Need some help!
#51
09-21-2014, 10:27 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
#52
09-21-2014, 10:34 AM
You said that you had air leaking past the exhaust valve, while the pushrod was removed.
The bent pushrod was not causing this, since it was not installed in the engine.
The bent pushrod is just collateral damage.
The pushrod was adjusted too long, and when the engine rotated the valve collided with the piston, bending the valve and the pushrod.
Once you get the head repaired, I suggest you question your pushrod adjustment procedure, it is a simple process, but easily misunderstood.
The bent pushrod was not causing this, since it was not installed in the engine.
The bent pushrod is just collateral damage.
The pushrod was adjusted too long, and when the engine rotated the valve collided with the piston, bending the valve and the pushrod.
Once you get the head repaired, I suggest you question your pushrod adjustment procedure, it is a simple process, but easily misunderstood.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; 09-21-2014 at 10:56 AM.
#53
09-21-2014, 11:00 AM
Supporter
The Harley dealer would my last choice, find a local indy, maybe he can repair it in house, or lead you to a machine shop they would use.
If the seat and guide are OK, you could probably just get a new or even good used valve, lap it in, new stem seal, and go, since it sounds like your not going to get both heads fully reworked.
If the seat and guide are OK, you could probably just get a new or even good used valve, lap it in, new stem seal, and go, since it sounds like your not going to get both heads fully reworked.
#54
09-21-2014, 12:16 PM
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Ok, got the head off. It's a bent pushrod. It's obvious to the naked eye. I'll take the head to the local Harley dealer tomorrow and see if they can rework it. I don't know if they do their own work or send it out. I installed new lifters and adjusted the pushrods the last time about a year ago. I've probably ridden it 6-7 thousand miles since then. If I had adjusted the pushrods incorrectly then, wouldn't I have had a problem before now? Anyway, it's gonna get fixed next week. It's been an aggravating week to say the least. Thanks everyone for all the advice and suggestions. Ole Blue will run again. KC.
I found this a while back posted here but I don't remember who posted it.
First put the bike in high gear and rotate the wheel forward until the valve to be adjusted just closes.
Then put a piece of tape on the bottom of the wheel.
Next rotate the wheel forward until the valve starts to open, put another piece of tape on the wheel.
Halfway between the two marks will put that lifter on the heel of the cam.
Now you can adjust that valve.
We usually add a quarter turn or so extra to make up for loss of length when tightening down the pushrods. Hope this helps.
#55
09-21-2014, 04:16 PM
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#56
09-21-2014, 04:43 PM
I'll give that a thumbs up. JET make a nice set. They are cheap enough and claim to be more accurately measured than OEM, which doesn't surprise me.
Now you have your heads off, take your time to set the squish height and/or chop a little off the heads. It's cheap to do.
Johnsons (JET) also do made to measure or -0.050" short ones if you do.
Now you have your heads off, take your time to set the squish height and/or chop a little off the heads. It's cheap to do.
Johnsons (JET) also do made to measure or -0.050" short ones if you do.
#57
09-21-2014, 09:46 PM
I found this a while back posted here but I don't remember who posted it.
First put the bike in high gear and rotate the wheel forward until the valve to be adjusted just closes.
Then put a piece of tape on the bottom of the wheel.
Next rotate the wheel forward until the valve starts to open, put another piece of tape on the wheel.
Halfway between the two marks will put that lifter on the heel of the cam.
Now you can adjust that valve.
We usually add a quarter turn or so extra to make up for loss of length when tightening down the pushrods. Hope this helps.
First put the bike in high gear and rotate the wheel forward until the valve to be adjusted just closes.
Then put a piece of tape on the bottom of the wheel.
Next rotate the wheel forward until the valve starts to open, put another piece of tape on the wheel.
Halfway between the two marks will put that lifter on the heel of the cam.
Now you can adjust that valve.
We usually add a quarter turn or so extra to make up for loss of length when tightening down the pushrods. Hope this helps.
That would be me. It was the easiest way to have a novice get it right !!!
John
#58
09-21-2014, 10:16 PM
#59
09-21-2014, 10:26 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#60
09-22-2014, 05:56 AM
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