New Sony i-pod radio for 1995 Ultra
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08-24-2012, 01:03 PM
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New Sony i-pod radio for 1995 Ultra
It was time to upgrade the aging and original tape deck radio in the 1995 EVO Ultra to a more modern unit that could play tunes from our I-pod or USB thumb drive.
A brief search here revealed that Biketronics has a harness kit that will allow the OEM controls to still operate with a new radio, but, unfortunately will lose functionality of the CB, Intercom and Weather Band, we never used these features, so this was not a big deal.
On order was :-
Biketronics Radio Install Kit, allows OEM handlebar controls to function
Sony DSX-MS60 Marine radio with internal tray for an I-pod or USB thumb drive, no CD or tape.
2 X 4” front speakers
2 X 4 ” rear speakers
In-fairing antenna
Splash Cover
Total cost was $665-00
Apparently you can install a new radio in 1 ½ to 3 hours. However I must be handicapped, because, it probably took me 8 hours to remove the old radio, CB and the old wires. To do this you first have to remove the tour-pack, headlight, light bar, bat-wing fairing, seat, fuel tank, fuel filler, and left side cover off the Ultra.
Here is what needed to happen first, before you can even begin to start the install.
These steps are not in the instructions :-
Remove the seat, there is an allen bolt holding the seat down located between the tour-pack and the back of the seat. Once the allen bolt is removed, slide the seat back and away from the tank and lift the seat off.
Disconnect the negative wire from the battery and tape it up so that it doesn’t make contact with the battery poles.
Remove the left hand side cover (kick stand side). If you have a rear crash bar, or, those wrap around saddlebag protector brackets for the left hard bag, you may have to remove these to get the side cover off and possibly the passenger foot rest.
Remove the liner from the tour-pack.
Remove the CB and radio antenna from the tour-pack.
Unscrew the CB and radio cables from the inside of the tour-pack and pull them out of the front holes in the tour-pack.
Remove control wire from right speaker pod by first removing the speaker pod.
Unplug the rear speakers from the harness at the connectors just below the speakers.
Unplug the tour-pack.
Unplug the CB radio, the CB is the black box under the tour-pack.
Remove the tour-pack by loosening the 4 bolts through the bottom of the tour-pack that attach to the mounts below.
Undo the license plate to gain access to the screws.
Unscrew the CB radio from the tour-pack rack.
Unscrew the CB from it bracket, and then wiggle it out from under the tour-pack and mud-guard.
Using a dull knife, pry the speaker covers off the rear speaker-pods.
Undo the 4 screws holding each of the old speakers to the speaker pods.
Drain the fuel tank.
Switch fuel petcock off.
Remove fuel line from petcock.
Undo the fuel cross over line.
Remove the 4 allen bolts holding the CB controls to the top of the fuel tank.
Open the fuel filler hatch and remove the 2 bolts holding the chrome filler to the tank.
Remove the 1 bolt holding the bottom of the chrome filler to the tank.
Remove the two bolts holding the rear of the tank to the frame.
Remove the front bolt holding the fuel tank to the frame.
Unplug the 2 OEM wiring harness from the panel under the left side cover and thread the wires out of the panel housing.
Unplug the harness from the plug at the battery, the CB/intercom wiring harness should now be free and loose and can be removed with the CB fuel tank controls.
Lift the up tank and position it so that the antenna wire can be traced and removed by clipping the zip ties, all the way to the front of the bike.
Remove the headlight light ring by undoing the screw under the headlight ring.
Remove the headlight and unplug it.
Remove the 4 screws holding the headlight mounting bracket to the fairing.
Remove the running lights, held on by 4 bolts, 2 on each side of the forks.
Place a towel, or something to protect the paint on the front fender and lay the light bar on the fender, leave the wires attached to the running lights on the light bar.
Locate the bat-wing fairing bolts on the inside of the bat-wing through the headlight hole and loosen them about half-way.
Remove the acorn nuts and bolts from the top of the bat-wing where the windshield starts.
Now you can remove the bat-wing.
Continue to clip zip-ties and remove the old radio antenna all the way to the back of the old radio.
Remove the fuse box located in front of the radio in the space behind where the headlight was, no need to unplug it, you need to make room amongst all the wires to get the old radio out. There is an allen bolt holding the radio back in there, loosen and remove the allen bolt holding the back of the radio to the mout.
Unplug the radio from the two sets of connectors.
