I really have a head scratcher for you all. My 1998 ultra classic has an electrical issue that has me completly stymied. the bike will start and idle fine untill you pull in the clutch and drop it in first it immediatly dies. and has no spark for about 10 min or so. After that it will start right back up and do the exact same thing. If you start it in gear it will run and you can pull away but as soon as you go to second gear it dies again. Also if i start it and just let it idle in the garage for 10 min it will die and again have no spark for 10 min.

 

Pull the codes and let's see what they say.

 

Interesting one, but there really is no correlation between the transmission and the EFI, that I know of... I'd check your wiring, particularly the crank sensor, to see if it may be getting grounded when you kick the shifter.

 

Yes there is...the neutral switch...it goes to the ECM...try disconnecting it...and see if it still dies when you shift into first...not a fix but may help you find the problem. Also check to see if the bike has a kickstand switch(police and bikes destined for export did)...it designed to kill the bike if it is in gear with the stand down...if you have one and it is malfunctioning...could be the problem...pic of stand switch

 

Sure sounds like you have a coil breaking down, the dieing in gear deal is the coil isn't producing enough spark to fire a engine under load, BUT EFI is a single fire coil and usually one side or the other fails causing a single cylinder miss.

Pull your cam cover and see how bad the module is melted, it might not be sending a good ground to the coil to fully fire it and a weak spark, shut down all the way when gets hot and fires back up after cooling off, you have weak spark is the issue

 

Thanks for the input so far, I think i didnt give enough info in my first post. The problem isnt in the fuel system I have fuel just no spark for 10 min or so. The coil was my first thought, and I swapped it out to no avail. I replaced the coil pick up in the nose cone last year for cuz it was running out of the cone like a river lol. The bike doesnt die when i put a load on it in first it dies as soon as the shifter goes down. I am leaning toward the crank position sensor but I dont like the shotgun method of repair, throw parts at it till it works ya know.

 

Do the simple things first. Check your codes, the ecm does more than efi, and it's free. Nothing to lose.

 

PLEASE check the CRANK position sensor connector.
NOT the sensor but the connector.
The connector is a black push and twist connector.
Location:
Throttle side, remove plastic side cover under seat.
Look for connector in that triangle frame area.
Do you see it?
That is the crank position sensor connector.
It will make intermittent contact over bumps, gear engagement etc when loose.
Purchase nothing...just connect it together and use several tie wraps/zip ties to make sure it will never get loose again.
The CRANK sensor in general does not have a common fail rate but instead it is the connector that gets loose.
Check that and let us know.
Several folks have scratched their heads on that situation and it is a free fix.

 

For the future this is how you read engine error codes on your bike:
Remember switch must be on run so the fuel pump will cycle.
1-turn ignition key switch to ignition and then turn off 1 second after fuel pump stops.
2.repeat #1 again..remember 1 second after pump stops
3.turn ignition key switch to ignition and wait about 8 seconds for a bunch of flashing of the check engine light
it will then stop for 2 seconds..get ready... these are the codes you must count:
it will slowly flash 1,2,3,5....there is NO 4....this is the first digit of the 2 digit code ..so it can only be 1,2,3,5 __ __
then a 2 second pause...then you will get second digit of the 2 digit code..it can only be 1,2,3,4,5,6
remember after the complete 2 digit code is given you will go back to the rapid flash sequence..
there are a total of 15 codes available with this procedure
examples
52,53,54,55 bad news ECM replacement
56 crank/cam sensor
11 throttle sensor
12 barometric
14 engine temp. sensor
15 intake temp sensor
23 and 32 are injectors front/rear
24 coil
33 fuel pump relay--in this case you would not hear the pump but instead waited 3 seconds after the on / off sequence
update: Code 35 on Magnetti-Marelli EFI Systems
Normally a code 35 is set when there is a problem in the tachometer circuit. We
have identified another possible cause for a code 35 not specifically covered in the
Service Manuals. It pertains to a current or recurring historic code 35 (Tachometer)
on 1995-2001 EFI Touring models including Road Kings not normally equipped with
a tachometer. This code may be accompanied by codes 41, 42 or 56 and perhaps
even hard starting, poor cold idle and driveability issues. The ECM is functional
because it still has Key On power at pin 26.
Diagnosing this possible condition is relatively easy. Using the Scanalyzer, look for
consistent battery voltage in the data monitor mode (you may have to perform a
wiggle test while monitoring) because the Scanalyzer is monitoring voltage at pin 35
of the ECM (not battery voltage across the battery terminals). Closely inspect every
connection from the Main Circuit breaker to the ECM for loose crimps or
connections. Even a loose ECM fuse or intermittent ECM relay can cause this
condition.

 

I saw one of your posts in a different thread checked the cps conector and it appeared to be solid.