Need Tuner Info
#1
Need Tuner Info
Have a 2013 FLHX with Sreamin eagle aircleaner, V&H True Dual headpipes, and V&H Twin Slash mufflers. Will not be doing any other engine upgrades. Would a Dobeck Gen3 tuner work good for this set up. Thanks in Advance.
#2
I have a 2014 FLHTC with V&H slip-ons an also do not plan on doing any more engine upgrades. I have decided to go with the V&H FP3. A lot of people who have used it seem to think its very good. Mine is actually at the post office now and I'm going to pick it up this morning. Check out the V&H web site it just might be what your looking for.....good luck with what you choose! swifty
#4
I just can't see the need or reason for getting a tuner for that level of mods, especially since you don't plan any further mods. One of the best reasons to get a tuner is to avoid the recurring expense of having the dealer tune the bike when doing multiple mods over time. In your case I think it's justified to have the dealer give you one good dyno tune and you're be good to go.
#5
There's a wealth of information on the topic of tuning in this forum. Unfortunately, much of it is based on marketing hype and misleading/poorly understood ideas.
One would be best served if they spent some time learning the basics of tuning. This means grasping what real tuning actually is, what programs are available to accomplish the task, and the difference between tuning programs and add-on devices.
Every bike came from the factory with a "tune" already programmed into the ECM. That "tune" was a generic set of instructions based on bike's configuration at the time it was designed and built. Included in those instructions was a sub-program that allows the rest of the "tune" to slowly adapt to changing environmental conditions within certain parameters.
As conditions change and mods are made to the original factory build, the factory generic "tune" becomes less efficient.
So, riders can simply accept the mediocre behavior of the generic "tune" or attempt to more closely match the "tune" with any changes. And yes, even a completely stock bike straight off the showroom floor could benefit from a real tune because the factory "tune" is generic. And we know that not every motor behaves exactly like the next one...there are slight differences and those can show up in the bike's behavior.
And to match the "tune" with riding conditions, one must be able to access the ECM and make intelligent changes to the tune in order to effectively reach the desired level of tune.
Using many of today's add-on devices won't get anywhere close to a good match of the "tune" - and that will become clear when one learns what makes up a real tune and what doesn't.
In short, if you're OK with so-so performance from your bike, either do nothing or spend the money on devices that do little more then thin your wallet.
Good luck!
#6
Welcome to the forum!
There's a wealth of information on the topic of tuning in this forum. Unfortunately, much of it is based on marketing hype and misleading/poorly understood ideas.
One would be best served if they spent some time learning the basics of tuning. This means grasping what real tuning actually is, what programs are available to accomplish the task, and the difference between tuning programs and add-on devices.
Every bike came from the factory with a "tune" already programmed into the ECM. That "tune" was a generic set of instructions based on bike's configuration at the time it was designed and built. Included in those instructions was a sub-program that allows the rest of the "tune" to slowly adapt to changing environmental conditions within certain parameters.
As conditions change and mods are made to the original factory build, the factory generic "tune" becomes less efficient.
So, riders can simply accept the mediocre behavior of the generic "tune" or attempt to more closely match the "tune" with any changes. And yes, even a completely stock bike straight off the showroom floor could benefit from a real tune because the factory "tune" is generic. And we know that not every motor behaves exactly like the next one...there are slight differences and those can show up in the bike's behavior.
And to match the "tune" with riding conditions, one must be able to access the ECM and make intelligent changes to the tune in order to effectively reach the desired level of tune.
Using many of today's add-on devices won't get anywhere close to a good match of the "tune" - and that will become clear when one learns what makes up a real tune and what doesn't.
In short, if you're OK with so-so performance from your bike, either do nothing or spend the money on devices that do little more then thin your wallet.
Good luck!
There's a wealth of information on the topic of tuning in this forum. Unfortunately, much of it is based on marketing hype and misleading/poorly understood ideas.
One would be best served if they spent some time learning the basics of tuning. This means grasping what real tuning actually is, what programs are available to accomplish the task, and the difference between tuning programs and add-on devices.
