Does anyone have any experience with the upgraded SE Heavy duty clutch vs. the Variable Pressure (centrifugal) clutch? I'm about to build the top end on my 103 and add cams and trying to make the decision whether or not to spend the extra $220 for the Variable Pressure. How much harder does the Heavy Duty make the clutch lever to pull in and how does it compare in regards to slipping? Any info would be great.

 

My 2010 Street Glide stage II 103 makes 92 hp and 106 torque. To date the stock clutch with Screamin Eagle diaphragm spring has been adequate and the pull not significantly harder than stock. The bike is nearing 20,000 miles and I have been noticing a little slip in higher RPM but it has been a while since I adjusted the clutch.

My 2006 Street Bob with the SE 120r makes 139.92 hp and 133.7 tq, it has Screamin Eagle kevlar plates and steels, with an upgraded (heavier than Screamin Eagle) diaphragm spring and an AIM Variable pressure clutch with the billet pressure plate option. Pull is heavier than stock but not too much, the variable pressure clutch does add additional pull when shifting at higher RPM due to the added clamping force the clutch applies at higher revs. Clutch works very well.

If you are going to stick with the 2-2 exhaust, you will leave a little HP and TQ on the table so a beefier clutch spring with good plates may be enough??

 

Thanks 12! I think I will try the $30 spring first through break-in and if, at that point, I feel like it's too heavy, I'll swap to the Variable Pressure Clutch.

 

That' what I did since no one could describe the pull of SE clutch spring. At first the SE clutch pull didn't seem that bad, but after a couple of weeks my wrist hurt. So I landed up using clutch spring strength somewhere between the stock spring and the SE spring and installed a VPC. For me it's the best of both worlds.

 

I just recently switched to the SE VPC. 103 putting 92/113. It eliminated my WOT slippage and still very easy sitting in traffic.

I had rode a friends with the heavy spring and could tell in the long run I wouldn't like it.

 

JMHO but don't waste time/money with the spring; clutch will eventually start to slip if the motor makes 100+TQ which is not a problem with 103" displacement.

I run the AIM VPC and easy pull ramp in a built all bore 107", 2002 FLHT. Heavy bike, plenty of power but no slip and easy pull.

 

I went with the SE Hvy Dty spring on a stage II 103 and it gave me Carple Tunnel real bad, still bothers me. Cours I rode 16K miles with it in about 13 months.

I went back to stock and no slipping.

My new 103 stage II has the stock spring and no slipping. Have no dyno sheet but similar builds to mine are near 100hp and 110 tq.

 

I went with VPC and the Mueller Power Clutch. The VPC is suppose to lighten the pull some and the MPC lightens it even more.

 

After installing a SE 103 stage two kit in my 2011 96 ci FLHR I liked the extra power the motor had and the way it ran but I *did notice* the extra effort it took to pull in the clutch lever with the stronger SE clutch spring that came with the kit and was installed by the dealer. I could notice the extra tension on the clutch to pull the lever in especially in stop and go traffic around the city here where I live.
So,
I decided to use the Variable Pressure Clutch (VPC) in my 2013 Ultra Limited (FLHTK) when I recently had SE 255 cams and SE adjustable push rods installed instead of the stronger SE clutch spring, or converting to a hydraulic clutch instead of the cable that the bike came with.

This Variable Pressure Clutch was the best move I made and no clutch slippage !

I used the factory clutch spring that my FLHTK came with, (very easy to pull in) in my opinion even easier than the pull of the new Rushmore Hydraulic Clutches.

I also noticed it does seem to shift easier when traveling into the upper gears and also go into neutral easier as the other have already mentioned in the other reviews.
This was a very good choice for me and it was well worth the price to be able to keep my *easy to pull factory clutch spring* in that my bike came with.

HOWEVER;

The gasket that came with the VPC started leaking after a couple short trips to the store (about a 100 miles or so). I have the Live to Ride 103 Derby Cover and it was a Saturday after the dealer had closed the service Dept. till Monday.
I wanted to ride Sunday so I took the Derby Cover off, cleaned it, and clean the gasket good and used RTV gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket and put it back together.
The oil leak stopped.
It's been a couple weeks now and about 500 miles later. No leak.
The serving Dealer did offer to change gasket for me but agreed the way I sealed it with the RTV sealer it would be fine till the next service is due for an oil change.
Again,

I Hope this helps others as it did myself.

 

I had noticed some slippage in 5th and 6th gears if I got on it with the stock spring. Have 20k on my 2010 SG, Maybe need disks soon,But instead I threw in the Heavy Duty SE spring, Wow what a difference, It really hooks up good. Pull is quite a bit heaver, But I got used to it in a few days. I'll be able to crush rocks with my left hand soon. So today as a precautionary effort I'm installing a HD Diamondback Cable. Seems like a good idea just because adding that much more pressure on my old cable may stress it too much.Just in case. You can't just replace one of these cables on the side of the road. Have to pull headers off. You'd think they would have designed that better.