I currently have the Digital Fuel pack on my ride. Ported and polished heads with over sized valves, rush 7017 HO headers, and a 551 cam. V&H gave me a new MAP to use after i added the headers, and first run after installing the new MAP it runs like Crap. Lots of decell pop, even between gears. Pops is very loud Runs hella rough around 2500 to 3500 RPM. Does any one have a decent map for something similar to what I have? I plan on getting it dyno tuned eventually, but need to save money for that first. It really feels like it has less power now that I changed headers. Before using the stock header, with cats, it pulled pretty well, now doesn't seem to pull that hard. Not sure if it's the Map or the headers at this point. Currently running the V&H FP-4487 MAP I was hoping someone has a proven MAP that will work for me. I also smell a lot of exhaust gasses now. O2 probes are disconnected per V&H. I can't ride it like this.

 

Just bumping this thread in hopes of finding a MAP that works

 

I think you're looking for a map---not a MAP. I know you probably don't want to hear it but with your mods on your engine, I'd ditch the Fuelpak and get a real tuner and a Dyno tune. JMO

 

Yea, the FP was just a bridge until I got all the work finished. Now trying to get the money together for the dyno tune. I am a bit confused between a "MAP", and a "map" though.

 

IIRC the FP is for mainly different stage 1 bikes.. You are way beyond that with heads and cam.. You'll need a flash tuner and dyno tune or Tmax.. I'd contact Jamie at Fuelmoto for more info.. He advertises here.. The other option is to contact your local dyno facility and take the bike there for a tune.

 

"Digital fuel pak? Are you using the Fp3 or the older "pod" type fuel pak?

 

IMO if the bike is rideable with the stock exhaust I would definitely run the stockers.
Why? The rush headers you have now cause the engine to run lean (like crap) above about 2500 because you've allowed the engine more air without adding more fuel.
Since you also have new cams there will be TOO MUCH fuel down low now because the engine is not as efficient at low rpms as it was with the stock cams.
PROPERLY recalibrated (tuned) for proper AFR and timing in all rpms and throttle positions is the only way to get your bang for the buck you've spent.
Unfortunately there is no GOOD way to bandaide (cheap fix) you're bike that will make it run good.
If you somehow found a map for your exact build AND exhaust it MAY be close enough to ride the bike but it'll be a crap shoot at best.

Not custom tuning a new performance build and being satisfied is like eating cake batter out of the bowl before baking it. It's kinda good tasting but it sure tastes a lot better after it's properly cooked.

Just like cooks there are good ones and there are not-so-good ones. We hear of a good restaurant so we go there. If we have a good experience we share. If we had a bad experience we share.
We should decide where/who to tune our bikes based on what others say about how their experience and how the bikes ran before and after the tune.
JMO, Bob

 

it is the older digital on, where you enter numbers for the map. Looks like I am going to have to go get a dyno. I did find some exhaust leaks yesterday, which I am sure are contributing. Took the headers off and replaced with new gaskets. Seems no leaks now. Will try to get out and run it this week, but it is going to be a HOT MF all week it looks like.

 

MAP? you're having problems with the MAP sensor?

oh I get it.. your calibration, you're having problems with the V&H calibration.


What year bike?
What size valves?
What mufflers?
What size motor?
What elevation are you typically?


anyways, post up the info requested and the calibration file too please and we'll see if we can help you.

 

I hope you can. I just ordered a Power Commander 5 in hopes that will help me out down the road. but for now I need to get it running with this digital fuel pack, enough so I can ride it.