A few days ago I installed 13 inch apes on my 2015 RGS. The install went fine until the very end when I had to install the controls to the bars. The way the brake and clutch were oriented the banjo bolts on both sides were touching the new bars. I loosened the banjo bolt and shifted the banjo bolts so they cleared the bars. Everything went back together fine but I did get a few drops of fluid from the clutch side. Now whenever I start the bike if it's in 1st gear she jumps forward a little. They already did the clutch recall prior to me doing the bars so I don't think it's the recall issue. It has to be what I did. What's the fix? Do I need to bleed the hydraulic clutch?
TIA

 

Unless you accidentally introduced some air into the system, there should be no clutch issue related to your bar swap. Well, unless the line is getting kinked somewhere else down the line.

It is a closed system (the hydraulic clutch), just like a brake system. If a few drops of fluid leak out when you crack it open, that's better than having the opposite happen, getting air in. If air got in, then the lever will have a slightly spongy effect on the clutch actuation. If no air got in, then it will simply self-correct the fluid level from the master cylinder.

Now, the jumping forward a little when cold starting in gear...that's pretty typical.

If the clutch operates well in all other respects, I doubt you've caused any trouble by moving that banjo bolt.

If you're bothered by it though, you can try bleeding the clutch system and seeing if it starts without moving in gear. If yours does that, be very happy.

All the best,

Shane

 

Thanks for the quick reply Shane. It was definitely a cold start. The bike has been sitting for about a month, so maybe I'll let it be till I can get out for a decent ride and see how it reacts.

 

I get a slight "tug" when I start my 15 Limited in gear, so I'd say what you're feeling is normal...

 

Yeah, pretty much every bike (with a wet clutch) that sits for a month will have some degree of clutch drag at startup.

Some so much that the plates have to break free of each other before the clutch will function at all.

Shane

 

The real easy fix is start the bike in neutral. It won't move forward and it won't drag your starter either.

 

When the temps are colder outside they will jump a little more until the lube is heated up. Mine will do it when the temps are warm the first time I start it but after you get things moving around in there they will not jump.

 

As any Service Manager at a Dealership will tell you "That's normal, they all do that!" In this case he wouldn't be lying! All of my Harley's have done that on a cold startup in gear, that's why I start it in neutral, easy on the starter and all moving parts in the primary and trans.

 

I usually do start it in neutral, but I had it parked on an incline so I left it in gear.
I feel way better now knowing I don't have to bleed the clutch. I looked up the procedure in my service manual, sounds like a PIA.

 

Also clunks a lot less if you hold the clutch in for 10 seconds or so before you clunk it in gear instead of just going for it right after you pull in the clutch, mine sometimes doesn't clunk at all doing this ... lets the gears wind down.