Just finished up installing Andrews 48H cams in my 07 Fatboy. Very pleased with the results. I have been wrenching for many years, but this was the deepest I've gotten into a twin cam motor. It was a learning experience! I post up these comments hoping you may learn from my mistakes.

It is CRITICAL that the dots on the cams be lined up PERFECTLY. I thought mine were. They were not. It ran like crap! Talk about a let down! I had re-used the stock push rods with the extra work involved. I was NOT going to do that again. Went out an bought the SE tapered adjustables. Made the do-over MUCH easier.

At 40k miles the primary (outer) cam chain tensioner shoe had grooves on leading edge. Not deep, but while examining them with my fingernail a big chunk of the shoe chipped off! I replaced both tensioners. Also used new lifters (Gaterman 1023's) Of course did inner bearings with the Heartland tools. Easy Peazy. Checked crank runout-.003 No worries.

Pulling/insatlling push rod tube clips is a cinch if you use a thin wire and pull down with a pliers. Forget the screw-driver method!

Fuel Moto sent me a great map for my PC-V. But, they need 2 to 3 days lead time to get you the map. So request it prior to the tear down. They are not there for tech support on Saturday or Sunday. (and don't call at 3:00 pm on Friday and expect a call back before Monday)

The 2nd test ride put an ear to ear grin on my face! Since I am in Florida (sorry cold climate folks) this is our best riding weather. Planning on riding the hell out of it this weekend!.

 

Glad to hear your cam install went well. Mine was down for 6 months while I secured the funds to repair.... it inner cam bearing ate itself for lunch, trashed the cam. Decided to do a whole bunch of "might as well" stuff while I was in there.

Get out there and ride that thing man!

 

Thanks Tman. After 40k miles in lots of stop and go traffic I just wanted to get in there and check on things. Figured a cam upgrade couldn't hurt! Maybe avoid a disaster like you described.

 

Nice work. Sorry to hear you had to retime your cams though. That must have been a bit frustrating.

Can you please elaborate some on the method used for the pushrod tubes? I have an idea what you mean, but was hoping you could add some insight.

Thank you!

 

Clay, what do you think of the 48 cams that you installed? Do they give you enough grunt?

 

Clayvis,

Did you happen to photo-log your cam experience? I cracked the cam chest on my WG a while ago researching an issue (that turned out to be something else) but did lots of research into cam, lifter, etc. replacement and truly enjoy reading other folks' experience and the results. The dot issue is huge and lots of folks overlook just how important that happens to be, so I am glad you brought it up.

Very happy to hear you are riding again. Once the latest round of snow melts off, I will be on the road again!!!

v.r
rj

 

This was a 07? Hyd tensioners and bad a 40 thousand.

 

OK, let me get to all the questions:

1. Push rod tubes- I will try and post a pic of the method tomorrow when I get a chance. It is so simple and easy. Mine had never been touched since new. The springs were pretty tight and a bit corroded. I sprayed WD-40 in them and worked the spring up and down a bit using an 18mm open end wrench. Stay tuned for pic of wire technique.

2. The 48H cams in my Softail are amazing. I only had time for a 30 minute test ride so far, but once everything warmed up it blew my mind. I've been riding the bike for 40k miles with a V&H 2 into 1 Pro Pipe, Doherty Machine Power Pak AC, and Power Commander 5 with a map from Fuel Moto. So I am VERY used to how it performed. When I cracked the throttle wide in 2nd gear it was literally terrifying! But in a good way....Overall the bike runs smoother than it ever has. Major change in exhaust note also.

3. I did not photo log the install. I worked on the project after work during the week, so I just wanted to get it done. That reminds me of another good point. Working when you're tired is not a good idea. That's how I f'd up the cam timing. Just trying to get one last thing done before stopping for the night.

4. Tensioners were not too bad. The primary had some wear, but like I said, a chunk chipped off, so seemed like the shoe was brittle. The inner tensioner looked perfect. Barely had marks. I replaced it since the shoe color was the same, and who knows how brittle it was. Remember, I ride in Florida, and this motor has seen it's share of extreme heat. Stuck in Daytona traffic a few times... Figures the MOCO does not sell just the shoe. Have to buy the whole unit. They were $40 and change each. Cheap insurance to me...

Appreciate the support and questions. I forgot to mention about the method of finding top dead center on the pistons (TDC) You have to do this to remove the rocker boxes, or when you cut out the pushrods and put in adjustables. I had the bike up on my bike jack. Take out spark plugs, rotate rear wheel (in 6th gear) with finger over plug hole. It is easy to feel the compression stroke. It pushes your finger off the hole. Then put a drinking straw in the hole. Watch as it moves up. Then put a black mark on it with a sharpie and keep watching it as you nudge the wheel forward and back. There is one spot where it does not move either way when the wheel is nudged forward or back. That is TDC.

 

Ok, as promised here is a pic of the "wire" method of installing the push rod spring clips. All you do is slip a thin gauge wire behind the push rod tube, twist it, and pull down with the pliers. Do it just as shown, and you can pop the clip in no problem. The clips also just about fall out when using this method for removal. I tired several ways, and this was the best.

 

sweet thanks man im doign my cams i na coupel weeks and where my push rod tubes are all powder coated this will save them from gettign dinged up by a screwdriver