89" is just a S&S 4 5/8th crank assembly, no spigot boring so a pre 90's will be ok but the 90's are stronger. The 97" is a max spigot bore engine, experienced engine builders say they hold up, talked to Axtell and said a later era Evo case will hold and all of this in a stock case. Evo big bore kits run around $1000 with pistons plus cost of a spigot bore and use the stock crank, personally don't like rolling the dice on a spigot bore crack and a S&S rotating assembly is bullet proof plus can be installed by someone with mechanical ability with some patience.

Love the Delkron case that provides the 103" but takes the S&S 4 5/8th assembly to do that also, John Sachs said Evo heads would need alot of work to reach full capability which means STD or S&S heads if your going full giddy up. Scouting for deals, parts purchasing and the items to make it work will add up to same or more than a assembled motor with a warranty.

I personally have no problems with running a Ultima, John Sachs is one best engine builders in the country that puts Ultima's up against all others and runs them in his personal bikes, Kirby builds them, Mia from the Evo section puts his name on the line with Ultima plus a bad azz 120" Ultima in his touring bike. Bottom line is some people won't like them because of roots, some engine builders won't touch them, some people won't pay for the over priced name of S&S, I don't like some people and won't drink cheap Tequila so everyone has views.

When speaking to John Sachs he is a fan of the 113", Mia runs a 120" which is square and the HD 120R Twinkie has the same bore and stroke that makes is desirable. Both the S&S 124" & Ultima 127" will need the carb bored that cuts down on PMS and unleashes the full potential, besides shaking walls my 127" is as tame as lamb in everyday riding conditions and not peaky, roll into half throttle area and you plus your riding buddies know it isn't a lamb no more.

Down sides to big engines is heat, fuel mileage, cost of items needed to hold that power plus complimenting the power but not a better feeling when in giddy up. Take on it is a bigger cubed engine is less stressed plus needs less rpms to do the same as a small motor in the big horsepower world plus a big cube engine has more available mods if you want to go faster if you get bored

 

I came across a new S&S 145" Tribute engine a while ago, which I suspect is still available, also Star will build one. That's very appealing, simply because it's bigger than a Triumph Rocket 3! However the darned thing comes in butt busting tune, rather than pussycat tune, so I suspect will be no fun on the road. Rather than boring carbs to get the most out of a big engine I personally would rather sit on top of a soft-tuned low CR one, simply having the cubic inches, the street cred, plus enough GO to have fun, while not giving Mrs B kittens.

I owned a TC88 Dyna for several years and shortened the gearing from a 25T to 21T compensator, using an SE kit. That woke the darned thing up a treat, so I worked out what performance I would need to give a fully loaded Glide similar performance. The answer was around 131" (based on R&R data). John Mia I believe can build a 140" Ultima that might fit the bill, using a few secret ingredients, that will also fit in a stock frame. Now a built Ultima, as distinct from a box-stock one, would be well worth considering, although the labour costs of building one might add up some.

 

I am a huge fan of stroker kits, its a cheap way to have reliable fun and the power delivery is awesome!

 

Also look into Turbos from Aerocharger or Superchargers from Procharger. Both will take your basically stock engine from mild to wild.

My Stock 86 FXR now puts out 110hp at the rear wheel (with a bad tune)and all i really changed was the cam to an Andrews blower cam (EV31)

Lord knows what I would get if I had the heads ported etc

cheers

 

It will be geared for about 100 mph 110 mph top end looking deeper I don't think I want to open up the cases for bigger jugs Guess look for a used SS or other big inch running till Xmas. After that just go buy a new big one. Maybe a new 113. The Baker trans the way too go? Oh what a bad habit I got back!!! Lol

 

Might just stop. Was in Delaware water gap the other nite. But haulin a$$ back to VT. On 209 and 84

 

They've come down a lot. 124 = $6050

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/420-...FSbl7Aod_h4AiQ

 

take it from me....its EASY to blow $10k on a 124 (although I wouldn't trade mine for anything at this point)


the engine is just that... JUST the engine. you still need driveline upgrades (clutch at a minimum, plan on $5-700 for that setup with gaskets and fluids)....bigger starter ($250-300ish), better brakes (trust me you learn to really appreciate better stopping power with all the extra go)...budget for tires....chain conversion (i did this over another belt, was cheap insurance for me considering the damage I've done to belts in the past with an 80" evo)...and labor (negotiable since you may do most/all of it yourself).


plus now you can add in all the "oh while I'm in here . . . . " stuff...it adds up FAST


once again tho, WELL worth it lol

 

That looks pretty doable Have to go dig in now. Thanks. Early stages

 

. Brakes are on the bench along with newer lower legs and master. New clutch and basket in the box still. Fluids...race team donations. Lol. Have back half of 2011 ultra that will get fitted with much bigger tire. Trans and motor will be what will cost. Had not thought about belt