96 to 107 or 113 basic build questions...
#1
96 to 107 or 113 basic build questions...
Howdy,
After considering the 103 HD bore kit from the dealer I thought I should do some research on this section of the forum...I am sure glad that I did.
I'm a motor head newbie...so this is a new process for me. Been riding for 18 years, mostly sport bikes, got the FXDC in 2007, never looked back.
Bike is currently mechanically Bone Stock except for some SE slip ons. Going with a PCV and SE stage one in a few weeks, unless steared otherwise here.
Ok now to my build questions:
Which build would be better suited to my expectations the 107, or 113, or other?
I ride solo 95 percent of the time.
I want the power for street riding, where it is used daily, not in the high rpms. I want a reliable build above all. I would like to get somewhere near 110-115 tq and 110-115 hp.
What is the easiest way for me to get this accomplished?
What would the cost of something like this be? I am turning the big 40 soon and this engine upgrade will be my present to myself...=)
I have noticed Hillside in NY being recommended highly here on the forum. I live about 350 miles from them so they sound like a possible place to get the work done.
Thanks much for any and all info.
Cheers,
Tom
After considering the 103 HD bore kit from the dealer I thought I should do some research on this section of the forum...I am sure glad that I did.
I'm a motor head newbie...so this is a new process for me. Been riding for 18 years, mostly sport bikes, got the FXDC in 2007, never looked back.
Bike is currently mechanically Bone Stock except for some SE slip ons. Going with a PCV and SE stage one in a few weeks, unless steared otherwise here.
Ok now to my build questions:
Which build would be better suited to my expectations the 107, or 113, or other?
I ride solo 95 percent of the time.
I want the power for street riding, where it is used daily, not in the high rpms. I want a reliable build above all. I would like to get somewhere near 110-115 tq and 110-115 hp.
What is the easiest way for me to get this accomplished?
What would the cost of something like this be? I am turning the big 40 soon and this engine upgrade will be my present to myself...=)
I have noticed Hillside in NY being recommended highly here on the forum. I live about 350 miles from them so they sound like a possible place to get the work done.
Thanks much for any and all info.
Cheers,
Tom
#2
Smart man to ask first...
Since you are close to Hillside, contact Scott 315-495-6650. You can do a bolt in 107 kit that is very versitile. The tq curve can be put where you want it to. 107 is enough ci to have some good reliable fun as well. Of course more ci is MORE fun, but also more money. I would talk with Scott and tell him just what you want and what your concerns are. He has done enough of these builds to give you a proven combo that fits your criteria perfectly.
My thoughts on there perfect build for a bike like yours(not knowing your riding style) would be a 107, stage 3 heads and a Wood tw8. Big tq and the hp to pull you to redline right now!
Since you are close to Hillside, contact Scott 315-495-6650. You can do a bolt in 107 kit that is very versitile. The tq curve can be put where you want it to. 107 is enough ci to have some good reliable fun as well. Of course more ci is MORE fun, but also more money. I would talk with Scott and tell him just what you want and what your concerns are. He has done enough of these builds to give you a proven combo that fits your criteria perfectly.
My thoughts on there perfect build for a bike like yours(not knowing your riding style) would be a 107, stage 3 heads and a Wood tw8. Big tq and the hp to pull you to redline right now!
#3
Howdy,
After considering the 103 HD bore kit from the dealer I thought I should do some research on this section of the forum...I am sure glad that I did.
I'm a motor head newbie...so this is a new process for me. Been riding for 18 years, mostly sport bikes, got the FXDC in 2007, never looked back.
Bike is currently mechanically Bone Stock except for some SE slip ons. Going with a PCV and SE stage one in a few weeks, unless steared otherwise here.
Ok now to my build questions:
Which build would be better suited to my expectations the 107, or 113, or other?
I ride solo 95 percent of the time.
I want the power for street riding, where it is used daily, not in the high rpms. I want a reliable build above all. I would like to get somewhere near 110-115 tq and 110-115 hp.
What is the easiest way for me to get this accomplished?
What would the cost of something like this be? I am turning the big 40 soon and this engine upgrade will be my present to myself...=)
I have noticed Hillside in NY being recommended highly here on the forum. I live about 350 miles from them so they sound like a possible place to get the work done.
Thanks much for any and all info.
Cheers,
Tom
After considering the 103 HD bore kit from the dealer I thought I should do some research on this section of the forum...I am sure glad that I did.
I'm a motor head newbie...so this is a new process for me. Been riding for 18 years, mostly sport bikes, got the FXDC in 2007, never looked back.
Bike is currently mechanically Bone Stock except for some SE slip ons. Going with a PCV and SE stage one in a few weeks, unless steared otherwise here.
Ok now to my build questions:
Which build would be better suited to my expectations the 107, or 113, or other?
I ride solo 95 percent of the time.
I want the power for street riding, where it is used daily, not in the high rpms. I want a reliable build above all. I would like to get somewhere near 110-115 tq and 110-115 hp.
What is the easiest way for me to get this accomplished?
What would the cost of something like this be? I am turning the big 40 soon and this engine upgrade will be my present to myself...=)
I have noticed Hillside in NY being recommended highly here on the forum. I live about 350 miles from them so they sound like a possible place to get the work done.
Thanks much for any and all info.