Next to the front face of the radio, behind the rubber seal on the left and right of the radio, are 4 allen bolts, undo these. The radio should now be free and pull it out of it mount from the fuel tank side.
Unplug and unscrew the 2 original speakers from the bat-wing held on by three screws each.
Run 2 new speaker wires from the front of the radio mount to the location of the rear speakers, following the route of the old antenna wire.
Zip tie the new speaker and remainder of the original wires back into place.
Reinstall the fuel tank.
Attach the cross-over pipe and fuel line from the petcock.
Attach the chrome fuel tank filler attachment back onto the top of the tank.
Attach the tour-pack back onto the bike.
Now you are ready to begin the install of the new audio hardware for your sound system, and, everything came together pretty well.
The original rubber front surround piece on the old radio needs to be removed from the original radio and installed on the new radio, there are 8 “tabs” on it that need to be “relieved” so that this piece can slid onto the new radio.
I did have to slightly trim the top edge of the new front speakers with a dremel to make them fit the new mounts inside the fairing and match up with the new mounting holes.
The rear speakers do not re-attach with the original screws, new screws are supplied, and have make new holes for them in the speaker pods. Visibly the comparison between the new speakers and old ones are day-and-night with the new ones being much more “beefy” in all aspects.
The original rear speaker covers snap back into place on the speaker pods.
The new radios face is smaller than the old radio, so there is a fugly gap between the rubber and the new radio, but, by removing the snap-on trim ring from the radio the new splash cover can be inserted in there effectively closing the gap. In this aspect I think the OEM radios splash cover worked better and the fit of the radio was tighter with no visible gap between the radio and the rubber seal.
Plug in the retro kit was a snap between the radio and the original OEM plugs.
Wire the speakers as instructed, this was not a problem.
The front speakers plug into the original wires, and the rear ones attach to the new speaker wires that were run via the same route as the original antenna cable, under the fuel tank and seat.
The new antenna wire plugs into the back of the radio and is an invisible “in fairing” type.
Replace the 1 AMP radio fuse with a 10 AMP fuse.
Attach the negative wire to the battery.
Turn the bike onto “acc”, radio comes on and sounds terrific.
Instructions say that I’m done and can go ride now, but, I still have to button it all up and re-attach the batwing, light-bar, headlight, seat and side-cover. Then need to fabricate something to cover the holes left where the CB controls were on the tank.
A brief search here revealed that Biketronics has a harness kit that will allow the OEM controls to still operate with a new radio, but, unfortunately will lose functionality of the CB, Intercom and Weather Band, we never used these features, so this was not a big deal.
On order was :-
Biketronics Radio Install Kit, allows OEM handlebar controls to function
Sony DSX-MS60 Marine radio with internal tray for an I-pod or USB thumb drive, no CD or tape.
2 X 4” front speakers
2 X 4 ” rear speakers
In-fairing antenna
Splash Cover
Total cost was $665-00
Apparently you can install a new radio in 1 ½ to 3 hours. However I must be handicapped, because, it probably took me 8 hours to remove the old radio, CB and the old wires. To do this you first have to remove the tour-pack, headlight, light bar, bat-wing fairing, seat, fuel tank, fuel filler, and left side cover off the Ultra.
Here is what needed to happen first, before you can even begin to start the install.
These steps are not in the instructions :-
Remove the seat, there is an allen bolt holding the seat down located between the tour-pack and the back of the seat. Once the allen bolt is removed, slide the seat back and away from the tank and lift the seat off.
Disconnect the negative wire from the battery and tape it up so that it doesn’t make contact with the battery poles.
Remove the left hand side cover (kick stand side). If you have a rear crash bar, or, those wrap around saddlebag protector brackets for the left hard bag, you may have to remove these to get the side cover off and possibly the passenger foot rest.
Remove the liner from the tour-pack.
Remove the CB and radio antenna from the tour-pack.
Unscrew the CB and radio cables from the inside of the tour-pack and pull them out of the front holes in the tour-pack.
Remove control wire from right speaker pod by first removing the speaker pod.
Unplug the rear speakers from the harness at the connectors just below the speakers.
Unplug the tour-pack.
Unplug the CB radio, the CB is the black box under the tour-pack.
Remove the tour-pack by loosening the 4 bolts through the bottom of the tour-pack that attach to the mounts below.
Undo the license plate to gain access to the screws.
Unscrew the CB radio from the tour-pack rack.
