I've used a mityvac to vacuum bleed the brakes on abs bikes with good results (after changing a brake line for installing apes). I also have the Diag4bike tool to run the abs bleed that the digital technician does. I've used both methods and honestly haven't seen a difference in final outcome. Hope this helps someone

 

Had 2 HD rear brake switches go on a 2010 Road King. One done under a recall by HD. Still had to pay for digital tech service. This time bought an Accel brand switch and bled rear line with vacuum bleeder. Never let the master cylinder go dry. ABS works perfectly. Maybe I'm just lucky, but I'll flush lines myself and spend hard earned money on something else. What do you have to lose? DT will be glad to take your money later if vacuum bleed doesn't work. Although, pretty sure it will UNLESS, you've already sucked air in the lines and ABS light is staying on. Look at where that switch is located. Could they have put a hydraulic switch any closer to the hottest spot on the bike?

 

My switch was not really near the exhaust and two have failed. Probably has to do with Harley sourcing their part to the lowest bidder. Last one, I just got a lifetime one at Autozone.

Seems really strange that when yours was recalled, the motor company would charge you for bleeding it to complete the job. Think they were just simple robbing you on that stunt.

Actually, when you screw out the old switch and screw in the new one loose and push the brake pedal slowly till the fluid comes out, and then tighten it, there is no air to bleed.

 

Which mityvac model did you use?

 

Not sure. I've had it probably 20 years now. Any one that can create vacuum should work.