So I upgraded my clutch. I installed the Scream;in Eagle Race clutch, hub and 6 spring pressure plate.
For the Clutch friction dish and steel plates, I went with the Barnett "Extra Disk" carbon fiber kit. This kit comes with 9 steel plates and 10 friction disk.

The kit has 9 full width friction disk and one friction disk with a large inside diameter that lets you use the OEM dampening ring. The kit is suppose to be the same thickness as the OEM clutch pack.

So I get it installed and adjusted it like I do all my clutches. I loosen the cable then adjust the clutch rod screw till it touches the pressure plate then back it off about 3/4 to 1/2 turn ( I like my clutch to engage further out from the grip ).

I fire up the bike and pop it into gear. The clutch drag was so bad I had to hold the brake to keep it from rolling.
I tried several times to adjust it but it would not stop dragging.

So I called Barnett and they told me they recommend only 1/4 to 3/8 back off on the adjustment screw.
So I backed it off 1/4 turn, button it up and take a ride. It still drags but not as bad. But there is no way to get it in neutral unless I shut the bike off.
I am thinking that it just needs to be broke in a little so I put 100 miles on it and no change, it still drags and can not get it in neutral with the bike running!

So Yesterday I opened it up and tried some adjustments. I found that if I turn the adjustment screw until the push rod touches the pressure plate and DO NOT BACK IT OFF, it will shift stop dragging and I can finally get it in neutral with it running.
But it wont completely disengage until the lever is all the way to the grip. It takes every bit of stroke of the clutch lever to disengage the clutch when it should be at the very beginning of the stroke.

So I went back in and adjusted it again. This time, I adjusted the screw till it touched the pressure plate. I have a digital caliper and measured as I kept turning the adjustment screw until it pushed the pressure plate .015".

I buttoned it up and now it shifts great and disengages right in the middle of the clutch lever stroke. But adjusting it this way, the clutch is always partially disengaged. If I moved the pressure plate away from the clutch pack .015" , that is partially disengaged.

So I got on the internet and searched for people having similar issues. I found several post from people having the same problem but I found no answers of what anyone did to solve the problem.

Here is what is seems to me is happening. I have full movement of the pressure plate. It looks like it moves about .100" or so. All I can figure is the primary fluid is causing the drag. I am running HD Syn 3 in all three holes right now.

Right now I am thinking about just pulling the clutch back out and install the SE clutch pack.
I am going to call Barnett again today and see what they have to say. I just don't want to spend days and days trying different fluids.

Anyone else running the Barnett Extra disk carbon fiber kit? Any issues with it? If no issues, what fluid are you running in the primary? What adjustment did you use?

 

I do believe that you are supposed to run automatic trans fluid for that clutch. barnett and bandit recommend ATF

 

I have to wait till they open this morning to call but I sure hope that is not the case. I think I would just pull the Barnett and install the SE disk instead.

Not sure I want to run ATF in my primary!

 

works just fine!! atf is great lube for all that stuff in there, mercedes used to run it in their manual transmissions for years, I ran it in one of my primaries for years. stuff is amazing. keeps everything a lot cleaner inside as well. don't be afraid of the atf in there

 

ATF is just fine in the primary, if you feel like it, get B&M Trik Shift or another high dollar ATF. Its just fine, run it in my bike every day

 

Just got off the phone with Barnett. He did not mention ATF but when I did, he said yes to try it. But he said I should not be having as much of a problem as I am.
He is telling me that the SE Race clutch is known to give problems even with the Harley clutch disk??

I asked him, "The Barnett pressure plate is almost identical to the SE pressure plate, why would one give problems but the other doesn't"?
he had no answer for that one.

Anyway, I am not pointing fingers at either one, I just need my clutch to work correctly. I will try the ATF tomorrow and if that doesn't work, I will have a SE Race clutch and Barnett clutch pack for sale very soon.
Should have just went with the damn SE diaphragm spring instead!

But my thinking was, The true pressure plate should be more precise and predictable. So I went the SE Race clutch route.

As for why I felt the need to upgrade at all? Long story, 2 dealers and a yanked out tranny later and I figured I would go the extra mile and beef things up a bit this time.

I'll let ya know what happens with the AFT.

 

i installed the same clutch and a automatic primary chain tensioner on my old 98 fatboy. I rad the atf it was fine. neutral was a pain to find my problem was the chain tensioner. put the old on back in and all was fine. but it is finicky to adjust that clutch