Here is a project I've had in the works for a few years. Time, money and health have all been holding me from doing much on the bike until now.
Feel free to add your ideas on this build and I will try and post whats going on.
Harley swing arm frame with welded rear section.
Delkron engine case with S&S 4 3/4 stroke 3 1/2 bore should net about 91.4 cu in.
Harley 5 speed from a 1997 Softail.


Fatbob tanks? probably since I have a couple sets of 3.5's
that seat No just a place to put it..
handle bars... I don't like them so maybe drag bars and 8 inch risers
rear fender is welded on but may change it out?


needs rear brake maybe one from a softail and probably can't use that axle since it is a front one just using it until I get the correct one.
still need rocker shafts, S&S intake and air cleaner for an "E" a pinion gear and a lifter
I bought a set of Sifton lifters and lifter blocks but one crashed, destroyed the front block and one lifter and an Andrews "6" cam .
messed up deal! I had them in my 68 and didn't notice the lifter roller was just able to go to far down and came out of the guide in the lifter block. Dunno if the cam was ground on a smaller center or what? {Andrews Cam}
I got some rollers but they are put together different that OEM Harley. The sifton's use the pin as the race for the rollers. the Harley has the pin a race, needle bearing and the roller.

 

sifton is the junk china garbage today tiwan tedd ( V Twin ) bought toms name to use and he is draging it in the mud -- put the crap on e blows and sell it --

if someone built a stroker and was good at it than the valve springs are very strong and good parts will be needed for it to be dependable --

 

yes that explains it. the price for the Sifton kit was to good to be true.
I have noticed several of the Sifton rear lifter blocks on ebay... figure I am not to only one who had the same issue with the front block.
The ware on the Sifton lifters were pretty significant with only a few hours of running time. The Jim's kits are 600 to 700 $ depending on which kit, are they any better than the Sifton if they were bought by Tedd?

 

I will be welding these mount on the frame for the gas tanks

I have been planning on using these pipe which were left over from my 68 but after installing them again and fitting them I said wait a minute Dumb S#$T besides the front one fitting for crap due to the delkron cases I'd guess, I need a later front pipe. I don't need that stinking "S" pipe.. I was wanting to use those pipes since I had them but not now..



now I have a set of pipes and that seat to find a new home for.
I have the inner primary drive parts and a starter on the way {dunno what I'd do without eBay} and $300 parts from Tedd.. seat drag bars and risers and a few other small parts. sure adds up fast.

 

the squish pipe looks kind of cool but it will over heat the front cylinder causing the piston to score

drag specialties has an old book and the stuff is also china but much better quality - dont use anything from tedds cycle V twin it is all the seconds and thirds if you can believe what a third is -- jz

 

I forgot all about Drag Specialties I will get a catalog coming.
The parts from the V are on the way, since I have been a V twin dealer for close to 20 years I will probably still use them. Just have to be selective what to buy, they do offer US made parts some even OEM. The tank mounts are from Tedd looks to be fine parts to me.
They are pretty good about returns if the parts are not good. Will have to wait and see what the parts look like I am getting this time, I ordered them Monday so should get them by Friday.
I lucked out on the speedo, mount and bezel a friend just got a pile of parts and after I told him what I was building he gave me them. I still may get a cats eye cover later on.
Thanks for the Reply

 

Couldn't find where to get a Drag Specialties Catalog from there website, I am not surprised when I talked with V twin she said the are not doing catalogs every year to use the web site or the CD. I just like looking at a Catalog.
got some new parts! I almost forgot how much fun it is building a bike fun stuff.


I Like the drag bars and risers much better


the oil bag mount softail to the swing arm seat post fit nice.
the chain seems to line right up as well, sure didn't need to get 130 links


the risers have hidden bolts, I wasn't sure how it was done until I got the parts. a set screw hold the cap on.


hope there are no snags with the title from DMV could be riding this in a few weeks.

 

cut off the flat fender and am planning on using this one for the rear.
got the correct clutch hub and all the parts to complete the primary drive for the 97 5 speed.
I did discover the later starter jack shaft has a smaller diameter coupler which fits in the inner primary due to the difference in the ring / pinion starter gear tooth count. I was able to machine a bushing down to fit the later jack shaft. left the original bushing in the early primary and pressed the machined bushing inside the existing bushing with a few drops of locktite. the seal was also to large but simple used the later seal and with some sealer glued it inside the existing seal. Everything lines up just fine but after doing this I found a later inner primary for not a lot of $$ so will swap out the primary.
not having a lot of luck finding a rear axle narrow enough for the rigid rear so may need to make a custom one or cut one down.

 

sweet - it does get pricy when missing so much

 

yes it does $$ oh well what Harley don't cost?
here is a question for anyone with some rigid frame experience or just your 2 cents..
looking at the image below I have a string stretched down the frame from the neck to the rear axle. for a datum line {sort of} as you can see the seat post is high or both both ends low how ever you want to look at it. my question is should this be a straight line front to the rear? this frame was in a serious wreck so my guess is it is still bent. but not knowing how the frame should look to begin with has be guessing. The frame was a swing arm with a rigid rear section welded on.
I am thinking I may fasten the frame down and push the rear section up just enough to see if it looks any better. also the rear trans plate is indicating that it is down about 1/4 inch. Could also be the rear section wasn't welded on correctly?
Thanks for any input.