Every bike came from the factory with a "tune" already programmed into the ECM. That "tune" was a generic set of instructions based on bike's configuration at the time it was designed and built. Included in those instructions was a sub-program that allows the rest of the "tune" to slowly adapt to changing environmental conditions within certain parameters.
As conditions change and mods are made to the original factory build, the factory generic "tune" becomes less efficient.
So, riders can simply accept the mediocre behavior of the generic "tune" or attempt to more closely match the "tune" with any changes. And yes, even a completely stock bike straight off the showroom floor could benefit from a real tune because the factory "tune" is generic. And we know that not every motor behaves exactly like the next one...there are slight differences and those can show up in the bike's behavior.
And to match the "tune" with riding conditions, one must be able to access the ECM and make intelligent changes to the tune in order to effectively reach the desired level of tune.
Using many of today's add-on devices won't get anywhere close to a good match of the "tune" - and that will become clear when one learns what makes up a real tune and what doesn't.
In short, if you're OK with so-so performance from your bike, either do nothing or spend the money on devices that do little more then thin your wallet.
Good luck!
I don,t need any more Harley Davidson EPA tunes I need a real Tune that is why if it is sold by H-D is sucks
#7
And if you're referring to the dealer download, it will keep the tune very lean so it complies with EPA specs. I don't see the point in that. All it really does is raise the rev limit, IMO it's not worth the money.
Trending Topics
#8
I have never heard anyone bad mouth a Dyno Job Done by Harley Davidson ?
Why because no one is going to admit to spending $400 plus dollars to be EPA compliant again ?? The Dyno is one big money maker for a dealer The Dyno is cheap the Tec is Cheap and the customer pays out the butt . WIN WIN for the dealer .
Why because no one is going to admit to spending $400 plus dollars to be EPA compliant again ?? The Dyno is one big money maker for a dealer The Dyno is cheap the Tec is Cheap and the customer pays out the butt . WIN WIN for the dealer .
#9
Everyone here made valid points. But Just stay with me for a moment. My old bike a custom chopper { wont say which name} I had a new ignition system installed it had a carb and I had it dyno tuned. The bike ran great I never used the enricher to start it and it was a monster. But It came home with wounds. No big deal just not the way I wanted my baby treated.
Now this new bike is a 2014 heritage and I'm done with HP I will never use. { Im getting a little older..LOL} Now all I did was slip ons from V&H that the dealer put on and once I hit 1000 miles and have it serviced I will put on the SE air cleaner. So I just want a caned map to make it run correctly and stop the decel poping.. From all the post in the softail area the FP3 will do just fine. I was going with a TTS and a dyno but I just don't want someone taking my new bike to the rev limit 30 or 40 times.. 10 years ago I would have said that a dyno was the only way to dial in a bike. Times and people change. and now Im just keeping it simple.... good luck with what works for you and ride safe....swifty
Now this new bike is a 2014 heritage and I'm done with HP I will never use. { Im getting a little older..LOL} Now all I did was slip ons from V&H that the dealer put on and once I hit 1000 miles and have it serviced I will put on the SE air cleaner. So I just want a caned map to make it run correctly and stop the decel poping.. From all the post in the softail area the FP3 will do just fine. I was going with a TTS and a dyno but I just don't want someone taking my new bike to the rev limit 30 or 40 times.. 10 years ago I would have said that a dyno was the only way to dial in a bike. Times and people change. and now Im just keeping it simple.... good luck with what works for you and ride safe....swifty
#10
You should be fine with anyone of the piggybacks . A Dyno is only as good as the person doing it and how far the dealer lets them go . I have a Power Vision and like it a lot but it may be over kill for you . I agree with hitting the rev limit 30 times not with my bike thank you. I don,t ride hard or fast and don,t need my bike run that way .
At this time I,m running a Stage 2 and did a canned map from Fuel Moto . My bike runs very nice and I am happy .
At this time I,m running a Stage 2 and did a canned map from Fuel Moto . My bike runs very nice and I am happy .