I have looked online, and in three different manuals to find out how the solenoid plunger is affixed to the solenoid shifter lever. The plunger shaft has two pins. One near the plunger body and one at the end. The spring and retainer cap is held in place by the one on the end. The shifter lever that the plunger arm goes through is slotted. Does the inner most pin on the plunger arm go on the inside of the shifter lever or on the outside? The shifter lever is slotted and given that, logic would dictate that the inner most pin slides through towards the starter drive gear. However it is sloppy and loose. If I try and the key word is try, to put the pin on the outside of the shifter lever the spring is tight and its a real trick putting in the cap retainer pin at the end. To me this is what would make sence but what is that slot in the shifter lever for? Wouldn't a round hole make more sence?

The problem I have is that to orient the hole in the end of the plunger rod to insert the retainer pin you have to rotate the rod, the rear pin falls through the slot in the shifter lever. Its a real dumb set up and I cant find a schematic or photo or anything on line that actually shows where that inner most pin should be.

randy

 

I Actually was able to get the spring and everything on proper and it works as it is supposed to. One big problem I have had and still do is that the starter shaft will come out of the starter it self. It then of course jams in the gear and wont return. I have the brass washer on the end but it still appears to come out too far. The only difference in this bike from when I first got it, is that I put an aluminum outer primary on it instead of the steel one. Is it possible that the mating surface of the brass washer is farther out than the original steel cover. Could I double up on the brass washer? Help, this thing is just about done. I got the solenoid, relay and now the starter drive gear working. And yes it is in the guide of the starter lever.

thanks

randy

 

Just a thought…the steel outer is/was an aftermarket item. Think first I would put that one back on and see if your starter system functions properly. If it does the problem has to be with the aluminum primary you are using.

Other thing you can do is take off the aluminum one, set them side by side, and using a straightedge across the surface, measure the depth of the two. A deeper setting in the aluminum one could point to the problem.


If it functioned properly before with the steel outer, then someone set the depth of the needle bearing in the aluminum too deep.

Um and I need to ask, is the primary you have mounted one of those made by "lifeline"? heard some horror stories about them.

Is yours OEM? If so are you certain it is not for a rear belt drive rather than a rear chain drive. If OEM the part # will be on the inside.

 

Panz, I did that first just to make sure and both are the same depth however the aluminum boss appears to be oblong a bit if you know what I mean and the center of the needle bearing is about 1\16 of an inch forward to the front more than the steel cover.. I also placed the steel on the bike without a gasket and it rolled fine so perhaps both are too deep. Not sure but the width of the gasket seems to hold it out farther. So Im going to dry doubling up on the brass washer as it is the same thickness. The aluminum has a part number on it, so it is OEM and the steel one doesn't.


Randy

 

Randy both the steel and aluminum are set up to be used with a gasket along with the copper washer. With the steel it was always a PITA getting it on and keeping the washer in place.

You say it rolled fine with the steel. I would mount it with the steel (and the gasket) and start it up. If the system doesn't bind or go too far, then it is the aluminum primary that is fubar.

I will say that the depth of the bearing is different for those with rear belt drives as well as those with rear chain drives.

Belt…



Chain…

 

Panz, I know the gasket has to be there, I only put it on so see if the gasket thickness had any bearing on where the jackshaft comes out. So what I may try is to double up on the brass washer to account for the thickness of the gasket. I will snap some pics of both primaries and upload them later to show the boss.

randy

 

the rearmost pin should not fall free, try a new roll pin. I set the rear pin vertical and use a long nose plier in the cap end. Push the pliers inward, compressing the spring just enough to insert the outer pin in place .the cup retains the pin because of the spring tension.
The plate is slotted to allow it to move front to back. Using just a hole would cause the shaft to bind on the flat part of the arm.

 

The oem cover numbers should be 5 digits a dash then 2 numbers. The 2 numbers correspond to the first year that the cover was used. Example 60508-70 was the cover used on 71 to 76 FX models. It was also used on 70 and later FLH models. If it ends in 82 it is for a belt drive model. The 5 digit number may not correspond to any number in the parts book. The reason was this as a casting number and did not become a part until final machining.

 

Sure enough it ends in 82so it's for a belt drive. I did however put another washer on it and it works fine now. Does anyone have an aluminum cover for a chain drve?

 

Damn…glad you ghot it figured out, That bike is way to cool to be sitting on a stand. How many holes for the outer cover (MoCo added an extra one later years) on the inner primary? And…does it need the floor mount tab (FLH style) or is it FX style

I may be able to help you out.

Dave