Evo losing electrical power... surging
#1
08-11-2014, 12:47 PM
Join Date: Apr 2012
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Evo losing electrical power... surging
All,
Having some issues with my '98 Fatboy. While riding down the road, the engine loses power and all of the lights dim like the bike is about to stall. It is not constant, it will loose power and then gain it back repeatedly. The bike does not stall it just acts like it only has enough power to idle. I verified that I am getting fuel and don't feel that it is a fuel problem. I rode 850 miles this weekend to and from Sturgis, bike only had this issue 2 times on the trip. Any help on possible causes would be great, trying to avoid taking it to the dealer. I have a multimeter and the time to fix this myself and would rather spend the money on parts.
-Grounds and cable connections, Already Checked
-Battery- Still same battery the bike had when I bought it 3 years ago, haven't checked age
-Circuit Breakers and Relay- Have not been changed yet
-Regulator- Have been told this could be going bad?
Having some issues with my '98 Fatboy. While riding down the road, the engine loses power and all of the lights dim like the bike is about to stall. It is not constant, it will loose power and then gain it back repeatedly. The bike does not stall it just acts like it only has enough power to idle. I verified that I am getting fuel and don't feel that it is a fuel problem. I rode 850 miles this weekend to and from Sturgis, bike only had this issue 2 times on the trip. Any help on possible causes would be great, trying to avoid taking it to the dealer. I have a multimeter and the time to fix this myself and would rather spend the money on parts.
-Grounds and cable connections, Already Checked
-Battery- Still same battery the bike had when I bought it 3 years ago, haven't checked age
-Circuit Breakers and Relay- Have not been changed yet
-Regulator- Have been told this could be going bad?
#2
08-11-2014, 02:50 PM
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#3
08-11-2014, 02:58 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
A regulator going bad generally won't give the symptoms you describe. You could have a short or a dirty main connection/switch. When you say the lights dim, how dim? Dim a little bit like to how bright they are with the ignition on but the motor not running or dim a lot? Note that if your motor is spinning, even if it isn't firing, the alternator is still making (or, well, transferring or transforming) power.
#4
08-11-2014, 03:14 PM
Cruiser
Hi!
Don't think it's the same problem because of the mentioned lights factor, but just in case...
A few years ago - don't know about the lights because I was comming back home from a road tryp driving at full daylight - I had a few random loose of power out from nowhere while on the road.
After trying everything and scratching his head a bit, my mechanic founded there was an small and almost invisible fracture on one of the collectors, wich was causing this problem when getting hot and dilating a bit. This was difficult to diagnose.
He weldered it, problem gone.
Good luck with whatever it is!
Don't think it's the same problem because of the mentioned lights factor, but just in case...
A few years ago - don't know about the lights because I was comming back home from a road tryp driving at full daylight - I had a few random loose of power out from nowhere while on the road.
After trying everything and scratching his head a bit, my mechanic founded there was an small and almost invisible fracture on one of the collectors, wich was causing this problem when getting hot and dilating a bit. This was difficult to diagnose.
He weldered it, problem gone.
Good luck with whatever it is!
#5
08-11-2014, 03:57 PM
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A regulator going bad generally won't give the symptoms you describe. You could have a short or a dirty main connection/switch. When you say the lights dim, how dim? Dim a little bit like to how bright they are with the ignition on but the motor not running or dim a lot? Note that if your motor is spinning, even if it isn't firing, the alternator is still making (or, well, transferring or transforming) power.
Dim to the point that the light almost goes completely out, before it goes out the bike recovers and then runs normal for about 5 seconds. It will do this off and on for about a minute and then it returns to normal.
#6
08-11-2014, 04:02 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#7
08-12-2014, 04:15 PM
I agree with this.
I suggest you clean out your ignition switch. It's super easy to do, all you need is a snap ring plier, ½ wrench to remove the console and 10 minutes. Common problem, and free to fix.
