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Need a better Spark Advance Map

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  #31  
Old 11-18-2014, 09:01 PM
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Jamn
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I wish I could help you out, but I'm still learning. I do know that you need to increase the fuel in the areas of pinging if you want to keep the spark advance in the same area.

Just over two weeks ago, I had Carpal Tunnel surgery on my throttle hand. Feels pretty good now. As soon as this weather gets better around here, I'm loading in my reworked map and doing some riding. I'll get back with results when I can.
 
  #32  
Old 04-19-2015, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ke5rbd
To get rid of the Decel pop you need to make the numbers in the Decel table smaller by about 0.2. It is already pretty low. The lower the numbers the richer. Also your front VE table is lean in the area where your decel is happening. Make it look like the rear VE in that area and decel will probably leave completely. All bikes have a small decel pop in the 1900 to 1800 rpm area if decelerating with the clutch engaged. It is transitioning from run conditions to idle conditions and cuts the timing and injectors off for few milliseconds if the throttle is fully closed.

The AFR table in the first two rows over to where the 13.8 starts should be around 13.8 back to 0 throttle position. Also you aren't running in closed loop in the cruise area which is 30 to 60% throttle and 2000 to 3500. I would set that area to about 14.3 or .4 max. I wouldn't run any numbers other than the cruise area above 13.8 as it will cause the engine to not cool right in low speed cruise. Also advancing the timing will help run cooler.

The start timing is all the way to the right in the 100% column in the 750 to 1000 area. Usually runs anywhere from -4 to +6. If it hesitates/kicksback it is usually too fast or weak timing. The start spark like I said is in the 100 Kpa as that table works from the Map sensor reading. At Wide Open throttle you are at 0 vacuum and that is also what the map sensor sees when the engine is not running and the ignition is on. It may move back to the left as the vacuum will build some on the starter but not much. You can change that area to 0 if you like and see what happens. The 10 in first row won't likely help anything.

As far as my thoughts, everything except the spark tables and AFR looks ok. The VE tables are ok except where the front table is too lean. I usually set my VE tables below 2000 and don't change them with the autotune. You can do it on stock engine, but I always seem to run into difficulty if I follow the datalog below 2000 with cams as it will want you to lean it too much. AS low as your timing is in idle area below 2000 it will think it is rich and try to lean it out. The VE tables are what are adjusted to change the mixture. The AFR tables are targets for closed loop. You said something about being at 100+ on the ve table and need to richen the afr table to compensate for that. They will go to 127 which is as rich as they can go. If you want to check this out change your VE's on front and rear in the idle area 0 to 15% throttle and 750 to 1250 rpms to 95 and watch what happens when you start it. Don't change your afr tables. If you need more proof change them to 60 in that area and it probably won't even run there. Put them back to where they were then change your afr to 14.6 which is lean in same area and observe what happens. Then change it to 12.5 which is very rich and see if you can detect any change. On a dyno with active AFR control it will make a difference, but not on our map.
A lot of good info there...
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