Cheers,
Tom
The 107 will be considerably cheaper for both parts and labor as it is strictly a top end job. The 113 requires much more, at that point I would be looking to go ahead and step up to a 117/124.
#4
Thanks alot guys.
Some really good info here!
The idea of getting the hillside bolt in 107 sounds great.
Could you guys walk a newbie through the top end job. ie: boring jugs, changing cams, etc...Trying to figure out the process as well as the total cost for the project. Feel free to get really basic with me, I wont be offended.
I know the "which fuel management is better" question has been hashed to death, but any advice here? Thinking of going with the PCV at this point from fuel moto.
Tom
Some really good info here!
The idea of getting the hillside bolt in 107 sounds great.
Could you guys walk a newbie through the top end job. ie: boring jugs, changing cams, etc...Trying to figure out the process as well as the total cost for the project. Feel free to get really basic with me, I wont be offended.
I know the "which fuel management is better" question has been hashed to death, but any advice here? Thinking of going with the PCV at this point from fuel moto.
Tom
#5
save your self some time and call Dave at JD,s cycleworks in Pa . 1-610-297-0321 he and Scott are friends. might be able to save you the whole trip to munnsville. plus dave is a great tuner.
he has put plenty of scotts work torether and tuned them flawlessly.
if you are going to go with a hillside build the bike will have to be custom mapped by actually having it tuned ...
you just dont go dropping maps in there to get it close when you are doing a build like that. you can destroy the engine.
Oh yea a TTS is the best for tuning a harley
he has put plenty of scotts work torether and tuned them flawlessly.
if you are going to go with a hillside build the bike will have to be custom mapped by actually having it tuned ...
you just dont go dropping maps in there to get it close when you are doing a build like that. you can destroy the engine.
Oh yea a TTS is the best for tuning a harley
#6
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#8
I also recommend a 103-107 bolt on unless you have some spare cash laying around, then by all means go to the 113,117 or if you have even more spare cash laying around, 117, 120, 124.
There are lots of ways to get there and some pretty good shops out there to assist you. You asked for basics, I will give you a quick tour .
103-107 can be accomplished with boring of your stock cylinders, new pistons, rings, cams and good headwork. Will easilly get you into the Hp and Tq range you are interested in.
113 -117 requires new cylinders pistons, etc but can still use the stock crank but requires cases to be split to be bored to accept the larger cylinders
120-124 and larger requires all of the above and a new stroker crank.
I recommend anything over 107 to have the crank trued, balanced and pinned/welded to prevent shifting.
Ther you have it - it is all a matter of how much you have to spend.
There are lots of ways to get there and some pretty good shops out there to assist you. You asked for basics, I will give you a quick tour .
103-107 can be accomplished with boring of your stock cylinders, new pistons, rings, cams and good headwork. Will easilly get you into the Hp and Tq range you are interested in.
113 -117 requires new cylinders pistons, etc but can still use the stock crank but requires cases to be split to be bored to accept the larger cylinders
120-124 and larger requires all of the above and a new stroker crank.
I recommend anything over 107 to have the crank trued, balanced and pinned/welded to prevent shifting.
Ther you have it - it is all a matter of how much you have to spend.
Last edited by Dalton; 10-18-2009 at 05:54 AM.
#9
Tell me more guys.
I only want to do this once obviously. I guess I should call Hillside today and ask them for some pricing, as that is going to be a factor of course.
But I want to have the best bang for the buck. I dont want to spend money on a build only to find out that had I spent just a little more would have yeilded much more for my cash.
Can you guys speculate on the cost of some of these builds. Ballpark figures...for a 107 total cost, 113 total cost etc...
Thanks.
Tom
I only want to do this once obviously. I guess I should call Hillside today and ask them for some pricing, as that is going to be a factor of course.
But I want to have the best bang for the buck. I dont want to spend money on a build only to find out that had I spent just a little more would have yeilded much more for my cash.
Can you guys speculate on the cost of some of these builds. Ballpark figures...for a 107 total cost, 113 total cost etc...
Thanks.
Tom
#10
I also recommend a 103-107 bolt on unless you have some spare cash laying around, then by all means go to the 113,117 or if you have even more spare cash laying around, 117, 120, 124.
There are lots of ways to get there and some pretty good shops out there to assist you. You asked for basics, I will give you a quick tour .
103-107 can be accomplished with boring of your stock cylinders, new pistons, rings, cams and good headwork. Will easilly get you into the Hp and Tq range you are interested in.
113 -117 requires new cylinders pistons, etc but can still use the stock crank but requires cases to be split to be bored to accept the larger cylinders
120-124 and larger requires all of the above and a new stroker crank.
I recommend anything over 107 to have the cank trued, balanced and pinned/welded to prevent shifting.
Ther you have it - it is all a matter of how much you have to spend.
There are lots of ways to get there and some pretty good shops out there to assist you. You asked for basics, I will give you a quick tour .
103-107 can be accomplished with boring of your stock cylinders, new pistons, rings, cams and good headwork. Will easilly get you into the Hp and Tq range you are interested in.
113 -117 requires new cylinders pistons, etc but can still use the stock crank but requires cases to be split to be bored to accept the larger cylinders
120-124 and larger requires all of the above and a new stroker crank.
I recommend anything over 107 to have the cank trued, balanced and pinned/welded to prevent shifting.
Ther you have it - it is all a matter of how much you have to spend.
Cheers,
Tom