Gordon (GTMalone) on the Heritage Springer forum did a great how-to with pics if you are interested. See the link to pics at the bottom.
I suggest you clean out your ignition switch. It's super easy to do, all you need is a snap ring plier, ½ wrench to remove the console and 10 minutes. Common problem, and free to fix.
Gordon (GTMalone) on the Heritage Springer forum did a great how-to with pics if you are interested. See the link to pics at the bottom.
Originally Posted by gtmalone
HSOA TECH TIPS
ELECTRICAL
DOCUMENT CHANGE HISTORY:
date ---------- changed by --------------- recap of changes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11/26/2011 -------- gtmalone #2056 ----------- document created
KEYWORDS AND KEY PHRASES
Ignition - switch - connector
runs rough - will not start - speedometer doesn’t work - tachometer doesn’t work - power failure
APPLICABLE YEAR/MODEL
1997-1999 Evo
2000-2003 TwinCam
1. TECHNICAL AREAS ADDRESSED
1.1 - Intermittent electrical problems can be caused by either a bad terminal connection on the ignition switch or a bad contact inside the ignition switch. Symptoms you may experience are as follows:
- runs rough or will not start
- speedometer, odometer and tachometer (factory) are not working
- various lighting circuits are not working
- complete power failure
2. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE
2.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.
2.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank. Disconnect all plugs and remove the trip reset switch from the console.
2.4 - Remove the ignition switch from the console.
2.5 - Remove the circlip from the back side of the ignition switch.
2.6 - Remove the plastic contactor ring from the switch. Be sure to capture the 3 springs and 3 contacts from inside the switch. See Figure 1.
2.7 - Pull the key lock assembly from the switch housing.
2.8 - Wipe the old grease from the switch housing. Clean the switch contacts and the switch terminals with fine sand paper. Wipe sand paper residue from the switch housing. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the internal contact areas. See Figure 2.
2.9 - Reassemble the contactor ring, contact springs and contacts. Apply a small amount of grease to the contacts. See Figure 3.
2.10 - Reassemble the ignition switch. Insert the key lock assembly into the switch housing. It will only fit one way. Make note of the positions of the contacts on the contactor ring. The two contacts close together go next to the switch terminals. Reinstall the contactor ring onto the switch housing. See Figure 4.
NOTE: This will be easier if you hold the switch housing in a mostly key side up position and reinstall the contactor ring from the bottom.
2.11 - Reinstall the ignition switch into the console.
At this point it is recommended to perform the steps in Section 3 - 3.3 through 3.6.
2.12 - Reconnect all wiring to the console. Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.
2.13 - Reinstall the console on the bike.
ALL DONE!
3. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTOR SERVICE
3.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.
3.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank.
3.1 - Make a note of which color wire connects to each ignition switch terminal.
3.2 - Remove the connector from the ignition switch.
3.3 - Extract the 3 spade connectors from the connector housing. There is a small tab on the spade connectors. Insert a pick or small jewelers screwdriver into the housing to press down on the tab while pulling the spade connector from the housing.
NOTE: If the housing is melted you may have to use wire cutters to cut away the plastic from the connectors.
3.4 - Clean the inside of the spade connectors with a paper nail file cut down to fit inside of the connector. Clean the switch terminals with fine sand paper.
3.5 - Push each spade connector onto the ignition switch. If any of the connectors feel loose, LIGHTLY squeeze the loops on each connector to tighten the grip. They should be slightly difficult to push onto the terminals.
3.6a - If the connector housing is usable, reinsert the spade connectors into the housing making note of their original positions. You may have to bend the tab on the spade connector for it to catch in the housing. Push the connector onto the ignition switch. It will only fit one way.
3.6b - If the connector housing was melted beyond use, put a short length of heat shrink tubing over each spade connector and heat to shrink. Push the spade connectors onto the proper switch terminals. Put some sort of label inside the console as a reminder. See Figure 5.
3.7 - Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.
3.8 - Reinstall the console on the bike.
ALL DONE!
