listed above are rock solid with a Vthunder cam. Good Luck and watch for Moose!
PS: check the rods for up and down play while your there, very very very ugly when that lower bearing fails, trust me.
Will do for sure, thanks for the heads up!! I could see how that could ruin your day........
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: north eastern Pa.
I kinda in the same boat as you are.
I'm thinking of getting anther evo and do a motor and try a trans rebuild.
Dunno what year or model (yet), (I just sold my '74 jeep Saturday and the $$ is a fire ball in my pocket!!), but am about to collect ideas, a GOOD part list, so I thank you for the info you put on and the replies from everyone else.
One thing I think I'd add to the list......
Cylinder studs, possible head bolts.
These are stretched when tighten to specs, get alot of abuse on heat/cool cycles.
I had a set on my old Royal Enfield that crapped the farm, (I know different part of the world that made them, but when you have it happen once...), I torque them down go @ to check the torque and they'd be REALLY off. Did it like 3 tiems and gave up and ordered a new set.
Many car makers tell you to replace the head bolts due to stretch.
Let us know how you made out and what you ended up using, stumbling blocks, so I can beware!
Joe
The best part of owning a charge card is the bike(s) that needs it!
I'm thinking of getting anther evo and do a motor and try a trans rebuild.
Dunno what year or model (yet), (I just sold my '74 jeep Saturday and the $$ is a fire ball in my pocket!!), but am about to collect ideas, a GOOD part list, so I thank you for the info you put on and the replies from everyone else.
One thing I think I'd add to the list......
Cylinder studs, possible head bolts.
These are stretched when tighten to specs, get alot of abuse on heat/cool cycles.
I had a set on my old Royal Enfield that crapped the farm, (I know different part of the world that made them, but when you have it happen once...), I torque them down go @ to check the torque and they'd be REALLY off. Did it like 3 tiems and gave up and ordered a new set.
Many car makers tell you to replace the head bolts due to stretch.
Let us know how you made out and what you ended up using, stumbling blocks, so I can beware!
Joe
The best part of owning a charge card is the bike(s) that needs it!
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,595
Likes: 8
From: Vancouver Island British Colombia Canada
Do some reading on an EV-13 cam. Gives you more grunt out of the hole because it comes on at lower rpms & you dont need to spend big cash on stiffer valve springs or grind your case to make it fit!
Hatch.
Hatch.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 375
Likes: 4
From: St. Peters, Missouri
Not a problem brother, didn't take anything but great information from your post! Food for thought FOR SURE. I am contacting my supplier to see if he has other lifter options available, like the Harley "B" or something else. I'm also considering switching from the Woods W6 to a V Thunder EVL 3010 or 3020. Leaning towards the 3010 due to the fact I am NOT a 80-90 MPH criuser (just not the road conditions here in Alaska for that IMHO) And even if there were, I'd rather get up to speed quicker and cruise comfortably near the speed limit... so the 1500-5800 RPM range of the 3010 seems more like what I would utilize more. What do you think?
I have run V-Thunder cams in my last two bikes, and I think very highly of them.
There is nothing wrong with a Wood cam...they produce great numbers when properly matched...however, due to their agressive ramp design they tend to be a bit noisy, even when properly set up. I've found the V-Thunder cams to produce very good numbers in both of my bikes I've run them in, and they are whisper quiet. A buddy of mine (gsxrboy96) turned me on to them when I was building my old FXR, and I was sold from there. Lifters and pushrods are top notch as well.
As far as what cam will work for you...that can be debated by 10 people, and you'll probably have 10 suggestions...all I can say is it really depends on how you'll ride, and what other components you match the cam up to...some cams do great with stock compression, and some benefit from an increase.
An EV46 cam would do well in your application....I run the EVL3040 in my bike with 10:1...needless to say, it works very well, or I wouldn't be running it....a Wood 6 cam would work, it will be a bit noisy, though.
It all depends on your preference, really.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 375
Likes: 4
From: St. Peters, Missouri
I think I've got it apart as far as I need it to be. Now to gather the parts;
Wiseco 10:1 .020 pistons
Mild head work
Woods W6 Cam w/ torrington bearing
Steel breather gear
Oil pump rebuild
Braided oil lines
RevTech lifters
Rivera Primo pushrods
Anything else I should consider?
Wiseco 10:1 .020 pistons
Mild head work
Woods W6 Cam w/ torrington bearing
Steel breather gear
Oil pump rebuild
Braided oil lines
RevTech lifters
Rivera Primo pushrods
Anything else I should consider?
The EV13 cam, with an intake closing of 31, will wind up detonating pretty badly. That cam would work better with a lesser compression ratio, IMHO.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,070
Likes: 2,115
From: Ohio
Woods cams can sound normal but throw out the recommended pushrod turns that come with the thread pitch guidelines, also ran a Vthunder 5005 in a 10.5-1 engine and stock quiet but I learned about early intake closings producing the death rattle. Live and learn.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 375
Likes: 4
From: St. Peters, Missouri
I ran the 3030 in my FXR, 10.5:1, .040" head gasket SE heads...not a bit of ping, and pulled like a freight train all the way up to the limiter. I probably got away with it beacuse the weight of the bike... That was a fun scoot.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,897
From: Bedford UK
Mine were out a few thou each and he honed them and fitted over-size rollers, but the next motor he did was far more out of round and he fitted a fresh big-end, as we call it over here. My 'new' motor ran as sweet as a nut and was wonderfully smooth, so checking those bearings is a good idea.
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Well I've decided (a good friend talked me into it) to go ahead and pull whats left of the motor the rest of the way out of the frame so the rebuild ON A BENCH will be so much easier, or so I'm told.
NOW, will I have to pull the clutch and everything on the primary side or can I get away with leaving the inner primary in place after removing the stator/alternator & chain and just pulling the motor away from it?
NOW, will I have to pull the clutch and everything on the primary side or can I get away with leaving the inner primary in place after removing the stator/alternator & chain and just pulling the motor away from it?
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,897
From: Bedford UK
Well I've decided (a good friend talked me into it) to go ahead and pull whats left of the motor the rest of the way out of the frame so the rebuild ON A BENCH will be so much easier, or so I'm told.
NOW, will I have to pull the clutch and everything on the primary side or can I get away with leaving the inner primary in place after removing the stator/alternator & chain and just pulling the motor away from it?
NOW, will I have to pull the clutch and everything on the primary side or can I get away with leaving the inner primary in place after removing the stator/alternator & chain and just pulling the motor away from it?
