I installed FK Rod End heim joints (CF5) on the shift linkage of my '14 SG. I do not have an opportunity to test ride just now, but have a few questions then comments to my install.

1. Start with the dumb one. When I try to run through the gears with the bike off I can get to 3rd, but no further. Is that right? Should I be able to get through all gears?
2. The HD service manual says that the shift rod is adjusted at the factory and should not need adjusting. Shift rod length is important to the operation of the transmission as the shift levers are positioned, yes? And as long as the shift levers work and the front shifter rod lever has enough travel it should just work, right? I may have confused myself on that one.
3. Does the front shifter rod need progressively more travel with each upshift? wondering why I cannot get through all the gears when not running.

Short details of my install - see any issues?:
1. Used the same length of stock linkage, center-to-center. Mine was 12 1/8 inches.
2. Installed the front heim on the inside of the shift lever. Used a button screw, inserted from the inside, for clearance (its not hitting) with an acorn nut on the outside. Does this somehow change the effective length? Should I adjust the rod longer or short to compensate.
3. I did not use the jam nuts. Once the heim joints were on and bottomed out, the rod length measured about perfect. No room left for the jam nuts.
4. I did not use washers at either joint. Heim joints seem to move freely enough.
5. Blue loctite on all threads, including heim-to-rod.

What have I done wrong you think (either contributing to the shift issue, or just in general)?

 

Roll the bike a little gears may be hung up

 

Would think if the rod length is pretty close, only thing you'd notice different is the position of the heel and toe shifter from before.

 

get it neutral, start the bike, put it in gear, test ride.

 

You'll need to either spin the wheel or roll the bike forward a little to get it to shift. As said above, rocking works, too. If I had the room, I would have put the jam nuts on any way.

 

I had zero room for the jam nuts. Does that sound "right"? Seems like some do, and some don't. Is that a function of the size of the heim joint? Are they standard sized? Or does the year of bike come into play?

I rolled the bike back and forth. Sometimes it seemed to shift more, others less. Not sure if I got to 6 and back. I'll have to test ride tomorrow. Just hope I don't get stuck down the street. Guess I can always find first and limp home!

 

Be sure the actual hemi sphere that moves with the flat has a small metric washer on the face to allow it to rock in and out. Also and this is very important. Make sure the joint is stainless sailboat type joint and not chromed with nylon sphere. They are way too tight. (and impossible to wear in..I tried spinning on my drill press and could not free up a set) You should easily be able to move the joint by your two fingers. There is a reason Harley's standard joints are loose. Slop does not hurt anything and it lets the lever always return. If they are tight, the you will miss gears and when it hangs in the middle fail totally to shift to next gear.

 

No,you need the jamb nuts. Re-install,with nuts.Stock rod? If not,maybe the rod is too short. You can't shift all the ears,without moving the bike,or at least rocking it back and forth.

 

Rod is stock. I just polished it up a bit (chucked in a drill, 600 grit paper, then Flitz metal polish). What does adding the jam nuts accomplish? Force to add length?

 

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Remove and reinstall with the jam nuts in place. Yeah, the rod assembly might be a bit longer, but you can adjust the individual shift levers up or down as needed to compensate. As you lengthen the rod your toe peg will drop and your heel peg will raise up. Once you have the shift linkage reinstalled just loosen and adjust the toe lever back up and the heel lever back down to your liking.
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