If I purchase an FP3 Tuner and K&N air filter now, will I get see any benefit out of tuning the bike with the stock exhaust stock while I'm saving up for the head-pipe and mufflers?

I mentioned in a previous post that I want to do the stage 1, but I don't have the bucks to buy and do everything at one time.

 

I don't know the capabilities of your tuner but if I were to keep my bike somewhat stock I would at least add 2-3% more fuel across the board.

 

Very little difference,, but it'd run cooler when more fuel is added..

most do it the other way.. pipes first if only one mod added,,

 

I would have to use the Auto Tune feature of the FP3, as I don't know anything about tuning the bike on my own. I was wondering if the Auto Tune would add more fuel since everyone says these bikes run very lean.

 

You haven't changed anything major so you VEs should hold.

The stock tune on my bike is basically 14.7-14.5 in most areas where you ride.
I added 2% more fuel just for fun after my prior post and it took a majority of the riding area to 14.4-14.2 still closed loop but some areas went 14.1.

At 1% more fuel the values dropped from 14.7 to 14.5 with a low of 14.2 keeping the original closed loop range intact.

I would venture to guess that even 1% more fuel across the board would be an improvement.

You haven't changed too much so the original VEs should still be good, with just an air cleaner an autotune shouldn't be necessary

 

Ask Safety Man how many times (at least 43, i believe) he's advised people to buy a tuner first, this way you can change up as you add components, etc. Makes a lot of sense to me, even a totally stock bike could benefit from a tweak.

 

I did exactly that. I was just basically curious.

I had a brand new 2014 Super Glide Custom. I did a baseline dyno pull at bone stock, than I had an experienced tech do a smart tune with an SEPST. The difference was very noticeable. No, not yank you off the back of the bike, but we both noticed the difference. Quicker throttle response, sharper exhaust note, definite improvement in pull away from a stop. Then I did a follow up dyno pull, same dyno shop, not the same dealership that did the tune. I got 2-3 lb-ft of torque between 1,500 and 4,000 rpm. No a/c, no exhaust, bone stock motor. Ran cooler as well. I had an experienced motor officer instructor ride it just for fun, and even he commented on the throttle response.

With my new '15 RGS I bought a stage one air cleaner, SEPST, and just threw on the new base map for SE A/C and SE exhaust. Not exactly the best tune, but a crap-ton better than stock. Big difference. Now I have a Vance & Hines ProPipe, the S/E stage one a/c and a smart tune. Pulls awesome.

 

Yup, we can thank the EPA for our screwed up fueling tables!

 

A bunch of years ago when I had my '03 Ultra classic, I wasn't impressed with it's performance stock. I didn't have alot of cash to waste on motor work so here's what I did. I bought a new K&N air filter, a set of used like new Screaming eagle mufflers, and a used Power commander off Ebay. I put the parts on, then took it to the local indy who happened to be a power commander approved dyno center. I told them to make it run as good as they can with what it has. When I got it back it was a night and day difference in how it performed. Not a Hyabusa killer or anything, just ran like it should. At that point I couldn't convince myself that I needed to do any more work to it. I guess all they did was unlock it's potential.,,,

 

+1 it will defiantly unlock it"s potential. The first engine
mod i did was a SE air breather, and a SERT and it made
me think they pulled the governor off.