Submitted By TCSTD:

Oil Cooler made simple (pics to follow) Here's the pics for now also this is the reference for the following: http://silvercrow.com/performance/oilcooler.htm

The function of an oil cooler is to obviously cool oil. However there are factors involved that make the previous statement a little more complex. A TC88 uses engine oil for lubrication as well as for internal cooling of the lower cylinders and piston bottoms. In this modern age of internal combustion engines maintaining proper heat ranges of engine parts leads to longer life, lower emissions and better mileage. When oil temps rise above 230df the detergents and additives begin to deteriorate and loose effectiveness. As the temperature increases the longevity of these additives decreases. At about 300df the additives are all but oxidized and the oil has little lubrication qualities left in comparison to the lubrication available at 200df. By 400df petroleum oils are oxidizing, thickening, and volatiles are boiling off causing part of what is known as "oil consumption". This causes the volume of oil to decline and heat to rise even more. This makes the problem of excess heat carried by the oil even greater. Add to this the oil is now coating and baking on to most of the internal engine parts creating the first layers of varnish and sludge. Piston rings begin to collect the super heated oil and carbon forms from the oxidized oil leaving rings to freeze and loose their sealing properties.

If oil is kept too cool it can have detrimental effects as well. Oil below 212df will not boil off acids that form during combustion and condensation. Oil below 212df will vaporize acids more slowly than boiling however the process becomes slower as temperature drops. Below 150df oil has not thinned properly to provide for optimum lubrication and has a slow acid vaporization. Oil below 50df may not be thin enough to provide adequate flow through passages or may even promote moisture or condensation depending on ambient weather conditions.

Synthetic and multiviscosity oils give the greatest range of proper lubrication. Synthetics add almost 100df to the range of oil usability compared to petroleum plus are pourable to below -50df.

The following is a photo essay of a quick and inexpensive oil cooler installation. There are other types available and each has its own efficiency ratings. That subject is for another chapter in "Oil Cooler".

Engine Guard Oil Cooler

Remove and measure for inlet/outlet hole plus drain.

Drill 11/32" holes for 1/8" pipe tap.

Tap holes with 1/8" pipe tap using caution and being conscious of depth.

Clean ALL METAL fragments and chips from inside of engine guard. Use a bore light to illuminate interior of tube. Rinse with solvent to double clean any debris that may be present.

Install oil cooler base making sure all surfaces are clean.

Install fittings and drain plug as needed in engine guard.

Finish attaching hoses and routing oil lines.

Install oil filter and fill with oil. Start engine and check for leaks.

Ride on. The oil cooler is almost hidden and can barely be noticed without close inspection. The engine guard is now the oil cooler. There is no worries about rock damage on the highway plus in this case the bike now carries 1.5qt. more oil. Total oil is 4.75qt with filter.

The thermostat used is a Lockhart DP-180. It starts to flow oil to the cooler at 160df and is full open at 180df. While riding the highway under fully loaded conditions the oil maintains at 175df with almost no variation. The engine guard is warm on the supply side and cool on the return side. The guard can be hand held easily. The extra 1.5 qt of oil acts as a heat sink with the thermostat allowing the mixing of cool oil into the engine hot oil in a balance to maintain the 175df temperature. This mixing of hot and cool oil offers the benefit of almost no oil oxidization due to eng

 

I know this is an old post. But, I used the same size oil fittings that is on my engine and transmission so as to not to restrict the oil flow and some 7/16 inside DIA hose to turn my engine guard into an oil cooler with no thermostat. Cost me about $30.

 

I have been running crash-bar coolers for over 20 years....it's not a new invention. I do have a thermostat on mine and it is plumbed with aircraft (AN) fittings and stainless steel braided hose.

I guess I had to go for the "high dollar" method.

 

All,

After a 30 minute ride from work to home 10 miles. Head temps were 275f, hose leaving motor was 165f, bottom of left inlet of guard was 118f, the exit end of guard was 111f the out side temp was 94f. these measurements are from a cheap infrared thermometer.

Soon as I repair my rear shift lever I'll take some reading after about a 2 hour ride into by God West Virginia. I posted some pic of my oil guard experiment on my facebook.

 

That's interesting Okie. I have never been one for running about taking oil temperatures, but I will enjoy your research. What I have discovered is that you need good oil pressure to force the oil around through the crash bar. An oil cooler of any type is in-itself restrictive to flow. About the most "open" heat-sink you could get would be the crash bar, but you do have to pump the oil up and around through there.

In reality, from the numbers you have posted...your oil is not even getting hot enough to need cooling. Do you have a thermostat in the line, or are you just letting it all free flow through the crash bar? Is this a TC or an EVO? Oil needs to be up there around 200 or so for normal operation. Most cooler stats are set to "start" opening at 180.

 

1550vt,

No thermostat and I used the 7/16 in side diameter H-D fittings and 7/16 inside diameter hose too. How could the oil not be getting hot enough? The heads run at least 275f with out being in traffic they run over 300f the oil is being pumped though the heads and being sprayed on the bottom of the pistons pulling heat from the pistons so how it the oil not getting hot enough? I usually ride for hours during the weekend so so all the oil should have plenty of time to go through the heads and oil cooler. I did not use a thermostat because they can fail and I did not want to add four connections that could leak or fail. I wanted to make it simple as possible, two hoses and four clamps. Its simple and it works. I'm planning to ride my 05 Road Glide around the Grand Canyon and eventually from cost to coast. So I'm wanting her to be as bomb proof as possible. I've only been able to put 15200 miles on her since I bought her two years ago. Will continue to keep you posted on my findings. I two weeks I'll be replacing the striped rear shift lever with a stronger stainless steel BetterLever.

Later
Phillip

 

I think I put it the wrong way, or misunderstood. Your measurement on the crash bar is an "indication" of how hot your oil is, but not how hot it actually is. Based on the 118 in and the 111 out...your crash bar is shedding 7-degrees of heat.

What I mean by not having a thermostat is, this winter your oil may actually be too cold for proper operation. I am no chemical engineer, but oil needs to be 200-degrees and higher. I think ideal oil temperatures ought to be in the 225-250 range. If you do not have a thermostat in the loop, you stand a chance of not letting your oil get to proper operating temperature. The results of running the oil too cold is condensation and sludge build-up.

I think your fine.....until it gets cold up your way. The early oil coolers did not have thermostats and the old-timers had a cover to slip over the cooler in cold weather.

I think your fittings and hose sizes are fine. I'd just recommend a thermostat. I am attaching a picture of mine.

 

1550vt,

Nicely done! My riding buddies express the same concerns as you. When its cool I'll slip my soft lowers over my engine guard. I'm using Mobil 1 20-50 V-Twin which has excellent penetration flow at extremely low temps so I'm not too worried. Last winter the hot side was still too hot to handle. But, I did not have the infrared thermometer to take measurements. This winter I'll use a better thermometer and report back my findings. I change my oil filter at 3000 and then change my oil at 5000 miles. I was surprised at how well the oil looked at 5000 miles. I placed it in a clean jug and will filter it threw a couple of layers of a clean white T-shirt to see how much metal I get.

Thanks for posting the picture.
Later
Phillip

 

From the picture, one would think it's pretty obnoxious, but you really have to be looking for it to find it. I simply despise hose-clamps of any kind. I just tell everybody it's a thermonucelarturbonicalconvectionconduitvalveaccum ulator. They generally just walk away.

I haven't a clue as to how much heat I am shedding, but I do know on hot days, oil is circulating around the loop and it's warm. It works!

 

Great idea!