I just finished the install of a Fuel Moto 107 big bore kit on my 2010 SG. I opted for the Level B headwork and a set of TW-777 cams. I’ll be using my TTS MasterTune to tune the bike. Will someone using a TTS MasterTune with this build (or similar) provide me with a copy of their TTS calibration? It would help me greatly because I can use it as a base map for break in and a starting point for my calibration. Thank you in advance.

 

Use one for the 110 CVO from the TTS library file. It will be about as close as you can get from anyone else for a donor calibration.

 

Have you asked Fuel Moto?! We hear nothing but good about their customer support.

 

Kind of doubt they would be a big help with this one.

To the OP, Wiz's advice sounds correct. Do NOT lower the cubes to 107, either. Leave it set at 110 or whatever the cal lists.

Run the cam tool right from the jump.

 

I did ask Fuel Moto, but they do not support the TTS anymore. They've gone strictly to the Power Commander, which is a disappointment in my case.

 

There are no 110 calibrations with a cam set that closely matches the lift/duration of the TW-777 cams. Per the TTS guidance in their manual, you are supposed to chose a calibration with a cam set close to your build. There is a 103 build with a SE 258 cam that is as close as I can find to the TW-777, but I wonder if I'd be better to select a 110 calibration and then run the cam tool. Any thoughts?

 

That's correct BB. Consider this though.

There are some 200 internal set points, software switches if you will, located inside each TTS library calibration either turn on or off by TTS. With a 107 and a 777 cam you really need a calibration that breathes. 110 heads have a larger exhaust valve and a 255 cam. This will make up for the 777 cam somewhat.

Go ahead and flash the 110 cal in and do the cam tune recording then set your IVO. Make a VTune-001 cal and reset the IVO#. Flash that. Warm up your bike in the garage and do a beginning VTune watching the histogram screen. Fill in as many cells as you can comfortably. When the bike gets to 280* stop the recording and shut down the bike.

VTune that data and generate a new cal. Flash that and see how she idles.

If you are not satisfied with that then choose another library calibration but do not go overboard. It's best to choose a lesser calibration than one that is too big.

 

Do you recommend the file for the stock 110 build with an A/C (Calibration file "ETA009-03") as the best starting point?

 

Here is something most do not stop to think about much. Those of us that know, usually think everybody 'gets it'. But they actually don't.

Looking at the DUH calibration. One sees 550" Lift 211/235 Duration cam shaft.

Those that know, know that is a Screaming Eagle 255 cam. Looking at EUE, one sees .609" Lift 263/269 Duration. That is a Screaming Eagle 260 camshaft.

I bring this up for a reason. TTS used to make the original SERT for HD. When they went thru separate ways.... TTS had to be very careful stating anything HD related in the literature. By Steve listing the camshafts used in a calibration in this method, folks get the idea that lift and duration is the criteria used.

It is not.

It is the TIMING events of those cams. Its all about the cam timing events like Intake close, Intake open, even more so! Exhaust timing, LSA, overlap, etc.

I, myself, know what the various cams are, usually, and I go to Big Boyz website, I use the cam clculators, and pop up whatever cam is going in the bike - vs- the various SE grinds. I look for cams with closest to the one going into the bike. Get it?

Anyway, I would try the two following calibrations for that build. There is NO TTS calibration that is close to that cam, either.

I would try DTW009-03 and I would also try DTU009-03. For either, make the cubic inches 110 inches... this is for a little VE 'headroom". Load either cal, let the bike warm up and run the cam tool, while engine is nice and warm. Let bike cool off and set the setting to match the cam tool run.

Start the bike when cool, but not all the way cold and see how it starts and idles.

Do the same to the other calibration.

What one starts and idles better? Pick THAT calibration for the one you want to try.

Well, thinking you may have the bike apart. Run a DTW009-03, for start up. Set to 110 cubic inches. Are you going to heat cycle the bike or do a mototune break in?

If doing heat cycles? Third heat cycle, start v-tune with the bike and the bike should now be allowed to get hot enough to catch a bit of idle. Make a new calibration from that. Then... ANY time you ride the bike, even for the first time, and keep revs low and see if you can catch any good green areas on the Histogram. If you have a couple green cells, see how much % the cells moved more or less. Then change all of the rest of the cells under 2500 rpm to reflect that % drop or increase.

Where i see issues from members when doing break ins... the bike will be flat *** pig rich and THAT kills a break in.

 

The "DTW009-03" is actually the calibration that I started with, but I set the displacement to the actual displacement of 107 (actually 106.6), not 110. I heat cycled the engine 5 times using this configuration and I rode it about 50 miles afterwards before dumping the dino oil. During the ride I stayed under 3k RPM. I've since changed back to synthetic, but haven't had a chance to do any more riding or tuning because my stupid computer keeps losing communication with the bike during V-tuning. I couldn't find the "DTU009-03" file that you mentioned.