I've owned quite a few new Harley's and never had this happen, not even close.

On my brand new (100 miles) 2016 CVO Street Glide I need to give it a lot more throttle than normal to take off from a stop. I've had a few times where I took off with what would be normal throttle and it felt like I was starting in second gear. It hasn't stalled but it sure sounded close to it a couple times. If I throttle it harder than normal, it's fine.

I had a Vance and Hines exhaust put on it and Harley race tuner. They told me it was the stock map until 1,000 miles and they would download and setup the new map at the 1,000 mile service. Frankly, i never heard of such a thing and maybe I should have called them out on it. That's the only thing I can think of, unless all the new changes to the bikes, the 110 motor and the additional torque just breaks in a bit harder.

Otherwise it should be said that the bike runs perfectly; except for this. Thoughts?

 

I have a 15 CVO Limited. While I didn't notice a throttle quite like yours, I did feel like it was a bit sluggish. I had put on Rinehart Slimlines and 4" on. The dealer loaded a generic map for the new heads and I to bought a HD race tuner and waited until 1000 miles to get the dyno. (NOTE...the dealer should have flashed a generic map for the new heads on your bike. If they just threw on the heads and pipes and just left the base map on...that might be part of the problem!) The reason they want to wait until you have a 1000 on is to let the engine get it's legs under it. While theory on engine break-in seems to be debatable, I don't know that I would want to put a bike on the dyno with 10 miles on it and then expose it to 4 hours of run-ups to 5500+ rpm. Call it superstitious but I can't imagine that doing that is good for any new engine.

After the dyno was done the map was pretty solid...they did a good job and I noticed the throttle was a lot better under the tuned map. But I bought a V&H FP3 anyway. I am surprised since you bought V&H you didn't go that route. The dyno map became my default map. I got a hold of V&H and asked what map they would use on the Rinehart setup and was told the generic setup combination. That didn't work out well...in fact it was a lot worse than the tune I had gotten. So either I got an exceptional tune...or V&H must have a better canned map for Rineharts and I just got the wrong advise. (If any of the V&H guys have some input on combinations for Rinehart slimline heads and Rinehart 4" cans, I would love to hear it.)

Since I had loaded one of the V&H maps, I could now copy my base (dyno tuned map) in the FP3 unit, which I did and then flashed the copy of my base map (the dyno map), and deleted the V&H generic map. I then tweeked my copy of the base map by using the throttle sensitivity feature to the level right below the race setting. That made a positive difference in the throttle. I also was getting just a bit of decel popping and used the FP3 to adjust that feature as well. Been very happy with the bike's performance ever since. If I am running interstate and behaving myself I can get a between 41-42 mpg.

If it's not too late, were I you...I would hand HD back their tuner and save yourself the cost of a dyno session. From what I have heard from the people here on the forum who have V&H exhaust systems and used the FP3 to map their bikes...they have been pretty happy with it...and saved money to boot.

I am sure some of them will chime in.

 

Majorgeek: I am having the exact same issue I am on my third bike last one was totaled in an accident on 10/3. My new 2016 RGS has the SE slipons and SE heavy breather bike runs flawless however sometimes it is very hard to take off without what I would consider excess throttle. Seems to have a sloppy throttle for the first bit of twist then very responsive. I do not have a tuner yet however I am hoping Mrs Clause will be nice enough to put one under the tree for me (FP3)! Figure I would wait until first service to see if the could address it! Please let me know if you figure it out.

 

Can't help with your question but that's one sweet ride. I'm sure whatever is wrong can be remedied.

 

Have a 2016 SGS and find I have to ride the clutch in first gear for takeoff. Coming off a 1992 Ultra I have little knowledge of the new bikes. Do they have an easy clutch in them that would cause this problem?

 

I think 1st gear is taller on the 14's and up. I noticed it was different than my '05 and my '13. Not a big deal, just slip the clutch a little longer when taking off...You get used to it.

 

Hi, Old timer here I keep my 2014 Road King on trickle charge as I have noticed a weaker launch when not on charge.
The new 103 is a real screamer. Bud

 

I haven't noticed that on my 2015 flhxse. You might want to have a tec check that out.

 

I'm going to stop at dealer today and report back. My TPMs is also telling me low pressure but it's not. Usually an easy reset, at least with cars. When reading the manual I noticed a section about the ECM and read it. There are various modes but while one mode is conservative, maybe for breaking it in, it shouldn't effect only take off. I am able to get close to red line (didn't go too far because of break in) and crack the throttle as needed. Weird.

 

My '15 SGS does same thing at times, feels like I'm taking off in 2nd or 3rd gear. Motor kinda rumbles/rattles till I give it a little more gas. Odd that it doesn't do it all the time though. Glad to hear it isn't just me. All stock except VH slip ons