I have 99 problems & I hate to say...my bike is one.

My 98' EVO Ultra Classic is having an issue with the throttle. I think it could be the fuel injection ...maybe the cruise control.
I believe that this is the first year of the EFI? The Delphi set up?

75,000 on the bike, never any issues at all. Till' now.

The red check engine light comes on, then the throttle will just stay WTFO. It happens out of the blue. At various times. At idle at lights, down shifting, etc.

The throttle will just open up and the engine wants to just over rev & keep going. I pull the clutch in & kill the engine. Re-start, then I am good.

It can happen after just 5 miles on the bike. Sometimes after 200 miles.

I keep my air filter clean, cables look good, no kinks, etc, could this be electrical? I run good gas, change my plugs as I should.
I never use the cruise if this helps.

Any help would be great.

 

Your bike has a Magneti Marelli fuel injection system. They were an option on 1995 - 2001 HD touring bikes.

First thing first. Try pulling any trouble coded. There is a key on/off sequence that will make the engine light flash to enable trouble codes. That will possibly tell you what is wrong. Some issues will not throw a code.

You can also try re synching the Idle Air Control (IAC) motor to the ECM. There is a key on/off sequence for that as well.

You can also try cleaning the IAC and the air bleeds. The air bleeds are two small holes in the upper mouth of the throttle body.

If all of that fails to cure your bike's ills then I would suspect one of two things. Either the IAC or ETS are bad. Check what I suggested and check back here. PM me will probably give a faster response time.

 

I just did the key re-code...I think.

I did the on/off sequence 11 times.
the first & last time there were no red indicator codes flashing. All of the other times there was different varations of red flasing codes.
So on that last sequence the light stayed off after initial load up (as I call it) then I shut it back to off then started the bike, started fine & no fluctuation at cold start idle. She idles at just a little below 10.

I will have to take her for a ride today to see if it happens again. I am also going to clean the spots you indicated before the ride.

I hope I got the key sequence correct.

I thank you for all the help on this.

 

It is still doing the same thing, just worse. The part with the arm functions great. Could it be the thing on the throttle body with the 3 wire plug?

 

Read through this thread:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignit...lease-help.htm

The "thing" with The three wire plug is the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). I strongly advise you not to attempt,pt to adjust it just now.

 

Do a search for Temperature Sensor failure.

My '96 FLHRI started doing this last week. All the searches I did came up with a Temperature Sensor on the front jug. All posts indicated that the sensor will not show a code reading. When I replaced mine I went ahead and replaced the fuel line check valves and o rings for a fuel leak while I was at it. Wish I did not do that at the same time. Any way the bike did start up and did sound better but the fuel lines are toast and were leaking worse at the swivel joint than when I started so I had to shut her down. Now as soon as the new fuel lines get here I can find out if indeed that corrected the problem.

 

The link will not work. Thanks for the help. I wanna' figure this part out and fix asap
We were in Flagstaff AZ , 150 miles from home and she did this. It sucked.
She just revved up and would just stay that way until I killed the engine. Then would not start, usualyy she would just start right back up.

I call a mechanic I know back in Ohio & he says to pull the plug & try starting. She did, ran like ****, so I pulled over and put the plug back in. She did not rev up like that again and we somehow made it the hell home.

 

BMOTOXSTAR, I am going to reply to your PM here so that it may help others. You mentioned that you were out for a ride, and got stranded. The bike was hard starting, and when it did it would simply rev out. You disconnected the TPS, and it stated, but ran poorly. You reconnected the TPS, and it started and ran normally to get you home. Now you want to know if you should replace the TPS.

You can, but chances are that is not the culprit as it ran normally and got you home after plugging it back in.

You should diagnose the problem, and not play substitution mechanic. That is unless you have an endless supply of funds, in which case replace the whole system.

Kidding aside. Start at the beginning. I suspect either the IAC, or the ETS.

1) Try resynching the IAC you the ECM. Disconnect the battery for 30 min. Then reconnect the battery, and kill switch to RUN. Turn key switch to on for 5 sec (about 2 sec after the fuel pump stops running), then OFF for 3 sec. Repeat this once.

2) Restart the bike now. You should see the IAC move when it starts. When you turn the bike off the IAC should move out, then back in. If it doesn't either the IAC is bad or the connector is.

3) Clean the air bleeds which are the two small holes at the top of the mouth of the throttle body. Put the straw from a can of throttle body cleaner in there and give it a few good squirts. While you have the air cleaner off clean the IAC too. If it did not work before it may after cleaning the gunk off of the armature.

4) Measure the resistance on the ETS. Do a search on the forum for ETS chart if you do not have the service manual. It lists the resistance that the ETS should show under different ambient temperatures.

Report back what you find.

 

Thanks for taking the time to help me diagnosis the issue.
I did all the above steps (disconnect battery, on/off sequence, cleane dthe holes,etc).

Same thing happens.

I keep checking the error code, I get 25. I searched all over & no 25 code. I did the steps twice to make sure of the codes I was reading.

I am having a hard time understanding the last step of what you said to check. The volts outside when the bike is off and test the wires with a meter?

Once again, I thank you on this. I just don't feel right not working on my own bike if it is something that I do not need a bike lift to fix, plus I do not have the cabbage to have a mechanic fix it nor the $ to just throw at parts guessing. Like you said, don't be one of those guys.

Thanks again for the help, I know ya' have a life outside of the forums.

 

I am reading what you are telling me, like you were saying you suspect the
either the IAC, or the ETS.