Unscrew the CB from it bracket, and then wiggle it out from under the tour-pack and mud-guard.
Using a dull knife, pry the speaker covers off the rear speaker-pods.
Undo the 4 screws holding each of the old speakers to the speaker pods.
Drain the fuel tank.
Switch fuel petcock off.
Remove fuel line from petcock.
Undo the fuel cross over line.
Remove the 4 allen bolts holding the CB controls to the top of the fuel tank.
Open the fuel filler hatch and remove the 2 bolts holding the chrome filler to the tank.
Remove the 1 bolt holding the bottom of the chrome filler to the tank.
Remove the two bolts holding the rear of the tank to the frame.
Remove the front bolt holding the fuel tank to the frame.
Unplug the 2 OEM wiring harness from the panel under the left side cover and thread the wires out of the panel housing.
Unplug the harness from the plug at the battery, the CB/intercom wiring harness should now be free and loose and can be removed with the CB fuel tank controls.
Lift the up tank and position it so that the antenna wire can be traced and removed by clipping the zip ties, all the way to the front of the bike.
Remove the headlight light ring by undoing the screw under the headlight ring.
Remove the headlight and unplug it.
Remove the 4 screws holding the headlight mounting bracket to the fairing.
Remove the running lights, held on by 4 bolts, 2 on each side of the forks.
Place a towel, or something to protect the paint on the front fender and lay the light bar on the fender, leave the wires attached to the running lights on the light bar.
Locate the bat-wing fairing bolts on the inside of the bat-wing through the headlight hole and loosen them about half-way.
Remove the acorn nuts and bolts from the top of the bat-wing where the windshield starts.
Now you can remove the bat-wing.
Continue to clip zip-ties and remove the old radio antenna all the way to the back of the old radio.
Remove the fuse box located in front of the radio in the space behind where the headlight was, no need to unplug it, you need to make room amongst all the wires to get the old radio out. There is an allen bolt holding the radio back in there, loosen and remove the allen bolt holding the back of the radio to the mout.
Unplug the radio from the two sets of connectors.
Next to the front face of the radio, behind the rubber seal on the left and right of the radio, are 4 allen bolts, undo these. The radio should now be free and pull it out of it mount from the fuel tank side.
Unplug and unscrew the 2 original speakers from the bat-wing held on by three screws each.
Run 2 new speaker wires from the front of the radio mount to the location of the rear speakers, following the route of the old antenna wire.
Zip tie the new speaker and remainder of the original wires back into place.
Reinstall the fuel tank.
Attach the cross-over pipe and fuel line from the petcock.
Attach the chrome fuel tank filler attachment back onto the top of the tank.
Attach the tour-pack back onto the bike.
Now you are ready to begin the install of the new audio hardware for your sound system, and, everything came together pretty well.
The original rubber front surround piece on the old radio needs to be removed from the original radio and installed on the new radio, there are 8 “tabs” on it that need to be “relieved” so that this piece can slid onto the new radio.
I did have to slightly trim the top edge of the new front speakers with a dremel to make them fit the new mounts inside the fairing and match up with the new mounting holes.
The rear speakers do not re-attach with the original screws, new screws are supplied, and have make new holes for them in the speaker pods. Visibly the comparison between the new speakers and old ones are day-and-night with the new ones being much more “beefy” in all aspects.
The original rear speaker covers snap back into place on the speaker pods.
The new radios face is smaller than the old radio, so there is a fugly gap between the rubber and the new radio, but, by removing the snap-on trim ring from the radio the new splash cover can be inserted in there effectively closing the gap. In this aspect I think the OEM radios splash cover worked better and the fit of the radio was tighter with no visible gap between the radio and the rubber seal.
Plug in the retro kit was a snap between the radio and the original OEM plugs.
Wire the speakers as instructed, this was not a problem.
The front speakers plug into the original wires, and the rear ones attach to the new speaker wires that were run via the same route as the original antenna cable, under the fuel tank and seat.
The new antenna wire plugs into the back of the radio and is an invisible “in fairing” type.
Replace the 1 AMP radio fuse with a 10 AMP fuse.
Attach the negative wire to the battery.
Turn the bike onto “acc”, radio comes on and sounds terrific.
Instructions say that I’m done and can go ride now, but, I still have to button it all up and re-attach the batwing, light-bar, headlight, seat and side-cover. Then need to fabricate something to cover the holes left where the CB controls were on the tank.
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