Links to figures:
IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE FIGURES
ELECTRICAL
DOCUMENT CHANGE HISTORY:
date ---------- changed by --------------- recap of changes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11/26/2011 -------- gtmalone #2056 ----------- document created
KEYWORDS AND KEY PHRASES
Ignition - switch - connector
runs rough - will not start - speedometer doesn’t work - tachometer doesn’t work - power failure
APPLICABLE YEAR/MODEL
1997-1999 Evo
2000-2003 TwinCam
1. TECHNICAL AREAS ADDRESSED
1.1 - Intermittent electrical problems can be caused by either a bad terminal connection on the ignition switch or a bad contact inside the ignition switch. Symptoms you may experience are as follows:
- runs rough or will not start
- speedometer, odometer and tachometer (factory) are not working
- various lighting circuits are not working
- complete power failure
2. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE
2.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.
2.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank. Disconnect all plugs and remove the trip reset switch from the console.
2.4 - Remove the ignition switch from the console.
2.5 - Remove the circlip from the back side of the ignition switch.
2.6 - Remove the plastic contactor ring from the switch. Be sure to capture the 3 springs and 3 contacts from inside the switch. See Figure 1.
2.7 - Pull the key lock assembly from the switch housing.
2.8 - Wipe the old grease from the switch housing. Clean the switch contacts and the switch terminals with fine sand paper. Wipe sand paper residue from the switch housing. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the internal contact areas. See Figure 2.
2.9 - Reassemble the contactor ring, contact springs and contacts. Apply a small amount of grease to the contacts. See Figure 3.
2.10 - Reassemble the ignition switch. Insert the key lock assembly into the switch housing. It will only fit one way. Make note of the positions of the contacts on the contactor ring. The two contacts close together go next to the switch terminals. Reinstall the contactor ring onto the switch housing. See Figure 4.
NOTE: This will be easier if you hold the switch housing in a mostly key side up position and reinstall the contactor ring from the bottom.
2.11 - Reinstall the ignition switch into the console.
At this point it is recommended to perform the steps in Section 3 - 3.3 through 3.6.
2.12 - Reconnect all wiring to the console. Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.
2.13 - Reinstall the console on the bike.
ALL DONE!
3. HOW TO - IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTOR SERVICE
3.1 - Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. This step is important to avoid a trip to the emergency room.
3.2 - Remove the console from the fuel tank.
3.1 - Make a note of which color wire connects to each ignition switch terminal.
3.2 - Remove the connector from the ignition switch.
3.3 - Extract the 3 spade connectors from the connector housing. There is a small tab on the spade connectors. Insert a pick or small jewelers screwdriver into the housing to press down on the tab while pulling the spade connector from the housing.
NOTE: If the housing is melted you may have to use wire cutters to cut away the plastic from the connectors.
3.4 - Clean the inside of the spade connectors with a paper nail file cut down to fit inside of the connector. Clean the switch terminals with fine sand paper.
3.5 - Push each spade connector onto the ignition switch. If any of the connectors feel loose, LIGHTLY squeeze the loops on each connector to tighten the grip. They should be slightly difficult to push onto the terminals.
3.6a - If the connector housing is usable, reinsert the spade connectors into the housing making note of their original positions. You may have to bend the tab on the spade connector for it to catch in the housing. Push the connector onto the ignition switch. It will only fit one way.
3.6b - If the connector housing was melted beyond use, put a short length of heat shrink tubing over each spade connector and heat to shrink. Push the spade connectors onto the proper switch terminals. Put some sort of label inside the console as a reminder. See Figure 5.
3.7 - Reconnect the negative lead to the battery. Check that the ignition switch is working properly.
3.8 - Reinstall the console on the bike.
ALL DONE!
Links to figures:
IGNITION SWITCH SERVICE FIGURES
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#8
08-20-2014, 09:57 AM
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#9
08-21-2014, 04:14 PM
Road Master
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electrical gremlins
Service and repair above asap to prevent stator burn out .
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