My carb woes began when I decided to get rid of the rubber mount on the CV carb for the 74 Shovelhead. I didn't like the fact that there is only about 1/4 inch of carb for the rubber mount to attach to with a gear clamp. When I first got this bike it backfired and blew the carb clean off. It was suggested that I get a cv to S&S flange which I did. Of course it was not a tight fit but they said put some JB weld on it and it will work. Sure enough till the bike ran three or four times then it started backfiring again. I know now to look for intake leaks and sure enough the flange was the issue. So im done with that as im not buying another oversized flange that says its for that carb. Hence, I posted yesterday on here wanted to barter, trade, buy or otherwise find a way to get an S&S E. I have one on my 65 sporty and I have never had an issue.

Fast forward to today. Im scrounging in the back shed and by chance looked in the saddle bags that came with this bike and Holly Molly here is an old HD carb. looks like a Keihin to me but all it says is Harley Davidson and a number 02B0AC2. Has a K stamped into it and a number on top 0473. What the heck I got nothing going on today so two bolts and a gasket, one roll, starts right up and idles down. WTF, I have been screwing with this New CV for a month now and an old dusty carb started right up.

How good is this carb? What should I look for? Is a kit ok to put in or do you need a diploma in engineering to do it, which I have by the way? What's your take on this fellas? And yes I still want and S&S and I got lots to trade.

randy

 

you had another post about this and you were told correctly what jetting an EVO CV carb needed to work on a shovel - you were given the correct needle info -N 65 the correct low speed 48 to 50 depends on the spicif engine requirements < reason for the backfiring its too lean probly has a 42 in it - and the correct high speed 190 main, NOTE all of the jets / needle that work for a shovel DO NOT work for an EVO -- you need to take it apart and make the corrections --johnjzjz

 

John, I think you misunderstood or perhaps I didn't make it know clear enough what happened today. A brief history will explain it. I purchased a CV to S&S adapter at a local HD dealership. It was a special order according to them. When I put in up to the carb it was very very sloppy. Most on here say it would be a press fit with close tollerances between the back part of the carb and the inside of the flange. This was not the case. There was about 3/16" difference in the two. Obviouslly I could not take it back so I used JB weld to seal it. This worked. The backfireing stopped and all was well. I hadn't posted that so I can understand some of the discrepencies with my posts. Maybe there are two sizes of flanges but the only one my local HD dealer could get was that one.

Yesterday the bike started to backfire and yes I know it was an intake leak as it was doing what it was doing a month ago. I brushed by the carb and noticed it loose so as I was checking the bolts on the manifold I realized it had come loose or the JB weld broke loose and the carb was sucking air in so much that I could actually roatate the carb in the flange.

I had already solved the lean issue a few days before. The carb came loose. I removed the flange and decided that I would rather not screw with another one that didnt fit the way it was supposed to and I did NOT want to use the rubber mount hence the reason I put the one I found on. The CV worked and worked well until the flange broke loose. Had nothing to do with jetting as the previous owner had used this carb via rubber mount a year before.

To make a long story short, CV carbs may be the best but im not mounting a monster like that on a 1/4 inch rubber mount and im not dropping another 30 bucks taking a chance on another oversized flange that the dealer was only able to get me. Hope this clears up some things.

randy

 

the adapters i have installed have the regular seal used on an evo carb stock, both sporty and BT so i am not sure what you have

its a -88 part number and is the seal between the carb and the stock manifold spicket as it is tight to the both of them and makes the seal

 

Further to this ongoing thread, I have got the bike starting rather easily now with the Keihin on it. If im unable to find a S&S I may stay with this. Starts right up and idles very well. The bike gets hot and it begin so pop in the exhaut a little when idleing. I have checked and double checked for intake leaks and Im confidant there are none. I used raw Acetelyne around the manifold, gasket and heads. No leaks at all. Is it possible the coil may be breaking down when it is hot. If I shut it down for even 1 min or less, I can start it right up and it idles then in about four or five min it starts to pop again. This doesn't suggest an intake leak to me. The bike would not cool down sufficient enough to perhaps seal what ever is leaking do to the contraction of metals in 60 sec or less and if it in fact did, the same appreiciable time (60 sec or less) it should start popping again when started. Takes about three to four min. It revs nice however.

My old ironhead did this and the coil was going bad. I have an Accel on there now and it came with the bike. Is there a way to test it and or wires with an ohm meter and would it give me any insight into this?

randy

 

Just my .02 but that CV is well worth the time and effort to get it right. That stock keihin butterfly carb had me swearing many Saturdays before I finally made the switch. Hands down best mod I've done on my shovel.