Well, I jumpe dinto my first HD build. I have owned a Fatboy since 2005 and plenty of metric bikes over the years. I have also built many metric bikes (choppers, bobbers, stockers, etc...) however, this is my first attempt at an old ironhead.

I bought a basket case project a friend had started about 5 years ago but never finished. He sold off several things off the stock bike and purchased a paugcho rigid frame (mechanical brakes) and a chrome frontend for it but that is as far as he got.

Here are a few pics of the day I picked it up...






As you can see the unpainted frame collected quite a bit of rust over the years. The motor ran strong before he tore it down and I witnessed it running. Has set for 5 years though. Still turns over good.

Also bought a 76 XLCH and working on parting it out and robbing some parts that I might need.

 

I took the frame to get sand blasted and it turned out good. No pitting and I was suprised. I went ahead for now and put some primer on it to keep from rusting again.

Swapped the mis-matched wheels from the 76 onto it, installed front end (need dust caps for neck cups though) and made a roller. I had several tanks laying around I like the looks of this one the best. Alo had the seat and springs on the shelf already.

This is what it looks like now.

 

I have a few things I have to figure out and that is where this board comes into play...lol

This is a wide glide frontend and had the axle with it. however, no spacers... Anyone know the size of spacers I need to convert from narrow glide to wide glide?

Also having issues with the wheels...

The rear is a 16" and front is a 19". I don't like the way the front of the bike is sitting higher. I thought first of lowering the frontend but leaning more towards going to a rear 18" wheel. I also thought I would go with mag wheels cause I kind of liked them but not sure how it would look with chromed out frontend. Sooo.... I started looking for a spoke 18" rear wheel to go with current 19" I got. Not having much luck finding an 18" spoke for drum brakes. The one I do have has a 5 hole bolt pattern for disc brakes. The brake drum bolts on with 8 bolt pattern.

Any thoughts? Do they make anything for conversion or anyone got a source for an 18" spoke wheel that will accept my drum brake?


and sorry in advace for so many questions right out the gates. I guess I am just excited about the build and loving the looks of it so far.

 

To begin with, you state you are building a 1969 XLCH. I have to ask you.....Where is it?
The two bikes you show on the trailer are not 1969 models. The engine that you installed in the rigid frame is a 1971 or newer.
The bike with the red/white front fender is not a 1969 model either. If the clutch cable goes into the primary cover like the rigid frame model it is 1971 or newer.
If the clutch cable goes into the right side sprocket cover then it is a 1970 model.
.
Well, to address your questions as best as I can......
This is a wide glide frontend and had the axle with it. however, no spacers... Anyone know the size of spacers I need to convert from narrow glide to wide glide?
I seriously doubt anyone on this forum will be able to give you the length of spacers you need for the front wide glide set up, so why don't you calculate it out yourself?

Start with the location of the disc bolted to your wheel compared to the location of the outside face of the left wheel bearing. The disc has to set in the caliper which is bolted to the left fork, so this is a 'fixed ' point.
1)Just lay a straight edge across the disc and make a direct measurement to the bearing (where the spacer will butt against) and then subtract half the thickness of the disc from that. The result will be the centerline of disc to bearing distance. Write it down.

2) Now measure the distance from the centerline of disc to the inside face of the left fork. Again, this is also a fixed distance because of the caliper location. Add this and measurement 1 together.
This gives you the length of the left side spacer.

3) Now measure through the hub to get the width from left bearing to right bearing. Write it down.

4)Measure the distance from the inside of the left fork to the inside of the right fork and write it down.

5) Now, subtract the length of the left spacer and subtract the width of the hub from the fork to fork distance and the result is the length of spacer needed on the right side.
If your wheel is trued up centered over the hub as it should be, the tire will be right dead center between the forks and centered under the front fender as well.

Regarding the rear wheel.....
I am not sure what you are wanting to get. The pic shows the bike with 7 spoke wheel (or some call this a mag wheel) and the drum brake.
Are you trying to find a 'spoked' 18 inch wheel to use with a drum brake? By 'spoked' I mean a wheel with 40 real spokes and nipples, like your front wheel is.
If that is what you want you need a hub, 40 spokes and nipples, and an 18 inch rim. This size wheel came standard on thousands of Sportsters so it should be easy find such a wheel on Ebay.

If I misunderstood you, forgive me.
pg

 

Here is what a rear hub looks like (standing on end in the middle) and in the pic the brake drum side is pointed up.



pg

 

Agree with PG engine or frame can't be -69... as PG wrote engine is newer than -71 witch is easy to check. Look VIN# first 2 digits tells you model and last 2 digits tells you year.

 

Interesting? The title states 1969 900cc XLCH. The motor numbers match the title. OEM frame had no numbers on neck. The number on motor starts with XLCH but at work now and don't remember the rest??? Will check and post it up when I get home. Is it possible for somone to have changed the primary only? I would think that would have been quite involved and not sure why someone would go to that trouble? Any other identiying characteristics besides the numbers I could look for? I am curious if the numbers on the motor are original???

The red/white bike is a 76. Was told it was a 72 but after running the numbers through an online decoder it appears it is a 76 XLCH. I remember the VIN on it starts with "4A" and last 2 digits were "H6". Frame and engine match on it as well.

 

WOW! Thank you greatly for the detailed answer. I have centered many wheels over the years and never really put that much effort in it. Normally just measure once the wheel is on the axle and go from there. This should make things a bit easier!

 

I think you got what I was asking. I realize the rear is a 7 spoke or mag. I have also been told it was a "morris" mag? Doesn't really matter to me. Just would like to get a matching set. Will also need to do some image searching for mag "7 spoke" wheels (powdercoated) with a chrome frontend. Not sure if I would like the look or not and that is whay I was asking about a 40 spoke wheel.

Thinking 40 spoke would be the way to go. Was hoping to find a source for a complete 40 spoke wheel already with drum brake hub as you pictured above. Not been having much luck.

 

In -69 XLCH VIN should start 69XLCHxxxx (= XLCH Super 'CH' 55 OHV Twin )


More info : http://www.sportster.org/history/

Vin in years 1903 - 1969

VIN example 49FL1234.
The VIN in those years is very easy to decode it.
The first two digits which are numbers shows the year of product. The
next 1,2,3 or 4
digits which are letters shows the model and the last 4 digits, which
are number shows
the sequential number.
So for the example 49FL1234 it mean that we have a bike of the year
1943 and is a model
FL, and is a 74 cu. in. Solo Twin -With Hydraulic Fork- Over Head
Valves with sequential
number 1234.